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Help with draining and filling coolant

Started by pmezo33, August 17, 2015, 12:41:42 PM

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pmezo33

New member here with a 2010 MKS ecoboost.  Car has about 65k miles and i'm looking to change the coolant and start fresh.

So regarding the drain, do I just open the reservoir and radiator petcock and let it drain?  And just fill once drained?  Is it that simple?  I was going to do that a few times with distilled water until the coolant runs clear and then fill the the motorcraft specialty green.

And to purge of air once filled, just leave the reservoir cap open and let the engine run with the heat on?  I don't see a burp valve in there anywhere, so this seems the only way to purge of air to me.


ecoboostsho

Look at the thermostat swap out "how to" (in that section) for the procedure to get the air out.  You do not open the cap and just fill it.  There is a specific process and jacking up one side of the car has helped me out greatly.
2013 White SHO w/PP, Gearhead Tuned, 3 Bar, 160T, Plugs...Mess with the Bull and you'll get the Horn. :)
Previous 2011 Tuxedo Black SHO w/PP - 12.89 1/4 Mile

SHOdded

Welcome pmezo, glad to have ya here!  Like ecoboostsho said, go to this HowTo for tips & tricks.  The Lisle spillfree funnel can be a VERY good friend ;)
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,2280.0.html
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

pmezo33


BiGMaC

Be sure to use the same type of coolant as there is risk of corrosion otherwise.

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

pmezo33

Quote from: BiGMaC on August 17, 2015, 02:15:01 PM
Be sure to use the same type of coolant as there is risk of corrosion otherwise.

I'll be using the motorcraft specialty green that's already in there.  That's what lincoln used with the 10's before moving to the orange (i believe) in later years. 

Going to also replace the thermostat while I'm in there.  Anyone know if I should buy a new t-stat gasket or just reuse the current one already in there?  I'm going stock here with everything.

BiGMaC

Quote from: pmezo33 on August 17, 2015, 02:35:10 PM
Quote from: BiGMaC on August 17, 2015, 02:15:01 PM
Be sure to use the same type of coolant as there is risk of corrosion otherwise.

I'll be using the motorcraft specialty green that's already in there.  That's what lincoln used with the 10's before moving to the orange (i believe) in later years. 

Going to also replace the thermostat while I'm in there.  Anyone know if I should buy a new t-stat gasket or just reuse the current one already in there?  I'm going stock here with everything.
I just reused the on that's in there.... No problems.
As far as burping.... At some point elevating the right front of the car helps, but many still have to check the reservior level after each drive/cool down and add fluid a couple of times... A professional shop machine can prevent this, but ultimately you'll likely do a better job!

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

pmezo33

Quote from: BiGMaC on August 17, 2015, 03:17:18 PM
Quote from: pmezo33 on August 17, 2015, 02:35:10 PM
Quote from: BiGMaC on August 17, 2015, 02:15:01 PM
Be sure to use the same type of coolant as there is risk of corrosion otherwise.

I'll be using the motorcraft specialty green that's already in there.  That's what lincoln used with the 10's before moving to the orange (i believe) in later years. 

Going to also replace the thermostat while I'm in there.  Anyone know if I should buy a new t-stat gasket or just reuse the current one already in there?  I'm going stock here with everything.
I just reused the on that's in there.... No problems.
As far as burping.... At some point elevating the right front of the car helps, but many still have to check the reservior level after each drive/cool down and add fluid a couple of times... A professional shop machine can prevent this, but ultimately you'll likely do a better job!

Much appreciated.

Any tips to get all the old coolant out of there?  I was just going to drain and fill with distilled water and run the car.  I was planning on doing that until water runs clear.  Then I was going to fill 50% up with concentrated coolant to get a 50/50 of coolant/water.  When done, I was going to purge of air using the methods i'm reading about here. 

SHOdded

#8
I imagine this is the process you will be using.  This is for the radiator/cooling system in a 2007 Ford Edge, should be pretty similar.  If you do use a flush compound, should be one for aluminum radiators.  Do not put the radiators under pressure higher than 20 psi.

Draining


WARNING: Never remove the pressure relief cap under any condition while the engine is operating or when the cooling system is hot. Failure to follow these instructions can result in damage to the cooling system or engine and/or personal injury. To avoid having scalding hot coolant or steam blow out of the cooling system, use extreme care when removing the pressure relief cap from a hot degas bottle. Wait until the engine has cooled, then wrap a thick cloth around the pressure relief cap and turn it slowly one turn (counterclockwise). Step back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When certain all the pressure has been released, (still with a cloth) turn and remove the pressure relief cap.

CAUTION: The coolant must be recovered in a suitable, clean container for reuse. If the coolant is contaminated, it must be recycled or disposed of correctly.

CAUTION: All vehicle cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant. Always refill the cooling system with the same type of coolant that was drained from the system. Do not mix coolant types.


NOTE: Stop-leak style pellets/products must not be used as an additive in this engine cooling system. The addition of stop-leak style pellets/products can clog or damage the cooling system resulting in degraded cooling system performance and/or failure.

NOTE: Less than 80% of coolant capacity can be recovered with the engine in the vehicle. Dirty, rusty or contaminated coolant requires replacement.

With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Release the pressure in the cooling system by slowly turning the pressure relief cap 1/2 turn counterclockwise. When the pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.
Place a suitable container below the radiator draincock.
  Open the draincock and allow to drain.
  Close the draincock after draining.
When the coolant is drained, make sure drain plugs are installed and tight.

Filling and Bleeding with RADKITPLUS

Using the special tool, install the RADKITPLUS and follow the manufacturer's instructions to fill and bleed the cooling system.

Filling and Bleeding without RADKITPLUS

CAUTION: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at the correct concentration and fluid level in the degas bottle.

When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and distilled water.

To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:

Vehicle cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant. Always fill the cooling system with the same coolant that is present in the system. Do not mix coolant types.
Do not add/mix orange-colored Motorcraft Specialty Orange Engine Coolant or equivalent, meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D or green colored Premium Engine Coolant. Mixing coolants may degrade the coolant's corrosion protection.
Do not add alcohol, methanol or brine, or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from overheating or freezing.
Ford Motor Company does NOT recommend the use of recycled engine coolant in vehicles originally equipped with Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant since a Ford-approved recycling process is not yet available.
Used engine coolant should be disposed of in an appropriate manner. Follow your community's regulations and standards for recycling and disposing of automotive fluids.

NOTE:
Stop-leak style pellets/products must not be used as an additive in this engine cooling system. The addition of stop-leak style pellets/products can clog or damage the cooling system resulting in degraded cooling system performance and/or failure.

Open the degas bottle cap and fill the degas bottle to the MAX fill line.
Close the degas bottle cap.
CAUTION: If the engine overheats or the fluid level drops below the minimum fill line, shut off the engine and add fluid to the degas bottle maximum fill line once the engine cools.

Start the engine and let idle for 10 minutes or until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
Repeat Step 3 if necessary.
Start the engine and turn the heater to the MAX position.
CAUTION: If the engine overheats or the fluid level drops below the minimum fill line, shut off the engine and add fluid to the degas bottle maximum fill line once the engine cools.

Run the engine at 2500 rpm for 10 minutes.
Repeat Step 6 if necessary.
WARNING: Do not open the cooling system while it is hot or the engine is running. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury.

Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and fill as necessary.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

pmezo33

Quote from: SHOdded on August 17, 2015, 01:43:54 PM
Welcome pmezo, glad to have ya here!  Like ecoboostsho said, go to this HowTo for tips & tricks.  The Lisle spillfree funnel can be a VERY good friend ;)
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,2280.0.html

Regarding that lisle funnel, where are you attaching it to?  I'm not seeing a radiator cap in my 2010 MKS.  Is it going right on the degas bottle?

SHOdded

Correct, the degas bottle, whose cap has taken over the pressure relief function.  The old-fashioned radiator cap has gone the way of the dodo, sadly ...
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!