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"How-To" Get Your Lowered SHO Back Into OEM Alignment Specs...

Started by EcoPowerParts, July 14, 2013, 12:54:24 PM

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EcoPowerParts

Originally posted by bpd1151
EDIT- Making this thread a sticky until we have more "How-To" suspension threads, then we will group them into one. Thanks to Mike for the great information!! -Admin


Following the install of my H&R lowering springs, I learned a few things and thought I'd share with the community.

It took a lot of phone calls and emails on my part (more than I care to admit), but I was finally able to locate the availability of a product that will provide rear camber adjustability.

Even though there is a "slot" that in theory is supposed to provide some degree of rear camber adjustability, I (and several others I spoke to who also lowered their SHO's) were NOT able to regain the factory alignment specs without the use of the below listed product(s).

Once purchased and installed, I was successfully able to obtain OEM alignment specs on both rear tires of my lowered, 2010 SHO.

It will not matter which mfg'ers lowering springs you have chosen to use, this will provide you with that adjustability factor regardless.

Now, to start off.....

I ran into a huge, HUGE issue of most alignment places not having the factory alignment specs. Here is a copy of those specs from Hunter Corp...... if you run into this issue yourself, pull up this image and show it to the alignment tech and they should be able to manually "punch in" the numbers into their system.






Following the install of my lowering springs, I was faced with a sever negative camber issue on both rear tires. OEM specs called for a range of: -1.2 to 0.3 degrees. I had a -2.1 in the left rear, and a -2.3 in the right rear. See/Refer to the below images for "before and after" alignment, post spring install.



BEFORE ALIGNMENT SPECS: (H&R lowering springs installed, but NOT the adjustable cam bolt)





AFTER ALIGNMENT SPECS: (springs AND the adjustable cam bolts installed)





Some of you may notice that in the image immediately above, where the alignment sheets shows the numbers AFTER the the lowerings and the adjustable camber bolt were installed, that the left rear shows a -1.6 number in the area listed "before". Which would be different from the original alignment specs sheet posted above...... no fear.

To clarify.... the tech claimed following the initial alignment attempt (post camber bolt install) that he "turned the bolt as much as he could".

When I pointed out to him that the right rear was well within spec, I insisted he give the left rear a second attempt (which he did) and surprise, surprise (well not to me at least) it worked like a charm!

I'll add that he did get a "larger" person who appeared much stronger, to turn the bolt a second time..... :RpS_tongue:


Now, I obtained an adjustable rear camber bolt from the following website:

http://www.spcalignment.com/

The proper part number (which if you call them, they will deny this application works, but as you will see, IT DOES!) is: 81280



Now here's the kicker of it all, when it arrives at your door step, and open the package, you find enclosed along with the two bolts, two nuts that have the washers molded into them. I was told that these supplied nuts are to "tall" in height as it relates to the bolt itself, which is just barely long enough for the nut to grab enough thread.

It was suggested I obtain a nut that can be easily found at any local hardware store (in my case after visiting the large big box places, I ended up finding them at my local ACE Hardware. The nut I used was an M14.

By swapping out the supplied nut/washer combo supplied by SPC, with a shorter one I found at a local hardware store, these parts combined, worked successfully!




Here are couple of pictures of the supplied bolts/nuts from SPC, and the nut purchased afterwards.....





SPC bolt, w/ alternate nut (bottom bolt in this pic), compared side by side to the OEM bolt (top bolt in this pic).





Now a question arose as to which bolt would be being replaced. The answer: swap out the upper spindle bolt from the OEM, to the SPC bolt/nut combo.....






Here are a couple of "post install" pics of the bolt in place, as well as a closer up image of showing the alternate nut seated all the way onto the bolt itself....







So....... as you can all see, by using this combination of parts, etc etc...... the lack of rear camber adjustability from the factory has been resolved!!

What I found ironic was that upon calling Specialty Products, they denied that this product would work. They claimed ideally they (as a company) would prefer to look at the entire suspension set-up (of the 2010+ Taurus / SHO platform) and fab a product, or product(s) that would work harmoniously as a complete package set-up.

Well that's all fine and dandy, however in the interim, knowing I could obtain successful results I still pressed them further. The representative then stated that at best, I would only see a swing of perhaps .4 degrees +/- well like I said, as you can see from the alignment sheet posted above, I was able to achieve a lot more than that.

Oh yea, one last suggestion, throw some Loc-Tite onto those threads before cranking that nut down onto the bolt.

I hope this post is of some use to those of you who've lowered your SHO's :thumb:

-----------------------------------Mike

Comment by EB Bob:
GREAT INFO!


While my alignment guy was able to get my Flex rear alignment to spec. without those bolts (had a set handy), a number of Flex owners have had the same issue when lowering their Bricks.  A Ford engineer poster claimed that this is caused by how the vehicles are built at the factory. He indicated that they are built within a range, and those at the wrong end of that range are harder to align.
Mike B | info@ecopowerparts.com
www.ecopowerparts.com -
please use my website for any price quotes and to submit any orders.
Please email me via info@ecopowerparts.com if you have any questions on new or existing orders, PM's via the forum are hard to track your purchase as I can't relate user name to actual name.
https://www.facebook.com/ecopowerparts

SHOdded

Where to find, and SPC Info:
http://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-Company-81280-Adjuster/dp/B000CB3QUI/
http://www.spcalignment.com/index.php?option=com_spc&task=part_description&pid=81280

Part No. 81280 - Pair For replacement of 16mm bolts

Front Adjustment range: Camber ±1.75°
Installation time: .4 hr/side
Required: 1 kit per axle

SPC Installation Video:
http://youtu.be/ugrwZZbnjn4
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

SHOnUup

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

SHOdded

Absolutely!!!  Thanks again to bpd for this great writeup!
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

SHOnUup

Can't believe ordering directly from their site is that much of a price hike.

Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

SHOdded

Have to keep their distribution network happy, plus allows them to have "specials" :D
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

SHOnUup

Ha, specials...thx again. Bought 2 sets shipped cheaper than 1 set through them.

Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

OmaHahn

I'm going through this headache right now!  Just visited my ACE Hardware and found out there's several M14 style nuts!  There's a Standard 9 quality nut, regular nut, and a hardened nut AND, there's different "pitches!"  The typical pitches are 1.5 and 2.0 - this refers to the size of the thread on the bolt.  Once I get these bolts in the mail on Thursday I'll know what pitch.  I'll update my post with this info.  Lastly, I assume since this is going on the suspension I'm going with the hardened nut.

Thanks SO much for this post!!!!
2014 Silver SHO w/PP.  MODS: LME 93 Tune, 3-Bar Map, 160 Thermostat, MDesign Carbon Fiber CAI, H&R Springs, Cree LED Puddle Lights, LED License Plate Lights, LED DRL's, 20% Window Tint, Debaged trunk & added "3.5 Twin Turbo," & "SHO" emblems.

OmaHahn

Quote from: EcoPowerParts on July 14, 2013, 12:54:24 PM
Originally posted by bpd1151
EDIT- Making this thread a sticky until we have more "How-To" suspension threads, then we will group them into one. Thanks to Mike for the great information!! -Admin


Now here's the kicker of it all, when it arrives at your door step, and open the package, you find enclosed along with the two bolts, two nuts that have the washers molded into them. I was told that these supplied nuts are to "tall" in height as it relates to the bolt itself, which is just barely long enough for the nut to grab enough thread.

It was suggested I obtain a nut that can be easily found at any local hardware store (in my case after visiting the large big box places, I ended up finding them at my local ACE Hardware. The nut I used was an M14.

By swapping out the supplied nut/washer combo supplied by SPC, with a shorter one I found at a local hardware store, these parts combined, worked successfully!



My question is: who told you that the supplied nuts are too "tall?"  Did you try to use them?  I got this reply today from them about NOT using their supplied nuts...
"My concern is that the bolt and the nut are coated and flanged, and that coating affects the toque value and therefore the clamp load of the strut your attaching. You can understand that clamp load is an important safety factor when working on the suspension of  vehicles. Too little clamp load will cause the suspension to fail, while too much clamp load will cause the bolt to fail. We have tested the nut and bolt together to come up with a torque value that accounts for the coating and will give us the proper and safe clamp load. Replacing the nut changes everything and also will void any and all warranties."

Any issues since you did this mod using those ACE hardware nuts?

Thanks again!
-Eric
2014 Silver SHO w/PP.  MODS: LME 93 Tune, 3-Bar Map, 160 Thermostat, MDesign Carbon Fiber CAI, H&R Springs, Cree LED Puddle Lights, LED License Plate Lights, LED DRL's, 20% Window Tint, Debaged trunk & added "3.5 Twin Turbo," & "SHO" emblems.

OmaHahn

UPDATE - PLEASE READ THIS!...  DO NOT BUY & USE A NUT FROM YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE!!!  USE THE BOLT & NUT THAT COMES IN THE PACKAGE!!!
The poster did an excellent job and write-up on this "how-to," issue regarding rear camber.  BUT....the nut being "too tall," doesn't make any sense.  It does NOT matter if the nut is tall, short, or what - the BIGGEST thing that matters is how many THREADS are grabbing the bolt.  So it doesn't matter which nut you use since they both only grab about 4-5 threads!
I prefer to use the bolt that comes in the package because it has a special coating, the strength is like category 12, AND it has a shoulder on it which creates a more secure fit and stronger clamping force!
But MANY thanks to the poster because now my rear wheels are aligned and not driving me nuts!!!
2014 Silver SHO w/PP.  MODS: LME 93 Tune, 3-Bar Map, 160 Thermostat, MDesign Carbon Fiber CAI, H&R Springs, Cree LED Puddle Lights, LED License Plate Lights, LED DRL's, 20% Window Tint, Debaged trunk & added "3.5 Twin Turbo," & "SHO" emblems.

FoMoCoSHO

Do you guys think we should sticky this in the suspension section?

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

CroR1

Has anyone used the 81280 bolt alignment kit on the front with success? 2014 SHO here. Also, how bad of a wear do you guys see on the H&R lowered springs in the front that did not adjust the camber with this 81280 bolt kit (miles on tires,concerning inside wear of tire)?

Gray Brick

2013 Ecoboost Ford Flex
AJP Tune (ATP+2) in progress , Livernois HPFP, 3 Bar MAP, UPR Catch Can, 100% Methanol w/ braided steel lines, 3" Downpipes -->2.5" X-pipe --> 2.5" Magnaflow exhaust, 2.5" air inlets to each turbo with cone filter, Custom water to air intercooler with chiller
275/40-20 Front 315/35-20 Rear Tires
---12.419ET/112.43MPH @ 5150 lbs in the 1/4---

SHOdded

Fits the 2013 SHO (OmaHahn above), so it should the Flex.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!