MIL Flashing, P0087, P0301, rough idle, hesitation, fuel smell.

[Deebeaux]

Yes, AOS = Air Oil Separator.

There's no mess near the PCV valve or the AOS, but using my homemade mechanic's stethoscope (vacuum hose and an ear) there is definitely a huge hiss coming from around the quick disconnect connector on the PCV valve, and where the PCV valve meets the AOS. That might just be an o-ring, but the valve is cheap enough to just change.

It's silly it's this stupid quick disconnect with some sort of PTFE or similar seal in it and not just a molded rubber hose with a couple clamps. That'd last decades without leaking.

What should I be looking for in terms of EVAP purge cycle? I haven't checked that valve for failure yet, but I understand it's prone to it. I'll do a check while I'm out there picking up from the last couple day's adventures.

AOS being Air Oil Separator?  Is there any grime or oily mess built up in the area around the PCV valve? 

You may have to clear the codes and try again next time you restart (after the PCV valve replacement).  Then check the EVAP purge cycle and fuel trims.

[SHOdded]

Basically matching up the purge cycle to fuel trims.  Another source/culprit to check if you notice the car running rich.  Not sure how the data shows up for these DI engines, but on my NA Edge, there is a PID called EVAP_PCT that shows you the EVAP cycling in and out.

http://obdcon.sourceforge.net/2010/06/interpreting-generic-obd-ii-scan-data/

EVAP PURGE = EVAP_PCT: This parameter is displayed as a percentage and is normalized for all types of purge systems. EVAP Purge Control commanded OFF will display 0% and EVAP Purge Control commanded fully open will display 100%. This is an important parameter to check if the vehicle is having fuel trim problems. Fuel trim readings may be abnormal, due to normal purge operation. To eliminate EVAP Purge as a potential contributor to a fuel trim problem, block the purge valve inlet to the intake manifold, then recheck fuel trim.

I am just starting to dig into this myself, so there is a learning curve ahead of me

[Gjkrisa]

Basically matching up the purge cycle to fuel trims.  Another source/culprit to check if you notice the car running rich.  Not sure how the data shows up for these DI engines, but on my NA Edge, there is a PID called EVAP_PCT that shows you the EVAP cycling in and out.

http://obdcon.sourceforge.net/2010/06/interpreting-generic-obd-ii-scan-data/
EVAP PURGE = EVAP_PCT: This parameter is displayed as a percentage and is normalized for all types of purge systems. EVAP Purge Control commanded OFF will display 0% and EVAP Purge Control commanded fully open will display 100%. This is an important parameter to check if the vehicle is having fuel trim problems. Fuel trim readings may be abnormal, due to normal purge operation. To eliminate EVAP Purge as a potential contributor to a fuel trim problem, block the purge valve inlet to the intake manifold, then recheck fuel trim.

I am just starting to dig into this myself, so there is a learning curve ahead of me

Wow that's some good well written material!

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[SHOdded]

That link has some more great info

[Gjkrisa]

Yea I was commenting in the link actually

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[Deebeaux]

Excellent link! Once the vacuum leak on the PCV is solved, I'll continue diagnostics. The parts should arrive tomorrow morning and I'll pick them up at lunch. I'm hoping my remaining issue is solved with that or something with EVAP. I don't know if I'm in the mood to pull the intake manifold again.

After doing some research it appears many respectable folks recommend fuel system treatment (BG44K, Techron Concentrate, etc...) at regular intervals to ensure fuel system/injector health. I've searched and read a few posts, but would like to hear folks' comments on that.

Basically matching up the purge cycle to fuel trims.  Another source/culprit to check if you notice the car running rich.  Not sure how the data shows up for these DI engines, but on my NA Edge, there is a PID called EVAP_PCT that shows you the EVAP cycling in and out.

http://obdcon.sourceforge.net/2010/06/interpreting-generic-obd-ii-scan-data/

EVAP PURGE = EVAP_PCT: This parameter is displayed as a percentage and is normalized for all types of purge systems. EVAP Purge Control commanded OFF will display 0% and EVAP Purge Control commanded fully open will display 100%. This is an important parameter to check if the vehicle is having fuel trim problems. Fuel trim readings may be abnormal, due to normal purge operation. To eliminate EVAP Purge as a potential contributor to a fuel trim problem, block the purge valve inlet to the intake manifold, then recheck fuel trim.

I am just starting to dig into this myself, so there is a learning curve ahead of me

[ZSHO]

I have tried many of those fuel system cleaners and certainly the BBK fuel cleaner made especially for Direct injection to be a great product...also the Chevron techron cleaner is a very good fuel system cleaner which is half the price.  Z

[Gjkrisa]

Seafoam is also another great one proof from Chris fix on YouTube
My plane is every 3000 miles intake cleaner and gas additive.

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[Deebeaux]

I'm considering just making fuel system treatment part of my regular maintenance. Maybe every oil change or similar interval. Catch can is definitely coming next and likely meth injection, just enough to keep the intake valves clean. My end game for this car was simply downpipes, a 93 tune, and now the catch can and meth injection. It's my daily and road trip car, but that doesn't mean it can't be fun!

I have tried many of those fuel system cleaners and certainly the BBK cleaner made especially for Direct injection to be a great product...also the Chevron techron is another quality cleaner to good also and much cheaper.  Z

I've used Seafoam in the past and I'm okay with the product they make, but in these cars I'd only even consider an in-tank fuel system treatment. Oil treatments aren't typically recommended/healthy for turbochargers, and induction services are also linked to turbocharger deaths on more than one GTDI engine. Not sure which Seafoam treatment method you're referring to. Glad to see another Chris Fix fan. He's got some excellent videos.

Seafoam is also another great one proof from Chris fix on YouTube

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[Gjkrisa]

Agreed wasn't thinking about oil additive definitely wouldn't want one Ford says there way of helping the back of the vales is using a inductive cleaner.
Because of the fuel additive videos I started watching chris fix the way he went about it was very good. I'm excited for his drift car videos

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[Deebeaux]

Unless something has changed, Ford does not approve of induction services on the Ecoboost. At least according to FordTechMakuloco on this video via his YouTube channel. You can skip to 3:21 to where he talks about induction services.

Agreed wasn't thinking about oil additive definitely wouldn't want one Ford says there way of helping the back of the vales is using a inductive cleaner.
Because of the fuel additive videos I started watching chris fix the way he went about it was very good. I'm excited for his drift car videos

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[SHOdded]

and FordTechMauloco has also recommended used of a good catch can to cut down on the PCV emissions that end up coking the back of the intake valves.  Methanol injection (probably nitrous also) is so far the best way to get a continous cleaning. 

Induction services should be done if at all on a regular basis as a preventive rather than a curative method.  Borescoping before induction service should be used as a verification step.

[Deebeaux]

I'm definitely ordering a catch can in the very near future. Looking at the UPR one. I used to have an account with them years ago, but unsure if I can still get any discounts. Otherwise open to suggestions of recommended catch cans.

Water/Meth seems like an excellent way to keep it clean all the time and not have to worry about needing future induction cleanings. In the VW TDI world, a lot of us run meth injection to keep the build up from clogging the intake nearly 100% with soot. As both are TDI platforms, I can imagine it works just as well in the Ecoboost world. There's also some performance benefits to be had along with continually performing preventative maintenance on your engine. Boosting becomes maintenance! I like this idea.

and FordTechMauloco has also recommended used of a good catch can to cut down on the PCV emissions that end up coking the back of the intake valves.  Methanol injection (probably nitrous also) is so far the best way to get a continous cleaning. 

Induction services should be done if at all on a regular basis as a preventive rather than a curative method.  Borescoping before induction service should be used as a verification step.

[Gjkrisa]

Unless something has changed, Ford does not approve of induction services on the Ecoboost. At least according to FordTechMakuloco on this video via his YouTube channel. You can skip to 3:21 to where he talks about induction services.

Agreed wasn't thinking about oil additive definitely wouldn't want one Ford says there way of helping the back of the vales is using a inductive cleaner.
Because of the fuel additive videos I started watching chris fix the way he went about it was very good. I'm excited for his drift car videos

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Odd I must of hears what I wanted to here I thought in that video he said for was recommending it on service but I'd be doing it before issues.

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[Deebeaux]

I replaced PCV valve and the vent tube connecting valve to the intake manifold with brand new Ford OEM parts. The real kicker is I still hear a hiss when listening with a vacuum hose "stethoscope". It's definitely much less of a leak than before, but it still sounds like a leak to me. My UPR catch can setup is on the way which would eliminate this stupid hose, but I'm not sure why the new OEM hose still appears to leak at vacuum. I suspect it also leaks under boost as well, but it'd take Evil Knievel to test that theory. I'd like to get this issue 100% sorted before changing anything (tune, catch can, meth, etc...)

I took a video of the fuel trims and me rambling on a bit, you can see that here. I apologize for the vertical video, the way I've got the Torque phone propped up fries my brain and I feel like I have to hold my iPhone that way too.

The LTFT1 seems stuck at 10.9% throughout my last few videos. Unsure why. They were both 10.9%, but LTFT2 is now 0.0%. The I let the car idle a bit, but didn't drive it, I still have air in my cooling system that I need to sort out, and I was home on my lunch break. Unsure if it's "safe" to drive. Is there a proper way to reset this besides clearing the codes at idle?

Any chance this could be bad gas as well? Maybe I got a bad tank and it put a unhappy injector into full failure and is causing this mess? I'm hesitant to assume that since my LTFT is only odd on a single bank. Any insight as to what to try next would be greatly appreciated.