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A Little Help on a Strange Occurrence

Started by BiGMaC, December 20, 2014, 08:01:05 PM

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BiGMaC

Suggestions please... I had a very unusual occurrence with a clicking or better described as a ratchet noise... loud inside the car and same tempo as a ratchet wrench at 2-4 mph. I was making a left turn from a stop... rolled to the esplanade the turned the wheel and hit about 1/2-2/3 throttle quickly. The noise was the front of the car. I had just hit the throttle and the car lifted, then the noise and the car sat down with a loss of power. Engine kept running. Noise lasted 2-3 seconds tops and hasn't reoccured.  Then after I let off the gas, reapplied the throttle and off we went. Of course i went easy (for me) at first. no changes in sound or performance since. No CEL. Fluids are all fine and I inspected under the hood and around the wheels with no findings. sounded like gears that weren't meshed, but slower than an old shift without the clutch noise. All the grannies were on.

Any thoughts on this? Did I just confuse the car?...hubs?...other?

It is in warranty (7year extended Ford BTB) and I have 7 years prepaid maintenance through Ford... Oil and tires due in about 500 miles. I'd rather not change the MAP and flash to stock... but if I go to the dealer for the above complaint, of course, I will. I have tried to reproduce the sound and events, but can't.

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

SHOnUup

Maybe to much torque getting to the wheels while turned, gives the car the impression of rollover and cuts the power.

Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

SHOdded

Well, thinking out loud, reasons for these sounds:
Blend door actuator
Hubs
Halfshaft

Now, if you had the wheels off recently, I would check the wheel speed sensors/brake lines for interference/binding.

You experienced loss of power but no CEL?  Codes could still have been set.  Don't know if the MyCal pulls these up?  If the engine had cut out, I would have added throttle body into the mix, doesn,'t seem the case here though.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

SHOnUup

Think the noise could've been from the traction control?

Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

SHOnUup

How about an audible reenactment of said noise via youtube for our enjoyment...I mean troubleshooting. ;)

Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

BiGMaC

Quote from: SHOnUup on December 20, 2014, 09:48:51 PM
How about an audible reenactment of said noise via youtube for our enjoyment...I mean troubleshooting. ;)

Rich

When you were a kid did you ever put playing cards into the spokes of your bicycle tire to sound like a motor... sounded like that

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

BiGMaC

#6
about 4500 miles since tire rotation, pretty sure it's not the environmental stuff (blend door)... that shouldn't have prevented getting full power.  Had the Half-shaft TSB checked with last oil change... told OK and no work done.

Hubs is my honest thought, but the car must have sensed something to pull all the power... It must be what the "limp mode" is like... Problem is that it was very quick and short lived, but potentially dangerous if not damaging to the car.  No vibration, just the noise and loss of power. Nothing unusual in a hundred miles since.  I may get in a parking lot and turn wheels fairly hard to the left then give it throttle again.... just don't want to break anything.

I will plug in the MyCal... it reads DTCs as a first activity... and see if it says anything.  Feel dumb for not having done it already.

Had a half full gas tank... think I could have sloshed feel away from the pump... still there was the noise.

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

MDesign Performance

I call hubs, I have the same powerless and clicking though my car finally threw the code for the hub. It's the driver side for me, you can hear audible noises while turning right. Found the OEM hubs for $90 so it's on my to do list.
2011 MKS EcoBoost: MDesign Carbon Cold Air Intake; SP-534 Plugs; Power Stop C/S Rotors

sales@mdesignperformance.com
www.mdesignperformance.com
www.facebook.com/MDesignPerformance

SHOdded

#8
Just to add to the confusion:  Rust on components attached to the wheel, and loose lug nuts (esp aftermarket) have been found to be culprits for this type of sound.  The CV joint/boot is also pointed to frequently.
http://www.fordf150.net/forums/#p686128
http://www.f150forum.com/f4/ratcheting-type-clicking-noise-coming-left-front-wheel-108657/
Tie rods, anyone?
http://www.fordfusion.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1312#p9116
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=139722
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

ZSHO

#9
I would check the strut tower/bearing,a bad strut will probably setoff the speed sensor and activate advancetrack,limpmode,also while back replaced the wheel hubs and TSB-13-5-14 for thrust washers,here is a sample video on the click sound courtesy of SHOboat  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUAaGRR7zIA&feature=youtu.be


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

SHOnUup

The clicking while turning is a very common noise that comes from the CV joint.

Hub would give you an audible hum while driving, with a change in severity based on turning direction.

I'm thinking you tricked the car with the TCS on. Made it think rollover and cut power, noise coming from TCS. I was informed when getting my tune, that I should keep the TCS off if I was planning on aggressive driving in traffic. The amount of torque created with the tune could produce this limp mode action with a hard turn combined with heavy gas pedal.

Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.