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Lowering rear end

Started by KonaTheWhale, March 28, 2016, 01:35:58 PM

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KonaTheWhale

After much thought and pondering I decided that I want the SHO lowered, at least the rear of it. I read a thread about cutting 1/3 of a coil off the bottom of the rear coil which would level it out and that sounds most appealing to me. Didn't really want to put on a lowering kit and make the ride rough since mine is DD. Does anyone have any idea if less of the spring would need cut off for a non-pp vs a pp car as mine is a non-pp and the thread I had found was a pp car.
2011 Ford Taurus SHO non PP Kona blue, Livernois 93 octane 3 bar tune, PPE catless downpipes, muffler delete, 160* stat, K&N drop in filter, VTA mod, rear end lowered, 15% tint, EBC brake upgrade

hghlndr85

Im wondering the same. I had same idea

92BlackGT

the car in that thread is non pp
'14 Taurus SHO - non PP, Unleashed E20 tune, 3 bar - 12.91 @ 106.5 mph
'93 Mustang Coupe - AFR 165's, FTI cam, ported Cobra intake - 13.05 @ 105.6 mph

KonaTheWhale

I don't know why I thought it was a pp, that is my bad. Thats what I get for posting real quick at work. Is there anything else that needs to be done/ adjusted afterwords? I plan on getting an alignment sometime after
2011 Ford Taurus SHO non PP Kona blue, Livernois 93 octane 3 bar tune, PPE catless downpipes, muffler delete, 160* stat, K&N drop in filter, VTA mod, rear end lowered, 15% tint, EBC brake upgrade

92BlackGT

yea, I'd get an alignment but other than that tighten it all up and drive away
'14 Taurus SHO - non PP, Unleashed E20 tune, 3 bar - 12.91 @ 106.5 mph
'93 Mustang Coupe - AFR 165's, FTI cam, ported Cobra intake - 13.05 @ 105.6 mph

hghlndr85

So on the pp cars you can just cut 1/3 off the spring and get it aligned and be good to go?

Scott4957

I will be doing the same. Its best to put the car on a level surface, measure the height, then you will likely want to remove the difference between the front and rear. I would then remove the spring and measure from the flat bottom sitting on the ground to the top of the spring where it ends. You would cut off what you measured the difference to be. In my opinion I would cut half that then test and see where its at. Measure twice.....and cut twice LOL Any also have some money in the band for H&R's if you screw up ;) Don't just trust someone saying 1/3 of a coil, do the measuring and take off less just to be sure.
2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost, AJP Tuned

92BlackGT

go to this site and read and watch the video. https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/cutting-coil-springs/
the 1/3 of a coil I cut shortened the spring 1/2" and that came to just about a 1" drop for the car
'14 Taurus SHO - non PP, Unleashed E20 tune, 3 bar - 12.91 @ 106.5 mph
'93 Mustang Coupe - AFR 165's, FTI cam, ported Cobra intake - 13.05 @ 105.6 mph

hghlndr85

What part did you cut on the spring and do you have a,pic of how it sits?

92BlackGT

'14 Taurus SHO - non PP, Unleashed E20 tune, 3 bar - 12.91 @ 106.5 mph
'93 Mustang Coupe - AFR 165's, FTI cam, ported Cobra intake - 13.05 @ 105.6 mph

CroR1

#10
Just an update guys, I lowered mine with H&R, front and rear, and I like it. It is stiffer for sure, bit harsher than the OEM PP springs. But I like it. The stance looks so good and the wheels I have on it, look great to me. Highly recommend the springs.

I cannot give a 100% true review on the comparison between the OEM springs and the H&R, because I had my 18 inch steelies with winter tires on, when I went to H&R with summer tires. In other words, it has been few months last time I drove on the summer tires on the PP springs. And the 18 inch rubber absorbed a lot of more noise and bumps due to high sidewall. But, as other forum members mentioned before, H&R way is stiffer, not too much, but not bad at all.

The install went smooth, rear took about 25 min. and front a bit longer due to compressing of the spring. I had it aligned, did not use the camber bolt (I do have it, but I decided not mess with it at this point, as it did not seem bad when looking at it from behind. Plus, taking turns, should be more stable, grip wise. I will install them if I notice any abnormal tire wear, but I highly doubt it.) and it drives smooth. There are no clicks, creaks, or any other strange noises. Even over the speed road bumps, it is quiet and smooth.

I will say one thing though, the continental DW, 275/40/20, are so much quieter than the F1s.

I am in a rush, so I might be missing some things, but I will update if any changes come along.

And of course, the pics...I have one so far, but over my phone it never uploads, hmm..