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2010 SHO - no AC drivers side

Started by 04goat, July 18, 2016, 05:59:54 PM

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04goat

Hi all,

Thought I had low refrigerant, but after putting my system on full blast I realize it's just the driver side not getting any ac. Seems to be pulling Air from outside. 

I just unplugged the battery , hoping that would reset the blend door actuator. But no dice. I had the opposite issue with no passenger side heat and this resolved it immediately.

My question is before I go buying parts just because, is there a drivers side blend door?  Where is it located?  Also could it be a bad recirculation door?

I searched, but could only find the no passenger heat topic.  Which as I mentioned is the opposite of what I have going on.
Toys: 2004 M6 Barbados Blue GTO w/mods - Sold
1937 Ford stake truck  My great grandfathers truck

Drivers: 2012 Acura TSX Special Edition
2010 SHO, 402b, contour seats, nav, & 20's

glock-coma

Drivers side actuator is much harder to get to than the passenger side but it's still doable.
Do you hear any clicking when any adjustments are made? Does the ac come out any vents at all?
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

SHOdded

#2
There are indeed 2 actuators, the procedure for the drivers side unit is attached:

Temperature Blend Door Actuator — LH

Item  Part Number  Description 
1  W701696  LH temperature blend door actuator screw (2 required) 
2  —  LH temperature blend door actuator electrical connector (part of 14401) 
3  19E616  LH temperature blend door actuator 

Removal and Installation

NOTE: The LH temperature blend door actuator can be accessed from below the LH side of the instrument panel.

Remove the 2 LH temperature blend door actuator screws.
Disconnect the LH temperature blend door actuator electrical connector.
Remove the LH temperature blend door actuator.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
NOTE: The purpose of the module actuator position calibration is to allow the HVAC module to reinitialize and calibrate the actuator stop points. To carry out calibration, carry out the following steps.

Remove Smart Junction Box (SJB) fuse 15 for at least one minute.
NOTE: When the ignition switch is switched to the ON position, the HVAC module will initialize and calibrate the actuators. Calibration of the actuators will take approximately 30 seconds.

Reinstall SJB fuse 15. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait 30 seconds before verifying correct LH temperature blend door operation.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

04goat

#3
So after thinking it was beyond the simple recharge. I left both terminals off for about an hour and a half. No difference.

Decided to try the recharge. Took a whole can, still not in the OK zone on the cheap-o gauge, but both sides are now blowing much colder than ever before.  So with low refrigerant one side would remain cool, and the other was ambient. Strange...

Lesson learned = charge before posting. Still puzzled how a charge affected half of the car and not the entire AC.
Toys: 2004 M6 Barbados Blue GTO w/mods - Sold
1937 Ford stake truck  My great grandfathers truck

Drivers: 2012 Acura TSX Special Edition
2010 SHO, 402b, contour seats, nav, & 20's

SHOdded

Def weird.  But as long as it's working, hey ...  :thumb:  I prefer to leave refrigerant charging issues to the pros ...
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

ZSHO

#5
It could be that one of the "Lines"are clogged up.....probably be a good time to have an  a/c evacuation performed if the issue still persists and also have your cabin air filter changed if not done so already it might help a bit....hows your temp gauge? and best of luck to ya.  Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

Blackhawk

My 2011 just started doing the same thing.  I eventually get a bit of cold air on the driver side but it takes 10 mins and it still is not as cold as the passenger side.  I'll try throwing some refrigerant in tomorrow.  There is kinda like a weird pssh sound every 10-20 seconds, it's sound like it's from the dash but maybe it's my compressor cycling.

KonaTheWhale

Wifes car(Ford Focus) had the same pshh sound every 10-20 seconds and was hardly blowing any cold air, got the a/c EVAC and recharge done and issue was fixed. Essentially there is seal somewhere in the system that is letting in moisture and letting out freon, so if the leak is small enough it may take years for that issue to arise again
2011 Ford Taurus SHO non PP Kona blue, Livernois 93 octane 3 bar tune, PPE catless downpipes, muffler delete, 160* stat, K&N drop in filter, VTA mod, rear end lowered, 15% tint, EBC brake upgrade

04goat

Quote from: KonaTheWhale on July 25, 2016, 08:26:40 AM
Wifes car(Ford Focus) had the same pshh sound every 10-20 seconds and was hardly blowing any cold air, got the a/c EVAC and recharge done and issue was fixed. Essentially there is seal somewhere in the system that is letting in moisture and letting out freon, so if the leak is small enough it may take years for that issue to arise again

The other added benefit of adding refrigerant was cooled seats.  I never thought they actually did anything until re-charging the system, now it's like sitting on a block of ice. 
Toys: 2004 M6 Barbados Blue GTO w/mods - Sold
1937 Ford stake truck  My great grandfathers truck

Drivers: 2012 Acura TSX Special Edition
2010 SHO, 402b, contour seats, nav, & 20's

Blackhawk

I thought the seats had their own heating and cooling elements built in, maybe I mis-read that somewhere.
Quote from: 04goat on July 25, 2016, 09:16:27 AM
Quote from: KonaTheWhale on July 25, 2016, 08:26:40 AM
Wifes car(Ford Focus) had the same pshh sound every 10-20 seconds and was hardly blowing any cold air, got the a/c EVAC and recharge done and issue was fixed. Essentially there is seal somewhere in the system that is letting in moisture and letting out freon, so if the leak is small enough it may take years for that issue to arise again

The other added benefit of adding refrigerant was cooled seats.  I never thought they actually did anything until re-charging the system, now it's like sitting on a block of ice.

glock-coma

Quote from: Blackhawk on July 25, 2016, 02:37:22 PM
I thought the seats had their own heating and cooling elements built in, maybe I mis-read that somewhere.
Quote from: 04goat on July 25, 2016, 09:16:27 AM
Quote from: KonaTheWhale on July 25, 2016, 08:26:40 AM
Wifes car(Ford Focus) had the same pshh sound every 10-20 seconds and was hardly blowing any cold air, got the a/c EVAC and recharge done and issue was fixed. Essentially there is seal somewhere in the system that is letting in moisture and letting out freon, so if the leak is small enough it may take years for that issue to arise again

The other added benefit of adding refrigerant was cooled seats.  I never thought they actually did anything until re-charging the system, now it's like sitting on a block of ice.

You are correct newer fords do not use the engine ac compressor for the seats.
It uses something called a peltier module or thermoelectric module.

http://www.marlow.com/resources/general-faq/6-how-do-thermoelectric-coolers-tecs-work.html
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

Blackhawk

I just dumped 2 cans in and it is significantly colder. I lost ac over the course off two weeks so there is probably a leak somewhere.  Anyone know if esp covers the ac system?


Quote from: Blackhawk on July 24, 2016, 09:35:58 PM
My 2011 just started doing the same thing.  I eventually get a bit of cold air on the driver side but it takes 10 mins and it still is not as cold as the passenger side.  I'll try throwing some refrigerant in tomorrow.  There is kinda like a weird pssh sound every 10-20 seconds, it's sound like it's from the dash but maybe it's my compressor cycling.

SHOdded

#12
Might be out of date, but this is the comparison I use:
http://www.factoryplans.com/assets/cms/files/brochure_FordESPPlanOptions.pdf

Starting with the BaseCARE level:

• A/C Clutch
• A/C Clutch Bearings
• A/C Compressor
• A/C Compressor Clutch Switch
• A/C Compressor Head
• A/C Compressor Seals
• A/C Condenser
• A/C Evaporator
• A/C Fluid Coil
• A/C Pulley

PremiumCARE adds:
• A/C Accumulator
• A/C Actuator
• A/C Compressor Assembly
• A/C Control Head
• A/C Line Assembly
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

L1gerZero

Mine had the same issue, i noticed the drivers side was kinda cool but not really and the passenger seemed almost normal. Took it in and they said it was almost empty and replaced a leaking condenser. Fixed everything right up. Idk how they have it set up but its interesting that one side can go out before the other.
2017 Lincoln MKZ Black Label 3.0 AWD

SHOdded

Yeah almost like it's computer logic behind it ...
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!