I actually seem to be having a similar problem to you Dalum. I bought a set of the new Amber/Amber tritons and have tried installing them. I tried messing around with the car off and accessories on. Without the internal resistor active, they work fine either with the lights off, or parking lights on. But the second I turn on the headlights, the rear goes into hyperflash and the front turns solid amber. So I activated the internal resistor and then all works just fine with the engine off and sitting in the garage. But when I turn on the engine and either let it sit, or start driving around, I get hyperflashing again. I can half get around it, which I think you pointed to earlier, by canceling the turn signal and the activating it quickly again and it works fine. But then after not being active for a 15 seconds or so, then using the turn signals, they hyperflash again. Make any sense?
In talking with Jake over there today he suggested to me installing the 25 Ohm/25W Ford DRL in-line resistor they have. I thought I'd give it a try for $20 with him saying if it doesn't work they are 100% willing to take stuff back since it is just a compatibility issue.
And I don't know if any of you can point me somewhere, or give me some guidance.
I am looking into adding the 50% reduction wire into my system but I am a real novice at much of anything electrical, (me being a mechanical engineer, I don't do well with electricity
) and really have no idea where to look for the positive wire for the headlights. I tried looking in from the top and couldn't make out much of anything. Any help on how to do this would be greatly appreciated.
On a side note, Jake mentioned that I'm the first person he has heard of installing these Amber/Amber Tritons in a Taurus which would be kind of neat.
