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Drive Bright Lights Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) Lower Cathode Replacement

Started by Adam, October 30, 2015, 09:21:42 AM

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Adam

Love them.  Made the car bright, made the car much more expensive looking, made the car more stylish, and it made the car more visible with both a bright DRL and a blinker you cannot miss.

The install was not bad at all. Very few tools needed.

Tools required:
Wire Strippers
plastic flat trim remover pry bar
7/16 I believe socket wrench
Time

First of all, this is a solid all included kit.  You do not need to go running to the auto parts store for one part, then another.  Totally complete kit.

1. You need to remove the cover going to the current cathode style DRL on both sides which is like 6 pop down tabs, see removed picture.  Take a pry bar and pop it out one tab at a time on both sides.
2. Take the socket and remove the 2 bolts holding the cathode style unit in place and the 3 lowest bolts on the front fender well trim. 
3. Unplug cathode by reaching in via wheel well.  You can turn the steering wheel to adjust tire angle to give you the most room.
4. Remove the cathode.  This may be held in place with some basic push tabs or just fall out on its own like mine did
5.Start to wire.  pop open the fuse block right next to the air filter 2013+ find fuse 90 or 92 and remove that fuse.  Add it to the other slot on the supplied kit and plug it back in.
5.  Follow the directions.  One wire now goes to the blinker, then the yellow wire goes to the blinker on the other side using the scotch locks. Optional white wire to make the DRLs dim when the headlights are on.  I skipped this one.
6.Route the line using the supplied zip ties. I went and attached it in the front over the radiator top and tied it to the wire harness that also ran across the top.
7. Don't be discouraged when the supplied line off the ballast does not reach.  The passenger side lens comes with extra long line that once you fish up to make the connection you will have room to spare
8. plug in and bolt back on the new LED style DRL.  Now check for operation
9. stare at it and say "badass"
10. put the bolts back in place in the fender well.  and put the beauty cover back over top on the bumper around the new led DRL

That is it, you are done.


If you bought the courtesy kit as well, you snip off the line right at the fuse part of the ballast about 4" in where the connector already is.  Use the wire stripper to put on the new supplied line, plug it back into the fuse block. close up the block and attach the new blue wire to the drivers side blinker function again.  You will have a great running kit.


Adam

OEM Kit trim removal

Backside of lower valance trim piece

Remove the 2 bolts that hold the light in place

Out with the Old. In with the New

Can you tell which side is complete?


Connection directly to the battery

Location under the fuse block 2013+

Adam

Passenger side yellow wire connection to turn signal orange bulb wire

Here it is at night.  Outside my workshop spare 2 car garage

They are even in height and all.  It is the actual slope of the driveway that makes one then the other appear to be pointing higher.

Light output just from the DRL.  Super bright!

Here is the 6000K bulbs and DRLs.  Looks Amazing together

The light on the ground is just from the DRL.  Look at that output.  Like a GOOD fog light.


BigPelo

This has been on "mod wish list" for a while. Thank you for the how-to. I would do it sooner but money...
Week-end family transporter: 2013 SHO tuxedo black, performance package, unleashed custom 94 octane tune, K&N Typhoon intake, 170F thermostat, 3 bar MAP sensor, SP534 spark plugs, 5000K HID Morimoto mini D2S projectors retrofit, tinted windows, Full LED lighting in and out, Eibach springs
Daily beater: 2002 WRX wagon swap JDM STi v7 20G'd

Adam

Quote from: BigPelo on October 30, 2015, 03:11:59 PM
This has been on "mod wish list" for a while. Thank you for the how-to. I would do it sooner but money...

Save up!  Worth every penny they ask for them.  To be honest, the harness in the box looks almost intimidating.  Once stretched out I was like ok I got this.  Looks great.  Had one Taurus guy say he liked what they did with the lights on the new model year.  I said I put them in, he asked for a link.  It is pretty darn awesome.  The light output helps out a ton as well.

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Adam

Quote from: SHOdded on October 30, 2015, 05:55:18 PM
Hope Adam doesn't mind my adding these links to this HowTo :)

More examples of the DriveBright DRL's/light bars installed here
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,4439.0.html
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,4487.0.html
Q on the Bezel here
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,5263.0.html

Go for it.  Props given where props are due.  This product is truly fantastic.  Good stuff you posted.  I am new and not trying to repeat, but I did not see much of a detail write up.  Some good info that got me to order the kit, but i wanted to show some of the pictures that were not shown.  AWESOME links though.

Beaster1174

With this kit, do the DRLs stay on with the key? I would like that, because stock they are only on with the headlights.
2012 SHO Sterling Gray. Temporarily stock, stay tuned.

BiGMaC

Quote from: Beaster1174 on October 31, 2015, 05:39:16 PM
With this kit, do the DRLs stay on with the key? I would like that, because stock they are only on with the headlights.
On any time the ignition is on... And they come in switchbacks, plus can be wired to flash with locking, opening door, etc.

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

Adam

Just wanted to update.  Not one issue since putting system in the car.  Still bright, still working flawless, still a lot of bang for the buck.

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

metroplex

Do we need to mess with the stock wiring if we just want to use the white LED function or is it required only for the turn signal option? Can they be used as fog lights or are they just really bright DRLs?
Previously: 2014 SHO
12.4 @ 110.9 mph

Current: 2017 Fusion Sport

BigPelo

Finally had a chance to install my kit couple weeks ago. I can't get the lights on! Instructions are well written and I am not new to car electricity so I blame my car being a Canadian model with retrofitted HID projectors in place of the halogens... Anyone knows if the Canadian cars have the same fuses box as the american models? I tried both 90 and 92 fuses, even tried to change the polarity. I am lost!
Week-end family transporter: 2013 SHO tuxedo black, performance package, unleashed custom 94 octane tune, K&N Typhoon intake, 170F thermostat, 3 bar MAP sensor, SP534 spark plugs, 5000K HID Morimoto mini D2S projectors retrofit, tinted windows, Full LED lighting in and out, Eibach springs
Daily beater: 2002 WRX wagon swap JDM STi v7 20G'd

ZSHO

BigPelo perhaps ShoBoats thread might be more beneficial since his previous SHO was also from Canada! Dunno.  Z  :)

https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,373.0.html


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

BigPelo

Quote from: ZSHO on May 18, 2018, 02:15:40 PM
BigPelo perhaps ShoBoats thread might be more beneficial since his previous SHO was also from Canada! Dunno.  Z  :)

https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,373.0.html

Thanks for the head-up! But the thread you referred is for switchback (which I have and working since day 1 :) ) but my problem is with the daytime bright light that replace the accent "fog" light. I e-mailed Drive Bright and waiting a response.




Week-end family transporter: 2013 SHO tuxedo black, performance package, unleashed custom 94 octane tune, K&N Typhoon intake, 170F thermostat, 3 bar MAP sensor, SP534 spark plugs, 5000K HID Morimoto mini D2S projectors retrofit, tinted windows, Full LED lighting in and out, Eibach springs
Daily beater: 2002 WRX wagon swap JDM STi v7 20G'd