Tighten Drive Belt

[salsathe4th]

My car is reaching the 100,000 mark and the belt is starting to really squeak and now even when it warms up the squeaking wont go away. I have never tightened a drive belt and would rather give it a go then take it to a shop. Worse case scenario i bought a new belt because if i do take it to the shop im betting they will "recommend" a new one  If there are instructions I can follow for tightening and if any of you guys have opinions on whether or not just to change the belt at a shop, both will be appreciated! 

Since the ptu and rear differential fluids have never been replaced to my knowledge should I just go to a ford shop and get those done along with the new belt put on?

[AJP turbo]

Alot of fords there are no adjustments...there is a spring loaded tensioner..it may be worn out

[SHOdded]

I'd replace the accessory drive belts and tensioner together.  Most likely a Ford shop will refuse to perform PTU fluid R&R, but if you get lucky, they might have experience doing it.  That shop may or may not be a BG shop as well.  RDU fluid R&R should be problemo at any shop.

http://bgfindashop.com

Personally, my biggest fear in this area of the engine is what's behind the timing cover - timing chain, tensioner, water pump, etc.  The belts would have to come off anyway.  So if you can manage the belts/tensioner by yourself, that would be the "cheapest" way to go.

Here are instructions for the accessory drive belt & tensioner:

Accessory Drive Belt — 3.5L GTDI
Removal

NOTICE: Under no circumstances should the accessory drive belt, tensioner or pulleys be lubricated as potential damage to the belt material and tensioner damping mechanism will occur. Do not apply any fluids or belt dressing to the accessory drive belt or pulleys.

• With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
• Remove the RH front wheel and tire. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
• Remove the 7 pin-type retainers and the RH splash shield.
• Working from under the vehicle, rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and remove the accessory drive belt.

Installation

• Working from under the vehicle, position the accessory drive belt on all pulleys with the exception of the crankshaft pulley.
  NOTE: After installation, make sure the accessory drive belt is correctly seated on all pulleys.
• Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and install the accessory drive belt on the crankshaft pulley.
• Install the RH splash shield and the 7 pin-type retainers.
• Install the RH front wheel and tire. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner — 3.5L GTDI
Removal

• With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
• Remove the RH front wheel and tire. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
• Remove the 7 pin-type retainers and the RH splash shield.
• Working from under the vehicle, rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and remove the accessory drive belt.
• Remove the 3 bolts and the accessory drive belt tensioner.

Installation

• Install the accessory drive belt tensioner and the 3 bolts.
• Tighten to 11 Nm (97 lb-in).
• Working from under the vehicle, position the accessory drive belt on all pulleys with the exception of the crankshaft pulley.
  NOTE: After installation, make sure the accessory drive belt is correctly seated on all pulleys.
• Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and install the accessory drive belt on the crankshaft pulley.
• Install the RH splash shield and the 7 pin-type retainers.
• Install the RH front wheel and tire. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

[AJP turbo]

Shodded why are u talking about behind the timing cover?...no need to go that deep for serp. Belts

[SHOdded]

Shodded why are u talking about behind the timing cover?...no need to go that deep for serp. Belts

You are correct!  I was simply pointing out that (heaven forbid) a problem with the timing chain or water pump (known to happen on occasion) develops further down the road, it might be best to preserve funds now (unless the shop gives a great deal on the belt/tensioner replacement).  I have no idea what the book says the labor rates for this job are btw.  Probably not a MAJOR point, but I am always trying to allocate funds the best I can, and I assume everyone is like-minded

[SHOdded]

As far as checking the belt tensioner, this is the only thing the FSM has to say:

Belt Tensioner — Mechanical

The only mechanical check that needs to be made is a check for tensioner stick, grab or bind.

• With the engine off, check routing of the accessory drive belt. Refer to the illustrations under Accessory Drive in the Description and Operation portion of this section.
  
• NOTE: The accessory drive belt tensioner spring is very strong and requires substantial force to release.
  Using a suitable, commercially available serpentine belt tensioner release tool, release the tension on the belt and detach the accessory drive belt from the tensioner. Carry out the following tests:
  
  
  
  • Using the release tool, move the tensioner from its relaxed position, through its full stroke and back to the relaxed position to make sure there is no stick, grab or bind, and to make sure that there is tension on the tensioner spring.
  • Rotate the tensioner pulley by hand and check for a binding, contaminated or seized condition.
  • Inspect the area surrounding the accessory drive belt tensioner for oil leaks or contamination and repair any leaks.
• If the accessory drive belt tensioner does not meet the criteria in the previous step, install a new tensioner. If the accessory drive belt tensioner meets the criteria in the previous step, proceed to testing the tensioner dynamically.
• If the tensioner is saturated with oil and grease internally, install a new tensioner.

Belt Tensioner — Dynamics

The accessory drive belt tensioner can be checked dynamically as follows:

• With the engine running, observe the accessory drive belt tensioner movement. The accessory drive tensioner should move (respond) when the A/C clutch cycles (if equipped), or when the engine is accelerated rapidly. If the accessory drive belt tensioner movement is excessive without A/C clutch cycling or engine acceleration, check belt rideout. Excessive belt rideout (uneven depth of grooves in the belt) can cause excessive accessory drive belt tensioner movement. Check rideout condition by installing a new belt. If excessive accessory drive belt tensioner movement still exists, install a new accessory drive belt tensioner.

[salsathe4th]

Since I already have the new belt should i just buy a new tensioner because I'm pretty sure mine has been wearing away (rattle noise upon start up). Also if someone could give me a link where to buy one that would be great!
http://www.autozone.com/external-engine/belt-tensioner/duralast-belt-tensioner/199509_913095_0/?checkfit=true#tab-reviews this should work i think
I'm not sure if I am mechanically inclined as much as to follow your instructions shodded (if it was easier to reach i would try it!).

[SHOdded]

Personally, I recommend sticking with Motorcraft parts when feasible, unless there are better aftermarket parts available.  The warranty on the Duralast is also only 1 year, Motorcraft will give you 2/unlimited warranty.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2312434&cc=1445050&jsn=1952 (tensioner including the pulley BT4Z6B209B)

Hope the rattle noise goes away!

Here's some good belt/tensioner info from Gates:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2542726&cc=1444313&jsn=1976
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