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"How-To" Install Alky Controls/LMS Methanol Injection Kit....

Started by bpd1151, July 05, 2013, 12:32:53 PM

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bpd1151

Here is my Official "How-To" on the installation of my Alky-Controls/LMS 100% Full Methanol Injection.

To start, I must thank the following four people for providing technical and install assistance while this project was commencing:

Mr. Rick LeBlanc (formerly of Livernois Motorsports)
Fellow EBPF Members Darrell (darelli) and Chris (crash712us) and....
Finally, Mr. Matt Hencinski, Owner of 'Auto Wizard' dba Manhattan Auto Works located in Manhattan, IL.

Without their assistance, I probably would've had a more difficult time installing this kit.

2nd, I highly recommend that this kit be installed either with the help of a professional mechanic, or exclusively by a professional.

Now that's not to imply that this can't be done individually, because it can, but in the event of "hiccups" sure is good to have a professionally trained mechanic nearby to help out with any encountered issues.

That being said, I don't plan on doing one of my traditional "How-To's" which normally encompasses a parts list, necessary tools needed, etc.

My intent on creating this thread is more or less for it to be used a mere "guideline / template" rather than an actual step by step tutorial.

Total install time was approximately 15 hours. My mechanic pal and I each worked on this project for about 3 hours, per day, for 5 days straight.

I never once pressured him to complete this with any deadline in mind and understanding that this was one of his "fun" projects that distracted him from the mundane routine of his normal repair business, I worked at his pace and was at his mercy.

I will tell you that I ended up spending almost an additional $200 in hoses, convoluted cloth tubing, extra connectors/fittings, extra wiring to complete looms from control boxes through the fire wall and to the pump, low tank sensor, etc. a pack of large, 14" zip ties, heat shrink tubing for electrical connections and finally industrial grade double sided velcro.

The kit from LMS did not include these items. The kit as I received included the following:

The Pump Itself
The Progressive Control Box
A Smaller, Control Box That Has a Test Button & Manual Knob For Activating The System
The Nozzle Itself
A 3 bar MapV Sensor
A Low Tank Sensor
An Inline Brass Filter
Brass Fitting For OEM Reservoir
Two (2) Plastic Reservoirs.... One Small One & One Medium Sized One
Two (2) LED lights..... (One Is Solid Red & Used As A Low Tank Warning Light, The Other a 2-stage LED That Illimuniates Red When The Meth Pump Is 1st Priming & Then Green When The Meth Pump Is Actually Spraying)
All Necessary Electrical Wiring Harnesses & Relays To Perform Required Connections


Top notch kit and my mechanic pal was really impressed with the relays and wiring harnesses that were provided. He was very complimentary routinely commenting on the fact that "you don't see this type of quality with most kits, very nice, good stuff here".

So it goes w/o saying that the entire front bumper clip will need to be removed, as will the airbox (whether stock, or aftermarket) as well as removing the decorative plastic engine shroud / cover.

Once that was done, we installed the pump on the driver's side, as seen in this pic below. **note, we did relocate the horns**



Next up, installed the brass fitting into the bottom of the OEM Reservoir which is now acting as the on board Methanol Tank (located on psgr side)



Then we ran all of the hoses.

1st, we used black, reinforced rubber tubing leading from the Methanol Reservoir to the Inlet side of the Meth Pump (as there's no pressure)

From the tank:



Around & towards the backside of the front frame rail:



Zip tied it to the back side of the front frame rail and ran it towards the pump on the driver's side:



Then connected it to the Meth Pump:



Next we chose to use stainless steel braided hose (expensive) to run from the Outlet Side of the Meth Pump, to the Nozzle. Rick stated that the Meth Pump operates at about, or near, 200psi thus the reason why we chose to go with this type of hose in this application:



Ran it up towards the top of the motor, but under the plastic covering so it was partially hidden, and installed the in-line filter:



We then completely removed the plastic intake as we chose to mount the spray nozzle on the UNDERSIDE of same:



Completed final hose connections here:



Next up, mounting of the Progressive Control Box, and Smaller Control Box.

1st, here's a pic of the Progressive Control Box:

Front:



Back/Reverse: **Note velcro and the battery cover looking thing on the far right in this pic**



Prior to mounting, remove the battery cover and look inside. Make sure your rheostats are set to, or look like this image below:



We chose to mount this Progressive Control Box inside the glove box, to the far right (psgr side of car) in an open cavity / well, very sneaky, but this provides ease of access in the event it should ever need to be checked or w/e in the future.... in these images below, I was contorted in some odd manner in the psgr side foot well, looking upwards at the mounting location so y'all have a point of reference in where I'm aiming the camera from:




Next, we drilled a hole in the back of the glove box itself, and then used velcro again to mount the Smaller Control Box here:



After that, we then had to drill a hole in the fire wall. The best location to do so (as provided by crash712us) is/was just slightly to the left of the steering column shaft. There's a blue piece of plastic that's at the base of the steering shaft as noted in this pic here:


bpd1151

Then we pulled all the wiring through: **Note, there's extra wires pictured here due to us installing my gauges at the same time as this Meth Kit**




Mounted the power relay / junction: **Driver's side of engine compartment, near the fuse panel / box**



An important note when tying in this power relay..... we had a b*tch of a time trying to find a true "hot" source. You will want to tie into fuse #46 inside the fuse box found on the Driver's side of the car. This will provide power when the car is in start and run modes only, but NOT when in accessory mode.

See/Refer to this wiring schematic below:



Next up, was swapping out the OEM 2 bar Map sensor with the new 3 bar MapV sensor.

I initially made the dumb mistake of swapping out the incorrect sensor. There are 2 Map sensors, one "pre" which is located within the plastic throttle body / intake pipe. You DO NOT want to switch out this one.

The CORRECT sensor to swap out is the "post" sensor which is located directly a top the intake itself. See/Refer pic below:



Also, you will need to run one of the power wires from the relay / junction box to this new 3 bar MapV sensor. You will want to tap into Pin #1.
See/Refer pic below:



We then moved onto mounting the two (2) included plastic reservoirs.

1st, we pulled the pump unit off of the OEM tank and then had to drill a hole in the bottom of the included MEDIUM sized reservoir and mount the pump onto this reservoir. This will be used as the new / replacement windshield washer fluid tank.

We also had to drill a hole into the top of this exact same tank in order to mount the included low tank sensor.

It should be noted here that the bottom edges of the black cap located at the top of this MEDIUM sized tank needed to shaved down in order to be able to screw the cap down/shut, but it also needed to be able to "clear" the diameter of the low tank sensor installed next to it.

If you look closely, you'll see the jagged edges towards the bottom of the black cap.

One last hole had to be drilled opposite of the low tank sensor hole, where we installed a plastic, 90 degree elbow fitting in order to run the tubing from this point, to the smaller, included reservoir which me and Darrell have termed the "Remote Fill Tank".

Once the three holes were drilled, and all the fittings, pumps, sensors were mounted into the tank, it looked like this:



Next, we mounted this MEDIUM sized tank, above, and next to, what used to be the OEM washer fluid tank, but is now the on board Methanol Reservoir:



We also re-wired each low tank sensor, and essentially swapped them around. This way, the OEM "Low Washer Fluid" idiot light that is found within the factory instrument panel lights up when this new / replacement tank is low on washer fluid, and then alternatively, the low tank sensor on what is now the Meth Tank will illuminate the single stage, red LED that was supplied with the kit itself.

Sleek I must say.

Next up, we had to drill a single hole into the bottom of the included SMALLER "Remote Fill Tank".

Installed a straight, plastic fitting into this hole and then ran clear plastic tubing from the bottom of this SMALLER tank, to the 90 degree elbow located at the top of the MEDIUM sized tank:




Then we mounted the smaller tank behind the coolant overflow tank, and attached it to the outside metal part of the psgr side strut tower:



One of the last things we did was to drill two small holes into the bottom portions of the gauge pod, between each of the three gauges.

I chose this location quite honestly because I didn't really like the location where Darrell had his installed.

I installed the 2 stage LED on the left, between the Trans Temp Gauge (to the far left) and the Boost Gauge (middle). This is the LED light that illuminates RED when the Meth Pump is priming, and then GREEN when it's actually spraying.

The 2nd LED, which is a single stage light that only illuminates RED, I chose to install to the right, in between the Boost Gauge (middle) and the Pyrometer Gauge (to the far right). This LED only illuminates if the Meth Tank is running low:




That pretty much completes your install.

Alky Controls DOES include a full set of instructions with the kit, however we did end up having to call Julio over there to inquire about the power relay / junction box as even though that piece was included in the kit, there was nothing about installing it found anywhere within the instructions.

I chose to err on the side of safety and installed a fire extinguisher in the trunk of my SHO just as an added measure of safety:



And of course, you know it wouldn't be me, if I didn't openly advertise my latest mod, so I also chose to completely go against the grain of the "sleeper" motif by placing this verbage just underneath my 'TWIN TURBO' decals (thanks also to ClassicCars 'Ken' for doing this):



One final note, LMS strongly recommends using the following meth fuel.... it is VP Racing's M1 100% Methanol:



I typically purchase the 5 gal containers which run me $38 + tax from my local speed shop not too far from my home.


I hope for those of you sitting on the fence about this mod, really, REALLY consider purchasing a methanol injection kit and install same into your SHO.

Y'all thought that a tune alone wakes up your car.... ha! This mod alone turns your SHO into an entirely new beast! Bar none!

Hope the 2 hours plus I spent writing up this thread is also of some use to those of you looking to install these kits yourself, or for those of you who aren't necessarily within reasonable driving distance to LMS's facility in Michigan.

Any questions, or anything I might've missed, feel free to post up, or shoot me a PM, I'll do my best to answer each as it's presented.

Enjoy :wave:

Mike :beer:

bpd1151

Oh yea, one thing I should probably mention since my original write up on this project.....

A couple of us noted that under more extreme temperatures (outside temp's of 90-100+) that our methanol was somehow being used (some theorized boiling in the lines) even when it wasn't being called for, such as under WOT conditions, etc.

Upon careful explanation with Julio over @ Alky Controls, it was determined there needed to be an addition of a check valve, which I believe was like an additional $25 if memory serves me correctly.

I'm not sure if this has since been included with the entire kit itself, but if it hasn't, be sure to ask for it, as myself and fellow EBPF member crash712us both installed them and noticed a big difference in overall meth usage.

Not only that, but the system stays properly charged, and there are no longer any issues with the meth pump priming properly (and subsequently spraying properly).


EcoBrick Bob

Great writeup... but now I know why I installed Torre's system!!!

He sent it to me with limited instructions, so I had to figure everything out.  Given my limited brain cells that are left... (I used to have about 63% of what BPD has, but am now down to 41%!) it took me several hours to figure out just how I wanted to do mine. 

I only ran one wire into the passenger compartment, and did that for the "on-off switch" thru fender and around door jam, so it could easily be removed.  Everything else is hooked up under the hood, as there is no boost controller, but instead a boost pressure switch which activates power to the methanol pump. The pump is about 1 1/2 feet from the spray nozzle and about 2 1/2 feet from the bottom of the windshield washer reservoir, which I used to hold the W/M.  Up north, most windshield washer solution contains methanol as anti-freeze due to how cheap it is in bulk, so Torrie suggested I just use that solution for my spray.  Over time I mixed higher concentrations of methanol.  I also added a filter between the reservoir and pump, as well as a light that turned on when pump was active.

I do feel that using 100% methanol is a good idea (beware of the potential fire hazard), because you know what you are spraying.  Otherwise, I would suggest one mix their own solution of water & methanol so you are consistently spraying the same percentage so your W/M special tune is performing correctly.

You can spray with stock tune, or any non-methanol tune, without any issues, but you will actually lose performance due to your vehicle running rich.  In this situation, you are actually adding a safety margin by cooling the turbo air temperature. 

Never forget that 51% and up methanol solutions are flammable, and methanol burns with an invisible flame. That is why most W/M system suppliers like Devils Own etc. recommend using 49% solutions, and only sell that version of fluid.  Also, 49% can be shipped by UPS/Fedex, where higher amounts need special handling.

I bought my 100% methanol at the drag strip ( quite cheap here in IA) and filled my own gallon jugs.  I couldn't find it at Lowes, Home Depot, any hardware stores, but I do understand some have it, at least in Canada.

To summarize. 49% W/M solutions work mostly because of their cooling characteristics, and allow higher advance settings in your tune.  In 51% and above, the methanol actually becomes extra fuel, and not only cools the charge, but becomes a part of it.
2010 Red Candy/White EB Flex.. World's first 12 second Brick.. 12.904 @ 106.85 MPH - October 2011
2009 Spt. Red G8 GT - modded. best time 12.074 & 114.02 MPH
2008 White G8 GT - mods... 8.32 1/8 mi.

Naples, FL & Clear Lake, IA
Bob has decided not to post here any more, please do not PM him he will not receive it.

SHOdded

For future reference:

Per bpd1151:  Proper Ford Part No. for the 3bar is AA5Z-9F479-B

Images courtesy of bigmoneycloser:

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Jake360



Noticed that I have this second Map sensor.. I have been in contact with LMS and ALKY about this.. I was wondering if you could share with me were you plumbed this one in at.. Nothing that I could find helps me and the pro helping me out with this..

LMS stated below : ( they refer me to this thread which I have used for the base of my project)

"My apologies for the confusion.  Here is a link to the install write up that was done in the past on one of the web forums that is very detailed step by step with photographs and diagrams.  SHO Alky Methanol Injection Install  Please let me know if this does not answer your questions completely.  The 3 bar Ford sensor we send replaces the factory 2 bar that sits on top of the intake manifold.  The GM map is used to monitor boost for the Alky system to activate the meth pump on boost."


Best regards..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ZSHO

BIG  :thankyou:     to bpd1151 who was one of the first to pioneer this platform and truly commend him & his fine efforts for this excellent detailed "writeup" and contributions to the ecoboost community throughout the years. Z  :thumb:
I basically just wanted to get an idea on the procedure since LMS is going have this kit installed very soon .Z  :)


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

ZSHO

Quote from: SHOdded on February 02, 2017, 09:30:59 AM
Red Rocket ... favored ride of the Rockettes!
Exclusive personal invite just for you kind sir. Z :)


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

derfdog15

Quote from: SHOdded on February 02, 2017, 09:30:59 AM
Red Rocket ... favored ride of the Rockettes!

I thought we were talking about car's here not...

Lol, I'm excited to see what Z can do with meth though, and I am sure he already gets the ladies with that nice SHO
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

hawkeye93

Quote from: ZSHO on February 02, 2017, 09:05:08 AM
BIG  :thankyou:     to bpd1151 who was one of the first to pioneer this platform and truly commend him & his fine efforts for this excellent detailed "writeup" and contributions to the ecoboost community throughout the years. Z  :thumb:
I basically just wanted to get an idea on the procedure since LMS is going have this kit installed very soon .Z  :)

x2.  I used his writeup extensively on my Alky/DevilsOwn/Prometh hybrid trunk install.  Pics coming soon.
2015 Ford Taurus SHO PP 12.219@112.84
PPE catless DP, Gearhead IC, SP-534, Reische 170, 3 bar, hybrid meth system, tunes from Unleashed, Livernois, Brew City Boost & AJP

1965 Ford Mustang Convertible 289 4V/T5Z/3.55
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan 272 4V/Fordomatic

bpd1151

Thank you for the thank you's fellas.

Truly appreciated. Even years later.

My pleasure has ALWAYS derived from each of you enjoying your Ecoboost' to their fullest.

Thus why I took the time to write up all the "How-To" tutorials that I have.

Continued enjoyment for many years to come!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


SHOdded

Quote from: hawkeye93 on February 02, 2017, 11:01:25 AM
x2.  I used his writeup extensively on my Alky/DevilsOwn/Prometh hybrid trunk install.  Pics coming soon.
True to his word, a followup thread here:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,7392.0.html
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Colorado-SHOBro

Any chance the pics from this how-to can be repaired?
Hate to see a valuable thread get layed to waste.
Thanks a lot photobucket :blah:
11' SHO Tuxedo Metallic black-non PP | Highly sophisticated high altitude custom AJP Turbo E30 3Bar tune w/Wastegate mod | Cat'd ceramic PPE downpipes |170 stat| SP542 plugs .028 | PP trans cooler | H&R springs | RX catch can

12.8@108 @ 6,000ft DA.