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2015 SHO charging issue

Started by FoMoCoSHO, July 31, 2015, 11:07:23 PM

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FoMoCoSHO

So....I've made mention that the Command Module voltage (via torque) on this car is typically a volt(ish) lower than the 2013 (mid 13's vs mid 14's) I just chalked it up to Quality Job 1 and carried on...

Wednesday came out to a dead battery. Replaced that and all was good (mid 14's)for about an hour then the voltage started to drop down into the 13's again. Next day started mid 13's and within 2 minutes low 12's.

Alternator replaced today and all was good then the drop started again....13's.....ugh

Went for a drive tonight and it is now steady in the 12's (12.2-12.8) unless I lift and go into decel fuel cutoff, then the voltage shoots back up to the high 13s..It's repeatable and behaves the same way every time.

Any ideas?

:banghead:

ZSHO

I was kind of skeptical about it having the same alternator,did you have the a/c on at the time it was fluctuating,also check to see if all the cables are nice and tight on the battery.  Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

FoMoCoSHO

Quote from: ZSHO on July 31, 2015, 11:14:35 PM
I was kind of skeptical about it having the same alternator,did you have the a/c on at the time it was fluctuating,also check to see if all the cables are nice and tight on the battery.  Z
Well, I tried to get pics of both but the dealership gods were not smiling upon me....sorry SHOdded!

AC has been on the entire time (Except WOT of course)

Batt is new, cables are tight.

IHeartGroceries

Is the regulator internal to the alternator?

Have you tested with just a good ol fashioned volt/multi meter? You can simulate a load test and check with a meter as well.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

2013 SHO PP

FoMoCoSHO


SHOdded

#5
No other electrical issues that you have noted?  Could be a faulty PCM, if Smart Charging is a (fuel-saving) feature on the SHO (and I assume it would be).  Is there an aftermarket alternator available that can substitute, to check to see if the alternators in your SHO are from the same batch/have a fault?

From an Edge info page:  http://www.myfordedge.com/specs/2011-ford-edge-powertrain.php

Battery management: Smart Charging

What it is: A system that allows the battery to be charged or discharged at optimal opportunities instead of allowing the alternator to continuously charge the battery independent of customer use, which wastes energy. Smart Charging increases the alternator output when the vehicle brakes or decelerates, converting the vehicle's kinetic (motion) energy into electric energy without having to use additional fuel.

How it helps: The "free" electric current is used to recharge the battery so that it can be used by the electrical systems later. This could be when the engine is switched off during a stop or when the alternator is operating in a less efficient mode. The battery's advanced management system continually monitors its status and communicates with Ford's aggressive deceleration fuel shutoff system so the regenerative charging feature can charge the battery in the optimal way. The decel system knows how much battery charge is available so that it can leave the engine running if the battery does not have a sufficient level of charge.

Longer battery life, reliable starts: Smart Charging improves the life of the battery because it keeps the battery at a more consistent level of charge, which in turn aids in reliable starting. The one-touch starting in the 2011 Ford Edge enables starts of around seven-tenths of a second with precise fuel delivery for maximum fuel economy and minimal emissions.

Another post in the Edge forum pointed out this article (http://www.diagnosticnews.com/parasitic-battery-drains/) and says the Battery Management System might need to be reset, I guess to "learn" the new battery.

"NOTE: When the battery (or PCM) is disconnected and connected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The charging system set point may also vary. The vehicle may need to be driven to relearn its strategy.
   
  • Disconnect the battery. For additional information, refer to Battery Disconnect in this section.
  • Remove the bolt and the battery hold-down bracket.
    • To install, tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
  • Remove the battery.
    To install, reverse the removal procedure.
  • Carry out the Battery Monitoring System (BMS) Reset using the scan tool after the battery is connected. If the BMS Reset is not carried out, it takes approximately 8 hours for the Body Control Module (BCM) to learn the new battery state of charge. During this 8 hour period, the vehicle must be undisturbed, with no doors opened or keyless entry button presses. If the vehicle is used before the BCM is allowed to learn the new battery state of charge, engine off load shedding can still occur and a message may be displayed."
From the F150 forum:

Performing a BMS reset will reset the battery SOC to a default of 85%- regardless of its true state of charge and reset the SOC drain timers. This should get you out of load shed. The following is the procedure using the Diagnostic Engineering tool.

BMS reset procedure with Ford "Diagnostic Engineering Tool":
Go to Gen Diagnostics and select Module ID to 726 (BCM)
Select Service 0X10 and extendedDiagnosticSession, and press "Send Message" button
Select Service 0X31
Check "User Defined" box, and type in "201A"
Press "Send Message" button


Ford Quick Tips: #3 Checking Alternator Voltage On 2011+ Fords
About 6:10, talks more about the BMS.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

glock-coma

Wow good info SHOdded.
I guess it's not as easy as just swapping out a battery anymore.
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

SHOdded

#7
I think this applies to the 2013+ models.  I can't find a defining article that says when this was implemented in the Taurus line.  I guess I need to revisit the product brochures :)

EDIT:  I do see mention of a Battery Saver in the 2010, so the info may apply to 2010-12 as well.

http://www.ford.com/services/assets/Brochure?make=Ford&model=Taurus&year=XXXX&postalCode=
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

ecoboostsho

The voltage in my 2013 seems "different" than my 2011. The 2011 was almost always a consistent 14+ when running down the road. The 2013 seems to vary a lot more and will dip into the mod 13s quite a bit. So far car runs great and no other issues so it seems "okay"?
2013 White SHO w/PP, Gearhead Tuned, 3 Bar, 160T, Plugs...Mess with the Bull and you'll get the Horn. :)
Previous 2011 Tuxedo Black SHO w/PP - 12.89 1/4 Mile

SHOdded

Okay, so the Battery Saver does this:

Battery saver
The battery saver will shut off the lamps 10 minutes after the ignition
has been turned off.
• If the dome lamps were turned on using the panel dimmer control, the
battery saver will shut them off 10 minutes after the ignition has been
turned off.
• If the courtesy lamps were turned on because one of the vehicle doors
or the trunk was opened, the battery saver will shut them off
10 minutes after the ignition has been turned off.
• The battery saver will shut off the headlamps 10 minutes after the
ignition has been turned off.
Accessory mode battery saver for intelligent access keys with
push button start (if equipped)
If you shut off the engine and leave the ignition in the on or accessory
mode, the ignition will shut off after 30 minutes.

Nothing to do with the BMS.  Is the BMS part of the BCM or the PCM or completely separate ...
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

FoMoCoSHO

Not sure SHOdded, but I will try to find out.

AJP turbo

Fomo check your email. I sent 2. One email has pics....There is a scalar for the alternator. Some things you might find interesting. They are all stock settings....It's a very active system...
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

FoMoCoSHO

According to that, I have nothing to be concerned about.

The problem with that is that something has changed, and i want to know wtf it is, lol.....

I think heat is causing the issue, it's not acting up until I've been driving a while and the IAT's start to get hot.

93Cobra

Have the dealer do the Battery Monitor System reset. This should solve your problems. I had to do this on my 2012 F150 Ecoboost and all was solved.
** Note - when swapping the battery, you must have the dealer reset the monitor. This is not something you can do at home.

AJP turbo

I thought when u do a kam reset all the monitors are reset...under special functions on an sct x3 or x4 select kam reset.....that resets the keep alive memory....all of my monitors reset with that
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress