Frustrating Brakes

elund126 · September 04, 2014, 04:14:58 PM

I just had my rotors turned and put EBC Red Stuff pads up front. Before, there was no pulsating, now, horrible pulsating and TONS of brake dust. My rotors were only a year old so I'm pretty confident that they weren't warped. I'm pounding my head to figure it out. What should I check? Ideas?

Brucelinc · September 04, 2014, 04:22:22 PM

I presume the rotors are original equipment? I am not sure they would be a great match for more aggressive pads. In any case, dull bits in the turning lathe can cause a poor job on the rotors. It sounds like that might have happened. Just a thought...I would check with whoever turned them.

elund126 · September 04, 2014, 04:30:40 PM

I bought the rotors in April 2013. They are Centric rotors sold by Stop Tech.

Maybe I should explain further. Going about 40, light to medium brakes, a lot of pulsing. Press down on the brake pedal harder, no pulsing. This is boggling me.

Could it be that the pads just haven't set yet?

SHOdded · September 04, 2014, 07:11:59 PM

Even with new (& properly seated) pads, pulsing should not happen. My guess is that turning the rotors created a somewhat uneven surface that is dampened by heavier braking. Hopefully the pads will wear in properly to the rotors, but I'd have the rotor thickness/runout checked anyway.

glock-coma · September 04, 2014, 07:18:37 PM

If you have the equipment you need to check rotor runout.
You could alway try to pull the rotors off and turn Them 180* and reinstall.

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crash712us · September 04, 2014, 08:15:35 PM

Also make sure mating surfaces are cleaned. Hub and inside of rotor.

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elund126 · September 05, 2014, 08:10:40 PM

Figured it out......old rotors warped. New rotors solved the problem. I guess that's what I get for trying to save a few bucks and having the old ones turned.

SHOdded · September 06, 2014, 01:16:03 AM

What did you go with for rotors this time?

ZSHO · September 06, 2014, 09:56:49 AM

An overlooked issue with new or old rotors vibrating is over torquing the wheel bolts with a torque gun can cause the rotors to warp and some cases damage the hub flange,some mechanics when over tightning the bolts they tighten them out of sequence causing the rotors to be off balance and then lead to vibration at highway speeds,another issue is when installing the bolts they should be done in a pattern for example first is 12oclock then 6 oclock position and installed by hand then follow your vehicle torque specs which usually is about 90lbs of torque.

elund126 · September 06, 2014, 11:42:30 AM

Quote from: SHOdded on September 06, 2014, 01:16:03 AM
What did you go with for rotors this time?

This will probably make a few people cringe, but, I went with Ford OEM rotors. It wasn't my first choice, but being a daily driver and only having one day off of work, I couldn't wait for shipping, so I had to pick some up at the dealership. My alternatives were Autozone or O-Reilly's, so it was a pretty easy choice.

elund126 · September 06, 2014, 11:44:23 AM

Quote from: ZSHO on September 06, 2014, 09:56:49 AM
An overlooked issue with new or old rotors vibrating is over torquing the wheel bolts with a torque gun can cause the rotors to warp and some cases damage the hub flange,some mechanics when over tightning the bolts they tighten them out of sequence causing the rotors to be off balance and then lead to vibration at highway speeds,another issue is when installing the bolts they should be done in a pattern for example first is 12oclock then 6 oclock position and installed by hand then follow your vehicle torque specs which usually is about 90lbs of torque.

This is one of the first lessons my dad taught me when I was a young pup!!

SHOdded · September 06, 2014, 10:41:16 PM

Quote from: ZSHO on September 06, 2014, 09:56:49 AM
An overlooked issue with new or old rotors vibrating is over torquing the wheel bolts with a torque gun can cause the rotors to warp and some cases damage the hub flange ...

Noteworthy point!

Quote from: elund126 on September 06, 2014, 11:42:30 AM
This will probably make a few people cringe, but, I went with Ford OEM rotors.

I still believe pads are the primary issue, then the booster/master cylinder. Rotors should work out fine.

elund126 · September 09, 2014, 11:46:12 AM

After 4 days of driving with the EBC red and Ford rotors, I can say that the braking feels stronger than it ever has! And, I hear the EBC doesn't really "break in" for awhile....

glock-coma · September 09, 2014, 12:24:06 PM

Usually takes about 500-1000 miles of "normal" driving before you can start the final brake in process. Just don't heat them up to much before that or you'll toast those new rotors/pads.

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