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Changing/Replacing D3S HID factory oem bulbs in the 2013 SHO

Started by shweetpickens, June 29, 2016, 10:55:53 AM

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shweetpickens

****small update with pics a few posts down

So heres what ive learned after changing out the D3S hid bulbs in my car (2013 SHO), and I hope this helps someone.  I really could not find this description anywhere on any forum.  Im starting a new post for this so that it is easier to find in a search.  Sorry I didn't do pics.  Popular opinion is that you have to remove the wheels, fender liners, front bumper, and headlight housings BEFORE removing and replacing the bulbs.  If that sounds like fun to you then go for it, but I decided to try my luck at skipping all of that! 

This may depend on your hand size.  I am tall and thin and my hands are neither large nor small.  Sausage fingers may have trouble! 

Essential tools:
1. Precision "hook" tool like the one here
https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Gasket-Puller-Remover-Scribe/dp/B00UYFQYJM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467208868&sr=8-3&keywords=tools+mini+hook

2. Vise grip adjustable "needle nose" pliers like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Locking-Original-1602L3/dp/B0000BYD9A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467209036&sr=8-2&keywords=vise+grip+needle+nose

3. also helpful but not absolutely essential: longer needle nose angled pliers like these
https://www.amazon.com/ToolUSA-Bent-Nose-Plier-Degree/dp/B00VUFXHC2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1467209069&sr=8-4&keywords=needle+nose+long+angle

4: Latex rubber gloves with some grippy stuff on the hands was very helpful

5. A good light to set in engine bay so you dont have to hold it!!

DRIVERS SIDE:  Remove entire airbox - takes like 60 seconds.  Remove cover to fuse box (helps with room).  I used a pretty bright LED worklight that I set on the engine facing my headlight.  A rubber dust cover pops right off of the back of the headlight (easy).  Now the hard part: this simple task took me 30 minutes roughly.  You have to unplug the bulb and also twist the bulb out.  You cannot twist it out, remove, and THEN unplug it because the plug prevents you from pulling it all the way out.  Also I could barely get my fingers around it and felt like I was gonna break my fingers trying to twist the bulb out.  I opened up my needle nose vise grips all the way and used them to leverage it out (untwisted the bulb partially with them wide open).  MAKE EVERY EFFORT TO ENSURE YOU PULL THE PLUG STRAIGHT OUT AND PLUG IT BACK IN STRAIGHT AS WELL. 

I chose to untwist it counterclockwise 1/4 turn to put the plug into an easier to reach position.  I used several different methods to unplug the plug.  Dont put too much force into the plug or you can break it and be screwed.  Every effort I put into it was short "tugs" and pulls.  I used needle nosed vise grips and also regular small vise grips to BARELY grip closed around the plug and sort of wiggle and work it downward to separate it from the bulb.  Dont be discouraged if initial efforts dont seem to work.  It takes time and consistent tugging to eventually free it.  The outer metal part of the plug got bent an separated from the inner plug slightly, and this is OK.  The inner green plastic plug part is still intact so its all good.  One maneuver that worked best was snapping the vise grip closed on the plug (barely), then pull the vise grip handle up so it is leveraging against the back of the bulb and pushing down on the plug at the same time if that makes sense. This can bend the plug if done incorrectly.  Another method was closing the grips around the plug and then using a long pry bar to push down gently on the vise grips so that it unplugs straight down and not crooked so as to bend the plug.

When plug is out then slide bulb out.  Make sure the new  bulb is not touched!  Any fingerprints or grease can ruin the bulb when hot.  When removing the plug from the old bulb I allowed the bulb to jiggle all around the inside of the housing as I was "working it".  I would not take that risk with the new one, so the first thing I did was carefully slide the new one in and click it clockwise in place. 

Now the hard part once again (stupid plug).  Unless you weigh 50 lbs your fingers will likely barely be able to touch the plug, much less plug it in with those fingers.  I used my fingers to line the plug up to the plug in on the light.  I could not line it up perfect, and it will NOT go in unless lined up perfect.  Heres where the right tool saved my butt.  I used the mini hook like listed above.  The plug consists of a medium sized wire and plug on the end sorta like an hdmi cable but smaller.  While the plug was mostly lined up I reached the hook in and hooked it UNDER the "plug" but AROUND the wire part of the plug.  After, I simply pulled the plug up and into the bulb with my hook.  Wow I cant believe it was that easy! Reverse steps to put everything back together and dont forget the dust cap.

PASSENGERS SIDE: Very similar, but some minor differences.  This side was harder to reach but easier than it could have been based on experience from the drivers side.  All I could really move to access it was to bend the washer fluid fill pipe over and wedge it under a turbo pipe.  The only other difference was that there is an even smaller space to work the plug out, but its still workable.  Now when you untwist the bulb it doesnt really give you more room to unplug the plug this time.  I decided to partially untwist it and use my same vise grip/ needle nose technique to remove the plug from a slightly better angle.  I believe I had to still put hand pressure on the back of the bulb while unplugging the plug to provide stability.  I also messed up the metal surround on the plug but it did not affect the plug itself.  I also used the same hook to line it up the plug when inserting it into the new bulb (after the bulb was clicked into place).  With new bulb in make sure to put the dust cap back on and put the washer fluid tube back where it was.  DONE with zero bumper removal!!!!!

I know this may be a little too descriptive, but I'm a details guy = )  It seems like alot of work but it took me around 1.5 hours.  Now that I know how to do it I bet I could do both sides in under 1 hour.  Trust me this is much easier than removing half your car to get a stupid bulb out!

sholxgt

Thanks for the alternative!

Curious...did your original bulbs go out?  If so, at what mileage?  Wondering how long they typically last.
Current - 2019 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5 EB
Formerly -2013 MKS Ecoboost Premium
PPE Catted DP's, 170 Reische TS, K&N Drop In, AJP Tune only at track - 12.87@106

shweetpickens

Quote from: sholxgt on June 29, 2016, 12:30:12 PM
Thanks for the alternative!

Curious...did your original bulbs go out?  If so, at what mileage?  Wondering how long they typically last.

I was amazed that my drivers side started going out at 39k.  It would shut off after a few seconds on, and it looked to be a more purplish color vs the good light.  I used to have an acura TL and didnt need new bulbs for the 1st 100k..

SHOdded

Well written HOWTO!  Did you note who manufactured the OEM bulb?  Usually best to stick to Philips or Osram for longevity.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

shweetpickens

#4
Quote from: SHOdded on June 29, 2016, 01:43:25 PM
Well written HOWTO!  Did you note who manufactured the OEM bulb?  Usually best to stick to Philips or Osram for longevity.

OEM was OSRAM.  Heard great things about theretrofitsource.com which has osram bulbs for $200 a pair.  The also have morimoto bulbs for $70 a pair.  Ive heard good things about both.  Ive heard there is better visibility from the OSRAM of course, but I took my chances with the morimoto.  So far I like them.

pmezo33

Just did this job about a week ago because my driver side bulb kept going on and off.  Nice write up!  This really could have saved me some time.

These are the bulbs I went with.  They're definitely a nice upgrade from the stock osrams.  I highly recommend them.

http://www.hidconcept.com/d3s-philips-x-tremevision-42403xvc1-hid-50-bulbs/

shweetpickens

I heard good reviews about those too.  Thanks for the link

SHOdded

Plus there's a JULY4TH coupon code sale on right now, 15% off + free US shipping over $20!  Great time to get any lighting from them.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

shweetpickens

UPDATE

Heres a small update.  I had a bad bulb after 2 months so I decided to post some more details about the install with pics.  I decided to go with some better bulbs to hopefully eliminate the need to replace them again!  I went with theretrofitsource.com since they are an authorized supplier and decided on the OSRAM xenarc cbi bulbs which look great so far. 

I will try and put the pics in order.

DRIVERS SIDE 
This time I mainly used long needle nosed angled pliers, rubber gloves, and a tiny hook which I extended by gripping the end with vise grips to give me more length.  I also turned a coat hanger into a tiny hook on one end which I will explain later.

I managed to get everything done without removing the airbox.  I only removed the top of the fuse box and obviously the cap over the headlight.  This time I had to use the long needle nose pliers to unscrew the bulb slightly before using my hand for the rest on the drivers side.  The passengers side was easier to untwist by hand.

  The only thing I did a little different this time was the way I plugged the bulbs back in.  I used a combo of my hook/visegrip, long hanger with tiny hook bent on the end, and fingers.  I still had to reach an index finger into the opening around the bulb and use it to line up and ultimately plug the bulb in all the way.  Any other questions just ask.

Vortech347

Matt H.
2013 SHO Performance Pack, Daily, AJPTurbo tuned
2003 SVT Cobra 497rwhp/491rwtq, Self tuned, Cruiser
1990 Mustang GT 570rwhp/530twtq, Self tuned, Open Track
2017 F150 XLT 5.0

shweetpickens


SHOdded

Another take, this time on a 2015 w PP & HID
http://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/need-to-change-headlights-bulbs-on-my-15-sho.134153/#post-1463972
Quote
Greg9933
SHO Member
New
I suppose it's a matter of preference, but I found no need to remove the bumper cover to upgrade the HID bulbs in my 2015 SHO PP.

Drivers side: Remove the air filter box assembly. Remove 2 bolts near the radiator support, disconnect the MAF sensor connector. Loosen the clamp that holds the air intake tube at the rear of the assembly near the battery. Take the air filter element out. Pull up on the assembly, it should pull the mounting pins out and rotate it out of the way, this will give you easy access to the rear of the drivers side lamp assembly. The headlamp access has a large rubber cover over the access point held in place with a large plastic retaining tie, similar to an oversize wire tie. Take this off, beware that it can be a bugger to get back on securely. You should then be able to see the rear of the HID module. WEAR RUBBER GLOVES! Grab the back of the assembly, rotate counter clockwise. You will feel a distinct release of pressure as the assembly rotates out of the lock position, and it's not far, maybe 1/4 turn. Now the trick. As you pull the assembly out, continue to rotate it counter clockwise carefully. I found this will permit the assembly to come cleanly out of the housing. Release the wiring harness connector, take the module out. Reverse process with your new module. Be careful of the locking assembly on the wiring harness connector - it will break easily.

Passenger side: A little more space challenged, but doable. Again, GLOVE UP. With the engine cold, I was able to reach into the area behind the p/s side assembly between the washer bottle fill and an adjoining structure of the car. Work the rubber cover loose, and then the same unlock and rotate out on the module. You should be able to carefully get the wiring assembly far enough out of the housing to remove the old module and install the new one. I know 2011Taurussel removed the air tube right there when he did his, I didn't find that necessary, but that would offer a lot more room to maneuver. I'm sure he would step up with how he did it, I can give him a nudge to check in on the board if you would like.

All worked well post procedure, and continues to do so.

Greg9933
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Code AiR

Okay maybe I am missing something. I removed my bumper and headlights last night. I replaced my passenger side with a 5k or 6k temp bulb. My passenger side was a ton easier once I figured out I need to turn the green retaining clip with the bulb. My driver side doesn't look like my passenger side. There is no green plastic clip. I tried for 45 minutes to remove my driver side bulb with no luck. I used needle nose pliers with no luck. I stopped after I heard a small crunch. I assume from what I have read I just do a counterclock turn on the driver side bulb? Nothing else is required?
Ignorance is curable (with knowledge), stupidity is not.