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MKS sub with pictures

Started by Scott4957, June 12, 2016, 03:09:53 PM

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Scott4957

Yeah, I wish I had the tools to test and see what the output is. I sent Kevin a PM to see if he could pull the information at work. I will share with the other MKS owners if or when I find the best way to go. TX, i am wondering if maybe you had the polarity wrong when you tapped the other wires but did not get a signal. I mean there would have to be a signal there, from what I have read, if you had the polarity reversed the LC2i would not output any signal.
2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost, AJP Tuned

BiGMaC

#16
Any time I do work on my stereo I use a CD with polarity clicks to check and also one to evaluate phase cancellation. Easy peezy, even though an RTA makes the latter easier to fix.

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

glock-coma

Also the signal should come AFTER the factory amp in the trunk. Some people say that a completely flat signal is obtainable it you get the signal out of the head unit. I have not confirmed this either way. But Im pretty sure you loose all sync functions and volume control if you tap before the amp.
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

Ryan02Stang

Good luck...I have all the parts I need for the install (sub, amp, wires, line out converter, etc.) but haven't gotten around to the install yet.

Hoping this goes easy for you so I can build up the courage to do mine!
2015 Explorer Sport
2012 Lincoln MKS ecoboost, Unleashed
2002 Mustang GT, Vortech Supercharged

Scott4957

Quote from: Ryan02Stang on June 14, 2016, 12:06:21 AM
Good luck...I have all the parts I need for the install (sub, amp, wires, line out converter, etc.) but haven't gotten around to the install yet.

Hoping this goes easy for you so I can build up the courage to do mine!

Excellent. Were you planing on doing a Free Air/IB install or are you using a box? Tell me about your setup.

2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost, AJP Tuned

Ryan02Stang

Quote from: Scott4957 on June 14, 2016, 10:06:56 AM
Excellent. Were you planing on doing a Free Air/IB install or are you using a box? Tell me about your setup.

I have a ported box, that I was using in another car that I'm planning on using in my MKS.

I have a Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 12 inch sub, along with an LC2I 2-channel line out converter.  Amp is a Kenwood KAC-8105D mono amp.

So really all I have to do is get the power wire from the battery to the trunk, and figure out where to install the line out converter.  I've read a bunch of posts on here, and even looked around on my MKS...and honestly, it seems like a pain the the ass!

2015 Explorer Sport
2012 Lincoln MKS ecoboost, Unleashed
2002 Mustang GT, Vortech Supercharged

sholxgt

I had it easy with two cars I've owned.  Not as easy with others.

The Crown Vic Police cars have a power distribution block in the trunk.
The Oldsmobile Aurora's have the battery under the back seat.

I think with the MKS/Taurus we are stuck with running a power cable all the way back.
Current - 2019 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5 EB
Formerly -2013 MKS Ecoboost Premium
PPE Catted DP's, 170 Reische TS, K&N Drop In, AJP Tune only at track - 12.87@106

TX MKS-T

Quote from: Scott4957 on June 13, 2016, 01:05:46 PM
Yeah, I wish I had the tools to test and see what the output is. I sent Kevin a PM to see if he could pull the information at work. I will share with the other MKS owners if or when I find the best way to go. TX, i am wondering if maybe you had the polarity wrong when you tapped the other wires but did not get a signal. I mean there would have to be a signal there, from what I have read, if you had the polarity reversed the LC2i would not output any signal.

Could have because after day 2 of probing wires I was pretty fustrated and threw in the towel. I did get a nice clean signal after the amp on 2 wires but lacked volume control from headunit. Also if it helps the power wire for the LC2i I ended running from the rear power port on middle console assuming the late model has this still like my 2010.





Quote from: sholxgt on June 14, 2016, 05:58:20 PM
I think with the MKS/Taurus we are stuck with running a power cable all the way back.

Yep nothing in the back that could be used for power on my 2010 so ran all the way up front. The frewall is pretty sealed so ended up even though I didnt want to drilling a small hole below the steering shaft and used a rubber groomet and ran wire through followed by sealing around it with silicone. The wire will poke out right behind the firewall heatshield and slightly below brake MC.
2010 MKS-T * K&N Drop In/Power Stop Rotors
2007 Tundra TRD 5.7 - The Toy Hauler
2014 Mitsu Outlander - Kid Hauler

Scott4957

Quote from: TX MKS-T on June 15, 2016, 08:03:23 AM
I ended running from the rear power port on middle console assuming the late model has this still like my 2010.

I am just going to pull the power for the LCi2 off the same run for the amp. With the GTO feature the LCi2 will turn on when it senses audio on the tapped speaker wires and off when it does not. Then you can use this to turn the amp on and off. I'm afraid that was time wasted. Its odd that you got a good signal after the amp but no volume control, I'm inclined to say you likely tapped the signal prior to the amp. Its pretty cut and dry, after the amp, the signal has to rise and fall with the volume knob and the LCi2 working properly has to see that. From my brief look at the amp it was not very clear what was inputs and what was outputs so I can see this getting confusing. As for why some of your taps got you nothing, that's hard to say. Its possible that you tapped a run to a tweeter and the bandpass is in the amp. This would mean the signals going down those wires where too high of a frequency and there was simply nothing in the range of the bandpass filter in the LCi2 to pass to the sub. This is why we need a wiring diagram for the THXII system. I know someone bought the one for the Sony system for 11 bucks, for that much I will just buy it if I can find it. I have a PM out to Kevin to see if he can get it for us but I have not heard back.

2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost, AJP Tuned

sholxgt

Quote from: Scott4957 on June 15, 2016, 09:00:57 AM
Quote from: TX MKS-T on June 15, 2016, 08:03:23 AM
I ended running from the rear power port on middle console assuming the late model has this still like my 2010.

I am just going to pull the power for the LCi2 off the same run for the amp. With the GTO feature the LCi2 will turn on when it senses audio on the tapped speaker wires and off when it does not. Then you can use this to turn the amp on and off. I'm afraid that was time wasted.

Let us know what you find to be the best way to run power from the battery to the trunk.  On other cars I've owned I was able to splice into a factory grommet and run along factory wires.  This car looks to be more sealed up than most.
Current - 2019 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5 EB
Formerly -2013 MKS Ecoboost Premium
PPE Catted DP's, 170 Reische TS, K&N Drop In, AJP Tune only at track - 12.87@106

Scott4957

Quote from: sholxgt on June 15, 2016, 09:38:41 AM
Let us know what you find to be the best way to run power from the battery to the trunk.  On other cars I've owned I was able to splice into a factory grommet and run along factory wires.  This car looks to be more sealed up than most.

I just started this yesterday and it should be a sticky now.

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6330.msg98527.html#msg98527
2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost, AJP Tuned

Scott4957

I have everything mounted. I made a quick mounting plate for the amp and some concentric rings for the 12" Kappa to fit the 10" hole. I also found these wiring diagrams from a pre-2013 MKS THXII system, hoping these are similar. I made the mistake of not checking the sub wiring colors so I will have to pull the sub and reach up in the deck to pull it out and see if it matches these diagrams from the older system.





2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost, AJP Tuned

sholxgt

Looking great!  Find a good source input yet?
Current - 2019 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5 EB
Formerly -2013 MKS Ecoboost Premium
PPE Catted DP's, 170 Reische TS, K&N Drop In, AJP Tune only at track - 12.87@106

Scott4957

Quote from: sholxgt on June 17, 2016, 09:59:49 AM
Looking great!  Find a good source input yet?

If I knew those diagrams where good for the 2013 I would pull from the rear door. I may start by pulling from the sub. I have downloaded a few free apps that will generate low bass frequencies 1hz-200+hz that I can test with to ensure the full range is being passed to this sub which starts at 23hz.
2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost, AJP Tuned

sholxgt

Another strange thought occurred to me...

I wonder if there's a way to disable the Active Noise Control?  Partially because I don't like the idea of the entire concept, but also because I'm wondering what happens if we change the speakers, tap certain lines, etc and leave it enabled. 

The brochure for the MKS says that the system will "channel acoustic adrenaline to you in the form of tuned engine bliss."

We don't have a sound symposium thing on the intake, so that leaves me guessing that it tries to make engine noises through the stereo?

Current - 2019 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5 EB
Formerly -2013 MKS Ecoboost Premium
PPE Catted DP's, 170 Reische TS, K&N Drop In, AJP Tune only at track - 12.87@106