• Welcome to Ecoboost Performance Forum. Please log in or sign up.
collapse

Rx Monster Catch Can on XSport 2.0 - No Drill (Almost)

Started by MiWiAu, September 14, 2016, 09:40:02 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

MiWiAu

I also wanted to mention that I gave both of these a "sniff test", and the left bottle smelled much more strongly of fuel, while the right sample smelled more like oil with a hint of fuel.

I think it's worth noting that the left bottle contains multiple drains, one of which was after having a stuck fuel injector.

Since oil and fuel have a lower specific gravity than water, they will separate out to the top, while the water will be at the bottom. Notice the huge amount of water on the right sample.

Based on the info above, I can infer that:
1) the increased fuel content in the left bottle was likely due to the injector failure, because

2) the right sample appears to have significantly less fuel content (indicating the issue did not persist after injector replacement)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2013 XSport

SHOdded

Great info, thanks for sharing :thumb:  Little to no fuel smell in the latter sample is very encouraging.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

MiWiAu

Quote from: SHOdded on December 21, 2016, 10:19:17 PM
Great info, thanks for sharing :thumb:  Little to no fuel smell in the latter sample is very encouraging.

Definitely moving in the right direction. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2013 XSport

jbrown9999

So, based on this, I'm thinking this should be one of my early investments before using tune and getting higher boosts?  I tend to be a long time car owner.  Is there a "cream of the crop" I should be looking at for cans?
2016 Ford SHO w/ PP w/ SCT X4 w/ Gearhead tune,
MDesign CAI, non-noise maker pipe
Gapped/colder plugs, Thermostat w/ Water Wetter
MSD COPS, aFe Silver Bullet intake spacer
UPR catch can, BOV to atmosphere mod

MiWiAu

Quote from: jbrown9999 on December 22, 2016, 12:02:23 AM
So, based on this, I'm thinking this should be one of my early investments before using tune and getting higher boosts?  I tend to be a long time car owner.  Is there a "cream of the crop" I should be looking at for cans?

It certainly couldn't hurt. This was the first thing I did to mine (after floor mats, LOL). IMO, once you start cranking up the boost with tunes, there is potential to further exacerbate the issue of oil in the intake/charge pipes.

I'm sure you'll find LOTS of opinions on particular cans. I've only got personal experience with the Rx, and can't speak to the others. The Rx comes at a more "premium" price point for sure, but I can't with certainty say that it's better than any others. I can say that if I were to do it over again, I would make the same decision and buy the Rx Monster can again, simply because it seems to be working well for me, in my application.

If you decide to go the route of Rx, note that teamrxp.com still sells the "original" TIG welded Rx can (which is what I bought). McNally also offers a can, of similar design at a slightly lower price point, but I can't comment on build quality or efficacy, as I've never seen/used one. I have the impression that the functional concept between the two are very similar, if not identical.
2013 XSport

SHOdded

I thought I read elsewhere on the forum that the UPR setup is also a good one, and there are people running the JLT kit as well, hope they chime in.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

MiWiAu

#21
Quote from: SHOdded on December 22, 2016, 04:54:04 PM
I thought I read elsewhere on the forum that the UPR setup is also a good one, and there are people running the JLT kit as well, hope they chime in.

+1. And as long as the can has a good coalescing material inside of it (and some sort of baffle to keep the liquid in the can from re-entering the intake), with a few extra parts, you should be able to make some minor modifications to the plumbing for a single inlet/single outlet can to allow it to pull vacuum either while under boost or at cruise speed, that way you are constantly evacuating vapors from the dirty side.
2013 XSport

glock-coma

Here's a lineup of all my drains over the past 5k miles.
Most recent about 200 miles ago on the far left.

2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

glock-coma

Now you can see why people have so much build up at the bottom of the CAC
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

207

Sorry to revive an old thread but, seeing that Photobucket is holding everyone's pictures for ransom obviously the photos of the install do not appear any longer.  And I've had no luck searching the web.

I have the can installed on my 2016 Explorer Sport and all of the lines run to approximate attachment points. I installed the can in the D/S fender well without removing the front fascia. I did it from underneath by removing 3 bolts on the plastic splash panel and used a bungee cord to hold it out of the way to gain access.

Anyway, I have the following questions..

1. At what points is everyone "tapping into" to obtain the vacuum from the turbos on the XSport?

2. The aluminum adapter required for the late model Explorers.. Where exactly does it go?? I've searched the web for hours and could find no useful image / information.

3. On the tube that runs from the front valve cover near the oil fill (and gets capped off) to the turbo tube near the air cleaner has an electrical sensor tapped into it. What happens with that sensor, is it deleted?

If the pictures were still in this thread I probably wouldn't be asking this.
Thanks in advance
2016 Ford Explorer Sport
2003 Ford Harley Davidson SuperCrew

ZSHO



2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

MiWiAu

Quote from: 207 on August 08, 2017, 07:28:33 PM
Sorry to revive an old thread but, seeing that Photobucket is holding everyone's pictures for ransom obviously the photos of the install do not appear any longer.  And I've had no luck searching the web.

If the pictures were still in this thread I probably wouldn't be asking this.
Thanks in advance

STOOPID FOTOBUCKET!

I'll see if I can get my images hosed elsewhere and update the pictures this weekend.

I have a bunch of other threads that need updated, too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2013 XSport

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

MiWiAu

Quote from: SHOdded on August 08, 2017, 07:47:24 PM
Thanks, Mike!  New baby keeping u busy?

That would be an understatement. LOL

Busy and awake. :)

Although, now that I'm not trolling and thread jacking with my inappropriate commentary, I bet y'all are getting a lot more done around here. ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2013 XSport

MiWiAu

Quote from: 207 on August 08, 2017, 07:28:33 PM
Sorry to revive an old thread but, seeing that Photobucket is holding everyone's pictures for ransom obviously the photos of the install do not appear any longer.  And I've had no luck searching the web.

I have the can installed on my 2016 Explorer Sport and all of the lines run to approximate attachment points. I installed the can in the D/S fender well without removing the front fascia. I did it from underneath by removing 3 bolts on the plastic splash panel and used a bungee cord to hold it out of the way to gain access.

Anyway, I have the following questions..

1. At what points is everyone "tapping into" to obtain the vacuum from the turbos on the XSport?

2. The aluminum adapter required for the late model Explorers.. Where exactly does it go?? I've searched the web for hours and could find no useful image / information.

3. On the tube that runs from the front valve cover near the oil fill (and gets capped off) to the turbo tube near the air cleaner has an electrical sensor tapped into it. What happens with that sensor, is it deleted?

If the pictures were still in this thread I probably wouldn't be asking this.
Thanks in advance

In lieu of pictures, here are a couple of answers:

1) I used the rear BOV port on the charge pipe (VTA on rear BOV required) and the quick connection on the front charge pipe (same connection where tube you reference in question 3 terminates). If you VTA the front BOV, you could also use that larger 1" port instead of capping.

2) I'm not sure to which adapter you are referring. Are you talking about the mounting brackets? Do you have a picture you could attach?

3) Hopefully one of ZSHO's links addresses this. My '13 did not have the sensor; it was added later. I recall reading about it on this forum but don't remember the solution off hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2013 XSport