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"How-To" Flex/SHO/Explorer Sport spring installation DIY

Started by EcoPowerParts, July 14, 2013, 12:52:11 PM

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EcoPowerParts

Originally posted by Got5onIt
Note: My vehicle is a 2012 with Performance Package. This procedure should work for any 2010+

I tried to take pics through the process and thought I'd write up a how-to for anyone willing to tackle their own spring install. First, I must complain and give ford 2 big thumbs down for making the lower shock mount part of the wheel hub/spindle assembly. I've installed springs on many cars and have never had to deal with removing the wheel hub/spindle assembly for a spring swap. With that said, it wasn't as difficult as it first looked. Total install time (minus a couple of tool runs) ~4.5 hours.

You'll need various metric deep sockets, wrenches, & jack stands. I cant remember the sizes and should've written them down, but I do know a few important tools you'll need.

       
  • 32mm deep socket for the axle nut
  • 10mm socket and 13/16 spark plug socket for the shock/spring removal (unless you have an open/pass through socket which I did not have)
  • breaker bar & rubber mallet
  • spring compressor
  • 200 ft/lb torque wrench
FRONT

1. Remove wheel center cap to gain access to axle nut. I jacked the car up, removed the wheel, and popped the center cap. Reinstalled wheel and lowered.

2. With the 32mm deep socket, breaker bar, and the car fully back on the ground, loosen the axle nut. Do not remove completely.

3. Jack the car up and remove the wheel. Place jack stand underneath.

4. Remove caliper and set aside somewhere ensuring the brake line is free from strain. I set mine on a small step stool.

5. Remove nut that mounts lower control arm to the wheel spindle assembly. Here's a pic of the nut removed. Sorry for the blurry pic, but you get the idea. Make sure to use something to hold the shaft in place as you loosen the nut. I used a small adjustable wrench.



6. Remove the tie rod nut and move the rod out of the way. Remove the shock/sway bar link nut and move the link down and out of the way. Loosen the lower shock mount nut but do not remove. Pic with red arrows shows what was just described. There's also a black tube/line running to the back of the wheel hub/spindle assembly. I'm pretty sure this is the ABS sensor (not 100%). Remove the bolt holding it in and move the line out of the way.



7. Remove the axle nut.

8. Loosen the upper shock mount. Do not remove them completely, but loosen them up a bit.



9. Push the lower control arm down and out of the way, disengagng it from the wheel hub/spindle assembly. The arm has a lot of tension, so you'll have to put some muscle into it in order to get it low enough to move out of the way.

10. Put a jack under the front rotor for support.

11. Now the fun part is getting the axle to separate from the wheel hub. Turn the steering wheel TOWARDS the side you're working on. Use a rubber mallet to tap the center of the axle where it comes through the rotor back a bit. It wont fully disengage at this point, yet.

12. Remove the four upper shock mount nuts in step 8. At this point the jack is fully supporting the the shock, wheel hub/spindle assembly.

13. More fun and probably the most difficult part. I had to lower the jack at the right level, turning the wheel hub, & pulling to get the axle to fully separate from the wheel hub. This was a PITA mainly due to the weight of the entire assembly. Keep working it and you'll figure out the best way to maneuver it out of there. The shock being loose here gives you a little bit play, but you may want to remove the lower shock mount bolt completely to give you a little more.

14. Here's what it looks like when everything's out.



15. Here's the shock/spring with wheel hub removed.



16. Use the spring compressor to compress the spring enough to remove tension from the upper shock mount plate.

17. Removing the recessed nut to get the spring out will require either a pass through socket & ratchet or 13/16 spark plug socket for the nut and 10mm socket to hold the shaft. I used small 1/4 drive extension and put it through the spark plug socket, then attached the 10mm socket on the end of the extension. Place the 10mm socket on the shaft, then the 13/16 spark plug socket over that. Use a wrench to turn the spark plug socket and a ratchet on the end of the extension to hold the shaft in place.



18. Remove dust cover and old bump stop. Slide new bump stop down onto shaft and put on dust cover. Make sure the bump stop slides all the way onto the thick part of the shaft and doesn't stop near the threads.

19. Put the spring compressor on the new spring and compress it just enough that when placed back on the shock, the threaded shaft comes all the way through when the upper shock mount plate is put back in place. Make sure the lower pig tail is matched up with the lower spring isolator.

20. Put the upper shock mount plate back on and install the nut on the shaft. Tighten until it stops. Note there is a notch & arrow on the upper shock mount plate. Make sure to turn the plate where the arrow is pointing toward the face of the rotor. When installing the assembly back into the vehicle, ensure the arrow points to the face of the rotor.

21. Reassembly is just the reverse. Easier said then done, I know.

22. When putting the shock/wheel hub/spindle assembly back in place, it was easier for me to rest the unit on a jack and raise it up into the shock tower. When the upper shock mount bolts came through the shock tower, I loosely installed two nuts. This gave me enough play near the hub to move it around and install the axle and lower control arm.

23. I don't know the torque spec of the axle nut, but my "calibrated arm" (after breaking the nut loose) along with my experience on other vehicles had me thinking it was probably at least 200 ft/lbs. When everything was back together and the front still jacked up, I torqued the axle nut a little by hand. Then installed the wheel and lowered just enough where it made contact with the pavement and torqued the nut down to 150ft/lbs. Then fully lowered the vehicle down and took my breaker bar and tightened another 1/4 turn.


REAR

1. Definitely a helluva lot easier than the front. Jack the rear up, place on stands, and remove the wheel.

2. Remove the swar bar end link nut and move the link out of the way. Remove the two bolts holding the rear sway bar to the bottom side of the body. The green arrow in the pic shows the bracket holding the sway bar up. The rear sway bar will drop and rest on top of the exhaust piping. Loosen the lower control arm bolt/nut and remove the nut but not the bolt.



3. Place a jack under the lower control arm. Jack the assembly up until you hit the "sweet spot" where the lower control arm bolt slides out. You'll have to play with it to find the spot, but you'll know when you do.

4. Press down on the lower control arm and remove the spring.

5. When installing the new spring, make note of the lower pigtail position. The lower control arm isolator is molded already with the correct pigtail orientation. Make sure it sits in the groove and not on top.

6. Reassembly is reverse of removal.

Hope this is helpful. Feel free to ask any questions or comment with notes to make installation easier (things I may have missed or a better way to do it).

Eibachs installed:

Mike B | info@ecopowerparts.com
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angieSHO

I haven't done this yet, heck I don't even have my SHO yet but this is one of the first things I'm doing so thanks so much for taking the time to write a how to!!! Very helpful when the time comes.
Angie, future 2014 SHO PP owner, fully loaded, Deep Impact Blue

crash712us

Quote from: angieSHO on October 15, 2013, 03:14:55 PM
I haven't done this yet, heck I don't even have my SHO yet but this is one of the first things I'm doing so thanks so much for taking the time to write a how to!!! Very helpful when the time comes.

Front struts are entirely different on 2013 and much easier to do. Not sure if there is a DIY out there for, but the 2013's strut is bolted to steering knuckle by 2 bolts instead slipping into steering knuckle with pinch bolt. Keep in mind bolts on 2013 are splined and will not turn, so after nuts are removed bolts can be driven out.

2011 tuxedo black non pp, LMS stage 5, Corsa cat back, LMS down pipes, Airaid, Alky control meth injection, Megan Racing coil overs, EBC rotor&pads, Mobsteel grill, 2013 trans cooler. 403whp 417wtq 12.25 @ 110

angieSHO

Mine will be a 2014, would it be the same on them as the 13s?
Angie, future 2014 SHO PP owner, fully loaded, Deep Impact Blue

crash712us


2011 tuxedo black non pp, LMS stage 5, Corsa cat back, LMS down pipes, Airaid, Alky control meth injection, Megan Racing coil overs, EBC rotor&pads, Mobsteel grill, 2013 trans cooler. 403whp 417wtq 12.25 @ 110

Lanson

And let me add, do NOT let the halfshaft slip out of the yoke when you are doing this.  Suspend the hub/knuckle or restrain it from moving when you are pulling the strut out.

Overall, other than the absolute necessity to make sure you do not let the halfshafts pull too far out, doing the 2013 front end is CAKE.  I did it in my garage with an impact gun, some borrowed spring compressor tools, and some jackstands.  My hell began when those damn shafts pulled out though. 
I don't have an EB but I am an avid modder and happy to help the community and learn/grow.  Pretty good with audio and wheels, my build and discussion threads are here in the forum.  2013 Flex AWD N/A

Audio:  Dayton Reference home speakers in front stage, incl. 2-way passive custom pillars 2.5" mid, 3/4" tweet, 2-way passive custom center channel 5" mid, 3/4" tweet, 8" midbass in doors, Vibe UK amps, JBL MS8 processor, Optima Yellow-top custom-wired, Exile subs in spare tire well

Mods: H&R, K&N, 22x9 & 22x10 3 piece forged wheels 265/35-22 Toyos, SCTX4 w/ 91 oct. Torrie tune

vernonator

So what would a typicall garage charge to swap the springs? How much am I saving by doing it myself?
2012 Tuxedo Black SHO w/PP. Livernois Stage 4+, PPE Catless DP's, EBC Stage 4 Front/Rear Brakes
2015 Tuxedo Black Explorer Sport 401A, no mods....YET :)

bpd1151

Quote from: vernonator on October 16, 2013, 01:25:50 PM
So what would a typical garage charge to swap the springs? How much am I saving by doing it myself?

Around $300 would be average for a spring swap.

11BLKFX4EB

I'm hoping its ok to reply here instead of creating a new post. I wanted to reply here with my experience I had today installing H&R Springs on my 2014 SHO PP.

The rear springs were extremely easy. Follow the instructions as shown above.

For the front springs, there was no need to loosen the axle nut or remove the nut from the lower control arm. All I had to do was remove the nut from the tie rod end, the tie rod to strut and the 2 bolts that attach to the strut. After removing those 4 nuts, I was able to loosen the nuts at the strut tower and remove the strut completely. I also suggest  popping out the rubber stopper up top at the strut tower and loosen the nut with a 13/16" spark plug socket to get it started until you can pull the complete assembly out and remove the nut completely. I will try to post pictures later.

The whole process took me 4 hours today and that was talking with the neighbors for about 30 min.

Great write up above!! Just wanted to add my experience and shortcuts.
2014 SHO w/ PP Platinum White
Unleashed tuned, H&R Springs, 35% tint, Corsa catback coming...

2015 Explorer Sport Magnetic Metallic-stock...for now.

crash712us

Yes the installation on 13+ vehicles is much simpler. But 10-12 is much different.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2011 tuxedo black non pp, LMS stage 5, Corsa cat back, LMS down pipes, Airaid, Alky control meth injection, Megan Racing coil overs, EBC rotor&pads, Mobsteel grill, 2013 trans cooler. 403whp 417wtq 12.25 @ 110

sunwolf

I have heard that this is much easier on a 13+. Is there an updated DIY for that?
2014 Taurus SHO Black Performance Pack LMS tune 3bar tstat downpipes
2008 BMW M6 Convertible SMG
2008 F-150 XLT 4x4 5.4L
2011 F-150 Ecoboost Crew Cab 4x4
2012 Lincoln Navigator L 4x4

m3dragon

Quote from: sunwolf on August 24, 2015, 06:55:37 AM
I have heard that this is much easier on a 13+. Is there an updated DIY for that?

To make sure I understand 20.

Arrow face out correct? I did it facing arrow out when I swapped in HR Springs.

Rear on a 2013.
Is there a groove notch at the bottom need to align to? Top I do not see one as it is just a rubber grommet.


Colorado-SHOBro

Thread from the dead!

Any way to get pics fixed on this bad boy?
11' SHO Tuxedo Metallic black-non PP | Highly sophisticated high altitude custom AJP Turbo E30 3Bar tune w/Wastegate mod | Cat'd ceramic PPE downpipes |170 stat| SP542 plugs .028 | PP trans cooler | H&R springs | RX catch can

12.8@108 @ 6,000ft DA.

gtmorgan23

Can we get a "how to" on the 2013 and up pretty please.
2019 Edge ST "Phasma"
JLT Catch Can

ZSHO



2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|