*HOW-TO* 2013+ Brakes on a 2010-2012...THEY WORK!!

markssho · December 29, 2015, 05:09:53 PM

Great information! Wish I had known this before I purchased new rotors and pads.

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timbo · December 29, 2015, 05:42:20 PM

Quote from: bamsho on December 29, 2015, 12:00:56 PM
Awesome write up and great leg work. Sounds like too, you will need the MC and Booster retrofit to make good use of the bigger brakes. Glad it all worked out great. GOOD JOB!!

That should be the first upgrade to the brake system on any 2010-2012 Taurus/MKZ/etc. It makes the feel much better. I guess I shouldn't assume everyone has done this. Although, if you are ok with the way the 2010-2012 brakes feel and just want more capability, I guess this would be alright as the piston area remains the same.

timbo · January 07, 2016, 11:03:29 PM

I've put a few hundred miles on them now. City, highway, and spirited driving. First impression was favorable. Brakes were far more responsive (not surprising with the increase in torque). After they were broken in, the initial bite wore off slightly, but the brake feel is much more progressive and linear. Noticeable decrease in braking effort with the same result. I actually feel like I can activate the ABS/lock up my 275 UHP summer tires on dry pavement. Never got close with the OE size brakes.

bamsho · January 08, 2016, 11:06:46 AM

Cool, nice update. Sounds like the upgrade is working great good.

Dxlnt1 · January 09, 2016, 01:21:23 AM

What is rough estimate of parts cost? Including booster and master cylinder. I may look into doing this as my 2011 brakes are not so good as others have stated!

Bosscav · January 09, 2016, 10:11:08 AM

Quote from: Dxlnt1 on January 09, 2016, 01:21:23 AM
What is rough estimate of parts cost? Including booster and master cylinder. I may look into doing this as my 2011 brakes are not so good as others have stated!

Booster and MC come out to be around $230 if I remember correctly. It has the potential to be a messy job though...

Dxlnt1 · January 09, 2016, 08:00:21 PM

Quote from: Bosscav on January 09, 2016, 10:11:08 AM
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on January 09, 2016, 01:21:23 AM
What is rough estimate of parts cost? Including booster and master cylinder. I may look into doing this as my 2011 brakes are not so good as others have stated!
Booster and MC come out to be around $230 if I remember correctly. It has the potential to be a messy job though...

Not so worried about the mess. Since I am alone and don't have help to bleed the brakes, I will likely take to a friends shop and let him do the work that requires opening brake lines.

So I will probably buy all parts including calipers then have him install at once. Long as everything is a straight bolt in he will only charge me maybe $100 labor

SHOdded · January 09, 2016, 08:42:37 PM

Do it do it do it!!!

FoMoCoSHO · January 09, 2016, 10:06:59 PM

^X2

I walked away from a used 4.1 because the brakes were unacceptable.

The difference in braking power and fade resistance is absurdly different.

FoMoCoSHO · January 09, 2016, 10:15:36 PM

Between PP and non-pp I don't feel much difference except the PP pads dont b*tch at you when they get hot. Non-PP got pretty loud when they got hot which happened pretty quick. Sounded like a grinding noise. Never faded though.

Bosscav · January 10, 2016, 11:49:54 AM

Quote from: Dxlnt1 on January 09, 2016, 08:00:21 PM
Quote from: Bosscav on January 09, 2016, 10:11:08 AM
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on January 09, 2016, 01:21:23 AM
What is rough estimate of parts cost? Including booster and master cylinder. I may look into doing this as my 2011 brakes are not so good as others have stated!
Booster and MC come out to be around $230 if I remember correctly. It has the potential to be a messy job though...

Not so worried about the mess. Since I am alone and don't have help to bleed the brakes, I will likely take to a friends shop and let him do the work that requires opening brake lines.

So I will probably buy all parts including calipers then have him install at once. Long as everything is a straight bolt in he will only charge me maybe $100 labor

I need to go to that guy's shop! Maybe he can do both of our MCs and Boosters at the same time.

People around me want to charge 3hrs of labor (at almost $100/hr)

timbo · January 12, 2016, 01:20:22 AM

The master and booster will cost less than $250. The front brake setup I put together cost about $475. It is not the PP brakes, but you can get a lot of different pads, so the PP are not necessary for "performance" oriented drivers. I ended up with the Raybestos Hybrid pads (EHT) and they seem to work very well with Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors. I have the rear brakes too that I will be putting on in a week or so, when I get some time. I'm also looking at putting some braided lines together, but that's for later.

timbo · February 06, 2016, 01:07:26 AM

Got the rear done and posted in the original post.

Impressions: I was not expecting the rears to be doing as much work as they really did. I had the stock metallic PP ones on the rear with the upgraded rotors, and they really didn't do much. I put the 2013+ rears with the EHT pads and holy crap do my rear brakes actually work. I find myself braking much later and I surprise myself when I hit the brakes. They are far more responsive and much better with the heat. I recommend this to anyone with the earlier brakes. Next upgrade will be some DOT teflon/SS braided hoses, but that will be next year.

SHOdded · February 06, 2016, 01:13:38 AM

Sweet! I think you are pushing more and more people towards the complete upgrade path

SHOJUDAH · February 06, 2016, 06:11:21 AM

I am definitely going to do this upgrade. Its a good price for parts and I can do the install myself. Only wish FORD would make some racing parts for the Taurus SHO.