K&N vs OEM air filter testing

[FoMoCoSHO]

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

[hawkeye93]

Interesting.  But the article states that "The stock filter will flow MORE THAN ENOUGH AIR to give you ALL THE HORSEPOWER the engine has to give," and then goes on to test the filters at a measly 350 CFM.  For a 3.5 EB, you're going to want more like 1000 CFM.

[FoMoCoSHO]

Interesting.  But the article states that "The stock filter will flow MORE THAN ENOUGH AIR to give you ALL THE HORSEPOWER the engine has to give," and then goes on to test the filters at a measly 350 CFM.  For a 3.5 EB, you're going to want more like 1000 CFM.

Right but now apply that to dirt ingestion, wouldn't that make the filtration part even worse?

[hawkeye93]

Right but now apply that to dirt ingestion, wouldn't that make the filtration part even worse?

Of course.  I don't dispute the filtration aspects of the article.  But my point is that an OEM/replacement filter MIGHT NOT flow enough for the engine, especially a modified one.  This article states that they do, but they didn't test them with enough flow.  Maybe 350 CFM is enough for a little Nissan motor, but it's not enough for my EcoBoost.  Most of us here are interested in getting more out of our cars than the conservative manufacturers release it with.  You're always going to get some dirt, you just have to decide how much is too much.  Most of it will go out the exhaust anyway.

FWIW, I don't use a K&N filter.  I use an AEM.

[sholxgt]

Well said hawkeye!  In short, a solid piece of metal will allow zero dirt to flow through it...or any air.  No filter will allow 100% dirt and 100% air.

Between those two things is a sliding scale between dirt trapping and air flow.  Paper filters trap more dirt than gauze type filters at the expense of also flowing less air.

Given enough underhood space, it's hard to beat a giant paper filter with tons of surface area.  If you're working within the confines of the stock airbox and want more flow, there's not much you can do except switch to a gauze style filter of your choice and accept that it's going to pass more dirt.

Generally speaking, the worst option is to switch to a small gauze filter.  Those that remove their airbox and install a small K&N type cone filter have gone two steps back.

[AnotherGreenFusion]

Used oil filters for years and can attest to the extra dirt getting sucked in even when properly oiled, after enough time youll notice a fine layer of dirt accumulating inside the intake piping and this was on a v6 NA pushrod.


For the EB I tried to split the difference going for a paper style cone filter to maximize surface area and filtration.

[FoMoCoSHO]

Right but now apply that to dirt ingestion, wouldn't that make the filtration part even worse?

Of course.  I don't dispute the filtration aspects of the article.  But my point is that an OEM/replacement filter MIGHT NOT flow enough for the engine, especially a modified one.  This article states that they do, but they didn't test them with enough flow.  Maybe 350 CFM is enough for a little Nissan motor, but it's not enough for my EcoBoost.  Most of us here are interested in getting more out of our cars than the conservative manufacturers release it with.  You're always going to get some dirt, you just have to decide how much is too much.  Most of it will go out the exhaust anyway.

FWIW, I don't use a K&N filter.  I use an AEM.

Depending on the year the Duramax platform used for the test puts down 500-765 lb ft of torque.

If paper flows enough for the Duramax I'm not concerned with flow on the Ecoboost.

The difference in initial flow is .06 PSI.

My tune is hotter than AJP's which put down 527 wtq and I'm definitely putting the paper filter back in. I suspect there will be no discernible difference in butt dyno or data log. If I can make it to the track Thursday we will have some numbers to compare.

I was reading on Bitog last night and someone commented that all it takes is 1 tsp of dirt to kill an engine.

Right or wrong that gave me pause and I'm going to do a little investigating.

There is a whole section on the Bitog forums regarding air filtration if anybody wants to look into the matter further.

[slurppie]

Not EB but interesting read, http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/978615-cfm-question.html

sent from my speak n' spell using tin cans and string

[SHOdded]

Dirt = good for children.  Dirt = BAAAADDDDD for engines.

[SHOdded]

Looking back over my datalogs, I used up about 150 cfm of air under moderate-heavy acceleration getting up to 55 from a standing start.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/4496-500-hp-na-chevrolet-lt1-engine/

[FoMoCoSHO]

http://www.r2cperformance.com/products/engine_air_filter_testing.aspx

[SHOdded]

Wonder if we should just start putting in MERV 13 filters LOL!  Do you think Ford/factory filters are any different from the Motorcraft counterparts?  Some say there's a difference in the number of pleats & hence filtering, for example.

[slurppie]

I swapped out my K&N for a Green filter which seems to fit better and has larger pleats. http://www.greenfilterusa.com



sent from my speak n' spell using tin cans and string

[ZSHO]

Here is a good video from Mackuloko.  Z  [url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NJKlb61_kXU#]! No longer available]! No longer available

[Wardog692]

I swapped out my K&N for a Green filter which seems to fit better and has larger pleats. http://www.greenfilterusa.com



sent from my speak n' spell using tin cans and string

Slurppie, your sig and your "sent from" message had me chuckling pretty hard at work! But I've also heard great things about Green filters, I've got a buddy of mine who swears by them, and I trust his judgement.