2010 MKS-T Flashing CEL and Missing

[FaSSt9602]

I cleaned out my IC when I first bought the car.  At 27,000 miles there was already some build up.  Not a bunch, but enough to convince me that it needs to be checked every few oil changes and cleaned as needed.

How did you clean it?  I was thinking of taking it to a radiator shop and having them dunk it...

Mine has just shy of 100k.  At about 60k I got a new shortblock due to a cracked piston, which caused excess blow-by and oil everywhere.  I question whether the dealer was smart enough to clean things out when the had my car for months on end waiting on the new block...

[SHOdded]

Hmm possibly a split pipe, or a leak from the front turbo oil cooler line?  Rooting for the split pipe scenario.

[sholxgt]

I cleaned out my IC when I first bought the car.  At 27,000 miles there was already some build up.  Not a bunch, but enough to convince me that it needs to be checked every few oil changes and cleaned as needed.

How did you clean it?  I was thinking of taking it to a radiator shop and having them dunk it...

Mine has just shy of 100k.  At about 60k I got a new shortblock due to a cracked piston, which caused excess blow-by and oil everywhere.  I question whether the dealer was smart enough to clean things out when the had my car for months on end waiting on the new block...

Man...I tried several methods using stuff that I cobbled together out of my garage.  First step is to use your dispstick to see if it even needs cleaning.  Mine came up with about 1/3" of oil, so it was time to take the next step.

I first tried a brake bleed kit.  No go.  Needs constant suction.  So, I then hooked a junky old vacuum I keep in the basement up to clear tubing with some plumbing parts I had around.  Sucked through a brake bleed kit reservoir to keep the oil from entering the vacuum.  It worked, but didn't quite get it all.  I then took a vacuum T and cut one side completely off, hooked the clear tubing to the bottom port and inserted into the IC.  Took my air hose with the blow gun attachment inserted into the cut off end of the T and blew.  It created enough of a suction on the clear tube/down portion to blow out the rest.  That part was messy.  Had wife hold shop rags and I blew the oil onto them.

Before I do it again, I think I'll pick up one of these to try...
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html

Complete removal and cleaning would of course be the best method, but that looks like a LOT of work.

[FaSSt9602]

Hmm possibly a split pipe, or a leak from the front turbo oil cooler line?  Rooting for the split pipe scenario.

I'll snap some pictures tonight and post them in my thread so I don't bugger this one up any more...

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6279.0.html

[TX MKS-T]

So today I finally got a code to stick long enough to be captured !  Merging into to traffic I got on her some and it happened as usual tossing her into limp mode and this time the CEL stayed lit after flashing for a few seconds. I always thought a coil pack would completely croak rather than it have sporatic issues. I have a coil pack and PCV on the way now so stay tuned !

Code - P0305 - #5 Misfire

[TX MKS-T]

Well new coil installed and light still on...

Guessing i need to move onto possible injector now. I have plugs gapped to .34 since my car is bone stock so guessing it cant be gaps. Is there a DYI on fuel injector replacement here by chance ?

[SHOdded]

No DIY, but this thread may help:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6357
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6357.msg99662.html#msg99662

Have just asked him to post videos, let's see!

[TX MKS-T]

So as I wait to order the injector I decided to go ahead and clean my MAP sensor having never done this. Im almost doubting the possible injector fault since my car starts easy and no smell of fuel so not sure if this would rule out a bad injector.

So pulled MAP and found it to be covered in oil, not drenched but def had oil on it and what looked to be a piece of an dense oil blob. I cleaned and re-installed reset battery and car is back to getting 20mpg without CEL P0305 mis fire now but still somewhat hesitating under WOT. I want to try and close my plug gap some from its current .034 to .030 perhaps to see if this changes but not sure if its worth the troubles. I now have 40k on the clock so possible the carbon build  up on my valves may be ugly. I am trying to rule out everything simple before I dive into the injector replacement...

[SHOdded]

Well, that is definitely progress!  Try cleaning the other MAP sensor as well, it is attached to the tube leading from the intercooler to the throttle body on the throttle body end.  If the intake MAP is covered in oil, it's a fair bet this one is as well.

[TX MKS-T]

So i got around to changing #5 injector today, took me about 2hrs going slowly. Was a tedious job but definitely something the average wrencher can do himself. The injector was pretty bad but even more shocked at the carbon buildup on valves with only 42k on the clock. I may have to open it back up for a valve clean with AMSOil power foam but verdict is still out on whether it fixed my miss as I haven't WOT yet.

[SHOdded]

Can't see the pics but hope the miss is fixed!

[TX MKS-T]

Pic link updated and I did a couple of WOT hits this morning and it pulls clean like a freight train, feels better than it did when I 1st got it actually. I'm sure the 29* temps were aiding that some but no hiccups and no CEL ! 

[derfdog15]

Pic link updated and I did a couple of WOT hits this morning and it pulls clean like a freight train, feels better than it did when I 1st got it actually. I'm sure the 29* temps were aiding that some but no hiccups and no CEL !

Great news!

The cold sure does help it feel nice, mine pulls hard as hell in below freezing temps, but I don't do it often because it takes so long for the transmission to warm up and I fear spinning haha

[glock-coma]

Glad you got her running great now.
Really good pics of the valves. How was it removing the intake manifold?
Media blasting the intake valves is on my to do list durning the cold months.

[TX MKS-T]

Thanks !

Glock the removal wasnt bad at all, hardest part were the clamps on the heater hoses lol. Next time I should be able to remove the intake in 30mins or so. I was surprised considering how complex under the hood looks.


I researched here for a while to get an idea of what was involved to do this job so figured from what I gathered Id put it here for those who may need to do this at some point.


For those curious how to remove intake:

* Disconnect battery
* Remove lower air dam to get access to radiator drain plug (Driver side)
* Drain Coolant
* Disconnect all sensor plugs attached to intake
* Remove top boost tube
* Remove TB to IC tube
* Remove top portion of air cleaner assembly
* Disconnect both radiator hoses going into intake Driver/Pass side
* Disconnect 2 large heater hoses and 2 smaller hose (Driver side rear)
* Remove 12 intake bolts
* loosen the right main wire harness so you can slide the intake under it
* Give it a good tug to free it and maneuver it out


Removing the injectors in addition to the above:

* 17mm wrench to loosen pump flare nut at pump and 2 at rails
* Use rag to capture fuel that will come out under pressure
* Remove 1 bolt holding HPFP rail to valve cover then remove rail
* Remove the 6 bolts holding each fuel rail on depending on which inj your replacing
* Lightly wiggle till you arms hurt and eventually the rail will come out
* Remove the clip on top of injector, it slides out the side
* The injectors will require you to turn back and fourth while pulling up to free them from head
* Installing Inj requires a dab of oil on top O rings, do not put anything on bottom Teflon seal
* Install into head 1st then gently wiggle fuel rail onto all injectors till the rail seats and re-install everything above