PTU fluid change on 13+ PP

[91hybrid]

When I bought my '14 PP new I decided on a 20,000 mile ptu fluid change interval. I purposely bought a pp to get the ptu cooling and a drain plug. Now that I'm at 20,000 miles, it's time for a flush.

I must say this was much more difficult on the 13+ pp than my '11. The reason is that the full hole is occupied by the temp sensor. It is impossible to get out with the rear down pipe on.

This is not a how-to; but here are some pointers to anyone with a water cooler ptu and a temp sensor.

First I pulled the down pipe. Pretty straight forward.

You will see that the temp sensor (just above the cv shaft) has a heat shield. The heat shield is held on by two of the water cooler cavity screws (torx). Only loosen the very top torx and the one just below it (next to the turbo Inlet). The reason you only loosen them is that the lower bolt location is slotted so that the heat shield will slide up out of the way. The top hole is solid so it does not fall out. I used a t-27 on mine with a swivel and a 6" extension. That may have been slightly small but it worked;may actually be a t-30.

Once you have the heat shield out of the way it's almost impossible to loosen the temp sensor. After 15 minutes of starring and trying countless wrenches, I finally developed this sollution:



It is a 15mm crows foot with a short extension and a swivel. This allows you to slide in between the cooling jacket, cv shaft, and turbo oil return line. Worked perfectly!







Once you get the sensor out, then you can pull the drain plug with a 1/4" Allen.

Here is what mine looked like after 20,000 miles!





It should look like this when it drains:





It was great that as soon as I pulled the drain plug, all the black oil came flowing out. I flushed it a little with solvent and then pumped some new oil to flush the solvent out. Once it was flushed I cleaned and replaced the drain plug I filled the ptu until it flowed out the temp sensor hole. I actually got all 500+ ml in it!

Put everything else back in reverse order. Made sure to put the temp sensor wires back in its two holder clips (one on the water cavity cover, and one on the cooler lines above the rear output shaft). Remounted the down pipe and now she's good for another 20,000.

Hope this saves someone else some time and irritation.

John


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[ZSHO]

Great writeup John,knew you had to remove the DP in order to get to it,did you end up using the oem fluid and how long did it take cause its definetly on my list with 27k on her,thanks. Z

[91hybrid]

Yeah, I used motorcraft 75-140 full synthetic. As far as time, well that's a little skewed as I had to run to the parts store twice in my dads 512 cubic inch Plymouth...so I enjoyed myself. 😏  I probably worked on it for about 3 hours without starts and stops. If I did it again, I could probably cut that time in half knowing what I know now. Definitely worth it though. Oil was black! But it was still oil and hadn't turned to sludge yet. I think 20k is pretty reasonable for the effort and the ptu unit health.

[SHOdded]

Nicely done!  Notice any performance improvement as a result?

[91hybrid]

Probably just the placebo effect.  Seem to roll a tad it better, but is probably all in my head.

[ZSHO]

It would of been great if we all changed the PTU fluid prior to installing DP,especially on the performance package,eliminating time and money but eventually we all have to do it again,life time fluid ha.lol. Z

[ShoBoat]

Probably just the placebo effect.  Seem to roll a tad it better, but is probably all in my head.

I think you are correct, I also noticed when I had mine changed that it seemed to be smoother. Especially on the freeway. Great write up!


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[JagerBomb]

I might have to do this since I got an AWD warning light.  No idea when it was done last or ever. 

[BlackJac]

Took my 15 XSport to the dealer yesterday to change the PTU fluid, and after about 45 minutes they come get me to tell me that they can't find the drain or fill. I told them where they were and they couldn't do it that late in the day and of course the cost was going to be more than the $89 they quoted me. So, looks like I'll be doing it myself. I only have about 13,000 miles on it, but don't want to wait until it's bad.

I had an idea and wonder what you guys think?

If I remove the drain plug and install an oil drain valve something on the lines of this valve with getting the correct size fitting or adapting one. http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-108N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCB9WC

Then I would just drain the oil. Connect a fill hose to the valve, and pump clean oil back in, then close the valve, and remove the fill hose. Done.

[66 Galaxie]

One problem with your idea of just using the drain plug opening is that without removing the fill plug you can't know if you have the right amount of fluid in the PTU.

Also, this write up is for a Performance Package SHO which has the cooling unit.

IIRC Explorers do not come with the cooler unless it is a police interceptor so when you look under your car you should be able to see and access the fill plug as well as the drain plug.

Note that you should make sure you can remove your fill plug before draining the fluid.

[BlackJac]

One problem with your idea of just using the drain plug opening is that without removing the fill plug you can't know if you have the right amount of fluid in the PTU.

Also, this write up is for a Performance Package SHO which has the cooling unit.

IIRC Explorers do not come with the cooler unless it is a police interceptor so when you look under your car you should be able to see and access the fill plug as well as the drain plug.

Note that you should make sure you can remove your fill plug before draining the fluid.

My XSport has the PTU cooler, same as described above with the temp sensor. I looked and it's there, same as the pictures above.

Since the capacity is 1.1 pints of 75w 140, should be able to drain it and add the same amount back in.

[SHOdded]

Depending on the condition of the fluid and the actual factory fill, you may not get 1.1 pints out.  If the fluid is flowing OK, I would do at least 2 changes:  #1 with the same amount as came out so you can run the PTU for a short while and emulsify whatever might be remaining into suspension, and #2 with the 1.1 pints (or thereabouts) for the final fill.  Not a perfect way to do it, because level should always be checked after the fill, but ... 

Also consider using a product other than Motorcraft if you can.  Royal Purple & Amsoil are leading contenders.

[ecoboostsho]

So I am taking my 2013 PP in next week to have it flushed.  I let him know on the phone that they have to drop the downpipe to get to it and he seemed to know that but I forgot to ask them what it would cost so I guess I have to call back.  He made a statement that the 2013 PP's have "Less fluid" in them then the non-PPs?  I guess that's possible but I don't know that I am buying it??  Does anyone know if the service manual calls for different fluid amounts? 

The whole conversation left me with an uneasy feeling...LOL

[SHOdded]

The manual doesn't state 2 different specs for PP vs non-PP.  It may be that factory fill is less in the PP (doesn't make sense), but at service, OM spec should be followed.

18 oz or 0.53L of 75w140

[ZSHO]

Thats very odd indeed,you would figure the PP would take more fluid not less,had my RDU performed at the dealer a while back and the manuel calls for 2.4 pints but with the car running on and off on the lift he ended up using a total of two quarts and pretty much a simple process not like the PTU. Z