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AWD Dyno - What do I need?

Started by MileHighV, August 15, 2015, 03:25:33 PM

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MileHighV

Okay - Looking to do a baseline dyno pull (Denver metro), before I install upgrades.

I had an appointment scheduled with a local place, but they called today (4 hours before my apt!), to tell me that they can not do the pull, as there is a problem.
The AWD dyno's rollers are different sizes, and unlinked, so they are telling me that the transfer case ECU will freak out, and not let me continue to apply power - they say they tried with a different SHO a month ago, and no go.
They have a DYNOJET 248/224 Inground All-Wheel Drive, Rolling Chassis Dynamometer.

So - Trying to educate myself - What do I need to ask for from a Dyno shop?  Anyone else have dyno issues?
Anyone local to Denver had dyno pulls done on a SHO/MKS?  If so, please let me know where.

Thanks everyone!
2013 Sterling Grey SHO w/ Performance Pack
PPE Catted Downpipes, Livernois 93 tune, 3 bar MAP
EvenFlow 160º T-stat, Eibach Rear Springs, 20% tint
355hp @ wheels (444hp @ crank)

AJP turbo

#1
I've been told u need mechanically linked rollers that way u are not relying on the awd system to turn the rear rollers....I think because it's hard on the clutch packs in the rear diff and they can only transfer so much torque and the drum is heavy
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
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Former:2014 PP SHO
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405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

SHOdded

Yup, need an AWD dyno whose rollers can be linked for our platform's purposes.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Livernois Motorsports

You definitely need to ensure the dyno has linked rollers.  I cannot think of anything other than this that you would need to ask the shop other than this.  I will ask around here with the guys in wholesale to see if they know of any shops in your area that could be of assistance as well. 

EcoPowerParts

I would suggest linked but all the dynos on my car were unlinked. The key was to make sure to lightly powerbrake on take off to make sure the car engaged the PTU.
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BiGMaC

The DynoJet you list at the shop you are using should work fine.

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

Livernois Motorsports

The problem with an unlinked setup with an active differential is the car will be trying to vary the power output from front to back during the pull, which can not only cause premature wear, but drastically skews the power number since you will have a varied rate of acceleration on the drums. Older fixed AWD systems (like the old GMC typhoons) could use the free-spinning awd dyno because it was a mechanical unit. But with the haldex, and haldex type systems it does have negative consequences by running it unlinked.

MileHighV

#7
Sorry for the late reply:

I finally gave up on a pre-mod dyno run - the only linked dyno in the area was not interested in my business (never called me back after multiple messages).
I guess that two dyno runs (3 pulls each) was not enough $$ for a platform that he has never run before (seems to be an EVO shop).

I am enjoying the increased power, even though I do not have an exact number of the increase.
Definitely more power throughout the range, deeper/less raspy exhaust - I love it!!
2013 Sterling Grey SHO w/ Performance Pack
PPE Catted Downpipes, Livernois 93 tune, 3 bar MAP
EvenFlow 160º T-stat, Eibach Rear Springs, 20% tint
355hp @ wheels (444hp @ crank)

Livernois Motorsports

Quote from: MileHighV on October 08, 2015, 02:19:37 PM
Sorry for the late reply:

I finally gave up on a pre-mod dyno run - the only linked dyno in the area was not interested in my business (never called me back after multiple messages).
I guess that two dyno runs (3 pulls each) was not enough $$ for a platform that he has never run before (seems to be an EVO shop).

I am enjoying the increased power, even though I do not have an exact number of the increase.
Definitely more power throughout the range, deeper/less raspy exhaust - I love it!!

Glad to hear you enjoy the tune and mods!  I have found even working here with 2 chassis dynos that having something in writing showing you the performance is not such a big deal to most once they drive the vehicle.  To myself personally, I prefer to experience the additional power and drivability, to feel the difference before and after, rather than look at a line graph with someone telling me how great it is. 

Don't get me wrong, dyno sheets are a necessity in this industry to show potential customers how much power it could make.  But I have found most guys are more excited to get behind the wheel and cruise after their car is done rather than discuss their dyno numbers. 

Let us know if there is anything else we can help you with and hope you enjoy the ride!

PokerMunkee

Let's go to a drag strip! 

I think Pueblo is still open.
2013 SHO PP - Ignot Silver/Charcoal
Unleashed 91 tune w/ 3BAR, Corsa exhaust, LEDs everywhere
2011 F-250 6.2 CCSB FX4