• Welcome to Ecoboost Performance Forum. Please log in or sign up.
collapse

Anyone change their transmission fluid yet...

Started by ddlopes, February 24, 2015, 11:29:51 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

FoMoCoSHO


AJP turbo

I dumped my fluid the first month. LV is low viscosity. So it's thinner for fuel economy I guess. Someone earlier said thicker If I recall.

You don't have to use motorcraft at all, the fluid you use just has to meet the ford spec and then even if it doesn't ford would have their hands full denying warranty problems. To those of you that think otherwise I feel bad for you. They actually have to prove that the fluid is the problem and simply saying that it's the wrong brand or doesn't meet spec isn't enough of an argument. I can did up some old threads but some of you will either accept that answer or never accept it and the argument will be a waste of my time. Amsoil users have already proved this. A lot of automatic trannies are using LV fluid so it's not an exclusive fluid to Ford or the SHO for that matter.

Anyway one of the few ATF's out there that actually use a true type IV synthetic base stock is Amsoil. The others are a refined hydrocracked petroleum that is marketed at synthetic when it's really not but the big oil companies get away with calling it synthetic.

Read up on group III and group IV/V oils they are different animals and there is no question on superiority when you have the facts.

I can't say I feel or hear any difference in having all synthetics in my car and it's not cheap. Actually when you use the oil and fluid the proper length of time it's actually comparable and the protection is better and I run the piss out of my car so I like it.

Motorcraft fluids have proven to shear or lose viscosity really bad through used oil analysis  by 3rd party testing. So I really lost faith in MC after seeing the test data.

Its big in the mustang world where my GT track pack recommended 5w-50 MC synthetic and it sheared to a near 30 weight after only 1000 miles, that's not good. Group IV synthetic base stocks simply won't shear.
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

SHOdded

#17
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on February 24, 2015, 10:42:05 PM
My owners manual says 150K.
I suggest to anyone that actually likes to put the pedal to the metal and/or does a lot of city/stopngo driving to read past the "normal operating conditions" section to the "special operating conditions" section.  Decide then what interval is suitable for you.  Keep a log of transmission temperatures to see what range the fluid is spending its' life in.  Are you allowing the trans to warm up fully before getting on it?  Or are you content to do so with only the engine warmed up to operating temp?

Normal Operating Temperature is where the transmission fluid is working at peak efficiency.  It will likely take forever to get to that point if you are not driving the vehicle.  So drive, but at least stay out of heavy throttle until then.  This (the extreme) is where true synthetic ATF has an advantage over mineral/semi-synthetics.
I do believe the 2013+ PP/PI have improved oil/trans fluid cooling over the 2010-12.  Hence, bpd's HowTo for the upgrade.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

painterpatt

Koolaid drinkin, Flex drivin !!

TSS

Well, having a tune myself, and the way I drive as a result, I consider it Heavy Duty.  Doing mine every 25k miles....thats 2.5 years for me....I know I am over maintaining....
2010 Steel Blue Metallic MKS Ecoboost: LME 3-Bar Tuned; tint; 20" Factory rims Permachromed

2017 Summit White Buick Envision Premium AWD 2.0 Turbo
2017 Silver Cadillac XTS V-Sport Platinum  3.6 Twin Turbo; LME tuned.

FoMoCoSHO

Quote from: ajpturbo on February 24, 2015, 11:25:21 PM
I dumped my fluid the first month. LV is low viscosity. So it's thinner for fuel economy I guess. Someone earlier said thicker If I recall.

You don't have to use motorcraft at all, the fluid you use just has to meet the ford spec and then even if it doesn't ford would have their hands full denying warranty problems. To those of you that think otherwise I feel bad for you. They actually have to prove that the fluid is the problem and simply saying that it's the wrong brand or doesn't meet spec isn't enough of an argument. I can did up some old threads but some of you will either accept that answer or never accept it and the argument will be a waste of my time. Amsoil users have already proved this. A lot of automatic trannies are using LV fluid so it's not an exclusive fluid to Ford or the SHO for that matter.

Anyway one of the few ATF's out there that actually use a true type IV synthetic base stock is Amsoil. The others are a refined hydrocracked petroleum that is marketed at synthetic when it's really not but the big oil companies get away with calling it synthetic.

Read up on group III and group IV/V oils they are different animals and there is no question on superiority when you have the facts.

I can't say I feel or hear any difference in having all synthetics in my car and it's not cheap. Actually when you use the oil and fluid the proper length of time it's actually comparable and the protection is better and I run the piss out of my car so I like it.

Motorcraft fluids have proven to shear or lose viscosity really bad through used oil analysis  by 3rd party testing. So I really lost faith in MC after seeing the test data.

Its big in the mustang world where my GT track pack recommended 5w-50 MC synthetic and it sheared to a near 30 weight after only 1000 miles, that's not good. Group IV synthetic base stocks simply won't shear.
You make many valid points.

i had some issues many moons ago with "high performance" MT fluid and really haven't messed with anything other than oil since.

I'm a huge Amsoil fan and am currently running signature 0-30 at 5k intervals. Since I need oil, I guess I will order some tranny fluid.

jtoddk98

I had the dealer do a trans drain and fill on my car while it was in for injectors. Massive difference in shifting. Much smoother and it doesn't slip into second at high rpm. I just went with the Motorcraft mercon lv since I am now going to do 25k mile drain intervals


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2011 Taurus SHO Performance Package. EBC Stage 4 Brakes. Blacked out chrome. #130 of 602 in Ingot Silver

boostedflex

Similar here, I do my tranny every 30k (getting close to me second), ptu every 15k, and oil every 7.5.  Being tuned I want to give the components the best possible chance of survival :)
2017 Explorer Sport
Stock

2012 Flex, sold
Unleashed 93 tune, 170 degree t-stat, Airaid intake, Motorcraft SP534 plugs

FoMoCoSHO

I did a drain and fill on the new one with 150 miles on the clock.

Amsoil LV

I figure since im severe duty, will do it every year.

Car took 6 qts.

glock-coma

I thought there was like 13 quarts in the tranny...
Or is that the total capacity including torque converter?
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

SHOdded

Sounds like FoMoCoSHO is doing an incremental drain & fill over 3 years?
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

FoMoCoSHO

Yup, yearly maintenance. Will do the PTU at the same time.