*HOW-TO* 2013+ Brakes on a 2010-2012...THEY WORK!!

[jimmyducati]

Just finished this install using powerstop rotors and pads/Motorcraft brackets and calipers. Have only done the front, as my rear EBC rotors and pads are working nicely and have lots of life left. The disks/pads are the Z37 "Top Cop" package available from Rockauto. Now Im just waiting on my rear calipers to have a seized slider or worn pads, they will be upgraded along with a +13 booster and M/C.

[timbo]

...Timbo, Primalzer, and Shodded has anyone put together a complete list of parts and part numbers yet?

From MC to brake lines.  @primalzer you're my hero with that spread sheet!

Need to get this complete upgrade done asap!...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not that I know of.  I put together the list of parts I used that I know will fit.  As for the Booster and Master, that is a separate upgrade and while I believe they should be done at the same time, they are not required to be.  There is a full write-up with Ford part #s for that.

[SHOdded]

booster/mc retrofit
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,609

[jimmyducati]

booster/mc retrofit
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,609

Literally the only reason to do the +13 brakes and booster/MC at the same time is to reduce the amount of brake bleeding you have to do. I have noticed zero ill effect on the 2010 Booster/MC using the +13 "police" brakes. Very smooth application, engagement begins at the top of the pedal travel and is very firm. I do agree that you will likely get the best performance with the entire system upgraded, but its by no means a necessity to do them on any timeline other than as the parts need to be replaced.

[timbo]

Good to know.  Some may actually prefer the feel of the 10-12' brakes, and just adding the larger 13+ brakes may satisfy their requirement.  I think you're the first to do it that way as many had already done the Booster/Master.

[Mustang5L5]

Any reason why this brake upgrade couldn't work on the 2013+ non-SHO Taurus as well?   My understanding is the non-SHO's have the same brakes as the 2010-2012's but I have seen some say the 2013+ SHO has a different knuckle that would prevent such a retrofit.

[Primalzer]

Any reason why this brake upgrade couldn't work on the 2013+ non-SHO Taurus as well?   My understanding is the non-SHO's have the same brakes as the 2010-2012's but I have seen some say the 2013+ SHO has a different knuckle that would prevent such a retrofit.

First question is, what are you gaining by going with the SHO caliper over the non-SHO? The physical caliper brackets between the SHO and non-SHO are the exact same (BRBC28 and 29.) The calipers themselves are different only in the internals (the SHO caliper being a bit more heat tolerant with difference in the pistons.) But they are otherwise dimensionally the same. The rotors are giving me different part numbers, but I'm having a hard time finding the dimensions of the SHO rotors vs non-SHO rotors. I'm not sure this totally answers your question, but maybe informs a bit, hopefully?

Non-SHO Caliper


SHO Caliper (notice the red piston seals)

[Mustang5L5]

First question is, what are you gaining by going with the SHO caliper over the non-SHO? The physical caliper brackets between the SHO and non-SHO are the exact same (BRBC28 and 29.) The calipers themselves are different only in the internals (the SHO caliper being a bit more heat tolerant with difference in the pistons.) But they are otherwise dimensionally the same. The rotors are giving me different part numbers, but I'm having a hard time finding the dimensions of the SHO rotors vs non-SHO rotors. I'm not sure this totally answers your question, but maybe informs a bit, hopefully?

The '13+ non-SHO's wear the same brakes as the 2010-2012's.  325mm(12.8") front / 330mm (12.99") rear.  So really the swap would be gaining the same thing as any one with an  '10-12  doing the upgrade.

MC and booster are the same on all '13+, so really what I want to do is the next time I need front brakes, just swap to the 14" brakes and get a little bit more stopping power for my driving habits and fill up my 19" wheels a bit more with bigger rotors.

Cost for the fronts is $175 to do original diameter rotors and pads, or $360ish to go to the 14" setup (rotors, calipers, pads, dust shields).   So the difference is $185 for the front setup. 

What I haven't found is any other '13+ non-sho guys doing the swap. I'm not unfamiliar with brake swaps, but I've seen claims that the knuckle is different between the various '13+ models, so trying to understand if this is the case before I spent money on parts

[Primalzer]

First question is, what are you gaining by going with the SHO caliper over the non-SHO? The physical caliper brackets between the SHO and non-SHO are the exact same (BRBC28 and 29.) The calipers themselves are different only in the internals (the SHO caliper being a bit more heat tolerant with difference in the pistons.) But they are otherwise dimensionally the same. The rotors are giving me different part numbers, but I'm having a hard time finding the dimensions of the SHO rotors vs non-SHO rotors. I'm not sure this totally answers your question, but maybe informs a bit, hopefully?

The '13+ non-SHO's wear the same brakes as the 2010-2012's.  325mm(12.8") front / 330mm (12.99") rear.  So really the swap would be gaining the same thing as any one with an  '10-12  doing the upgrade.

MC and booster are the same on all '13+, so really what I want to do is the next time I need front brakes, just swap to the 14" brakes and get a little bit more stopping power for my driving habits and fill up my 19" wheels a bit more with bigger rotors.

Cost for the fronts is $175 to do original diameter rotors and pads, or $360ish to go to the 14" setup (rotors, calipers, pads, dust shields).   So the difference is $185 for the front setup. 

What I haven't found is any other '13+ non-sho guys doing the swap. I'm not unfamiliar with brake swaps, but I've seen claims that the knuckle is different between the various '13+ models, so trying to understand if this is the case before I spent money on parts

I believe you'd only be swapping the calipers and rotors, as the brackets are the same (at least for fronts)

The 10-12 (of which I did the swap) the brackets need to change as well.

[Mustang5L5]

First question is, what are you gaining by going with the SHO caliper over the non-SHO? The physical caliper brackets between the SHO and non-SHO are the exact same (BRBC28 and 29.) The calipers themselves are different only in the internals (the SHO caliper being a bit more heat tolerant with difference in the pistons.) But they are otherwise dimensionally the same. The rotors are giving me different part numbers, but I'm having a hard time finding the dimensions of the SHO rotors vs non-SHO rotors. I'm not sure this totally answers your question, but maybe informs a bit, hopefully?

The '13+ non-SHO's wear the same brakes as the 2010-2012's.  325mm(12.8") front / 330mm (12.99") rear.  So really the swap would be gaining the same thing as any one with an  '10-12  doing the upgrade.

MC and booster are the same on all '13+, so really what I want to do is the next time I need front brakes, just swap to the 14" brakes and get a little bit more stopping power for my driving habits and fill up my 19" wheels a bit more with bigger rotors.

Cost for the fronts is $175 to do original diameter rotors and pads, or $360ish to go to the 14" setup (rotors, calipers, pads, dust shields).   So the difference is $185 for the front setup. 

What I haven't found is any other '13+ non-sho guys doing the swap. I'm not unfamiliar with brake swaps, but I've seen claims that the knuckle is different between the various '13+ models, so trying to understand if this is the case before I spent money on parts

I believe you'd only be swapping the calipers and rotors, as the brackets are the same (at least for fronts)

The 10-12 (of which I did the swap) the brackets need to change as well.

I'm finding conflicting info which doesn't make sense. 

I've seen BRBC28-29 listed as the caliper bracket for the SHO, but have also seen some sources list it as working on my Limited, and some cite  BB5Z2B292D/BB5Z2B293D  as being the brackets for the non-SHO.

Looking at my current brackets, I don't see these fitting over a 14" rotor. The grove the rotor spins through it tight to the rotor with little clearance. They would make contact on larger rotor  I was planning on buying one of the BRBC28/29 brackets on ebay and doing a test fit.  Only $35 or so and I can just do a quick test fit to see if it bolts up to my knuckle

A little bit of irony.  The SHO brake components are actually cheaper than the non-SHO versions. I'm even finding same brand rotors to be cheaper.

[Primalzer]

I would double check to see if those alternate part numbers are actually the same as the original part number I posted. Ford is notorious for having like 4 different part numbers for the same part.

And yeah, when I was going through and doing the swap, the SHO components were noticeably cheaper than the standard versions, which I found extremely odd, but also satisfying.

[FoMoCoSHO]

Any gen 4.1 guys have any issues with core return?

[timbo]

Any reason why this brake upgrade couldn't work on the 2013+ non-SHO Taurus as well?   My understanding is the non-SHO's have the same brakes as the 2010-2012's but I have seen some say the 2013+ SHO has a different knuckle that would prevent such a retrofit.

I would love to confirm this, but by research has shown there was only the overlap in 2013 MY only for the smaller brakes. Beginning 2014, the part numbers are all the same, except the performance package calipers have the vented pistons and silicon boots for heat.


The spindle is different only in the fact that it uses the 2 bolt mounting to the strut vs the big hole/pinch style of the 10-12.


The purpose of this thread was to show that the brakes will mount between the 2. I ordered all the parts for a 2014 Taurus and put them on my 2011.