might be stopping by LMS today.

sunwolf · August 06, 2014, 12:24:35 PM

I have to run down by LMS today and I was thinking of stopping by. I called them the other day and they highly recommend a 160* thermostat. I want my car to be as easy as possible to return to stock when I take it to the dealer. Are people doing fine with a 3bar and a tune with the stock 185* thermostat? Also will a 160* kill my fuel economy?

PokerMunkee · August 06, 2014, 12:29:58 PM

If you are going to be running LMS's V8 3bar 93 octane tune, get the 160*. They require it now. The dealer won't know.

If you have to go back to dealer, just swap out the 3bar (2 minutes) and flash back to stock (5 mins).

I don't know about MPG effect, wouldn't think it would be noticeable.

ZSHO · August 06, 2014, 01:28:23 PM

If you live down south or in warmer climates go with the 160 stat,but personaly would stick with the 170 REISCHE stat for all weather applications.

LivernoisMotorsports · August 06, 2014, 01:32:27 PM

Nobody would know unless you told them that the T-Stat was there. We require it because more boost=more heat

, lower running temps=more efficiency and more power

. It is a simple formula that we live by.

When it comes to flashing the car back to stock, we advise that you load the stock tune and then disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes before driving in. This wipes the RAM of the computer.

Quote from: sunwolf on August 06, 2014, 12:24:35 PM
I have to run down by LMS today and I was thinking of stopping by. I called them the other day and they highly recommend a 160* thermostat. I want my car to be as easy as possible to return to stock when I take it to the dealer. Are people doing fine with a 3bar and a tune with the stock 185* thermostat? Also will a 160* kill my fuel economy?

sunwolf · August 06, 2014, 08:06:13 PM

Stopped by earlier and they said that 3 bar is not that big of a deal. Recomended Cai and a tune for $940 which should get me 130 more whp. Think I might have to get it soon especially since woodward dream cruse is coming up.

BiGMaC · August 07, 2014, 12:38:39 AM

Quote from: sunwolf on August 06, 2014, 08:06:13 PM
Stopped by earlier and they said that 3 bar is not that big of a deal. Recomended Cai and a tune for $940 which should get me 130 more whp. Think I might have to get it soon especially since woodward dream cruse is coming up.

Interesting.... I spoke with Dan himself on the phone some time ago after I went to the 3BAR to verify improvements I had noticed and discuss another mod... Regarding the 3BAR MAP he told me....and I quote him, "it runs better because that's how it should have been done to start with". I definitely notice an improvement and on the track it has been worth a solid .4 sec in the quarter with documented improvements of .47 sec seen.

Get the tune, get PPE downpipes from 4DR, add the catback, but skip the CAI IMHO. Many have documented slower performance than stock.... During DP development with 4DR we dynoed my 13 SHO with hood up, big fan on it, ambient temp about 70 degrees, and with the stock intake and filter completely removed as wel as with it on. We found no difference in performance. Several folks have back to back runs with AM intake .1 sec slower in the quarter.... Which they got back by returning to OEM stock. If you just want eye candy and more turbo noise, the real reason for the major CAIs (K&N or Airaid), then go for it, but don't expect more performance...

PokerMunkee · August 07, 2014, 12:53:05 AM

I agree with BigMac.

- Tune $500
- Down Pipes w/ cats $800
- Corsa exhaust $1285
- 3Bar MAP Sensor $60
- K&N Drop In Filter $50 (until someone develops a proven CAI w/ track results)
- 160* T-stat $80

That will get you a solid and reliable ~12.5@110mph car.

See if LMS will install catback and down pipes for $2000 out the door if you buy their tune. Seems reasonable to me, 2 hours tops.

ZSHO · August 07, 2014, 07:02:56 AM

If you look at there installed packages they are not cheap?

SHOdded · August 07, 2014, 07:12:52 AM

When you have a brick and mortar store, the admin/overhead costs rise a lot and have to be recouped somehow. Yes, there is the LME name cachet built in, but the idea is you pay for quality & no headaches. In that context, if you are not a DIY'r or do not have a trusted mechanic to do your installs, the price is worth it.

That said, if you are willing to take these jobs on yourself, we have some HOW TO articles that can be of assistance. I would encourage all our members with experience in these installs to add tips & tricks they consider useful/undocumented. TIA.

Livernois Motorsports · August 07, 2014, 07:47:10 PM

As mentioned above, the 160 stat is definitely something we recommend, even for cars with just a basic tune can benefit from the 160. We developed a 160 as a 170 was only about 6-8* cooler than stock, and while it was better than leaving it stock, we knew we needed to get it cooler than that for the best balance of power and durability.

As for the cold weather comments, Michigan gets well into the negative temps in the winter, and not once have any of our cars had problems with heat, or how they run with this setup, nor have any of our customers. The EcoBoost cars computer deems it full temp well before 160 even when completely stock.

Another benefit, beyond engine performance, is fan life expectancy. With a 170 stat, the fan will cycle off on on more frequently due to the thermostat being so close to OEM temperatures, so when we command the fans to try to regulate the temp to where it should be, it is very close to the thermostat temp. By using a 160, it allows for the engine to naturally stay in that range without forcing the fans on so often.

sunwolf · August 08, 2014, 12:57:54 PM

Went ahead and got the 93 octane tune so far. I might get one of those package deals later. The tune is good so far but I will give it 100 miles to calibrate before I judge it completely.

SHOnUup · August 08, 2014, 01:01:45 PM

Quote from: Livernois Motorsports on August 07, 2014, 07:47:10 PM
As mentioned above, the 160 stat is definitely something we recommend, even for cars with just a basic tune can benefit from the 160. We developed a 160 as a 170 was only about 6-8* cooler than stock, and while it was better than leaving it stock, we knew we needed to get it cooler than that for the best balance of power and durability.

As for the cold weather comments, Michigan gets well into the negative temps in the winter, and not once have any of our cars had problems with heat, or how they run with this setup, nor have any of our customers. The EcoBoost cars computer deems it full temp well before 160 even when completely stock.

Another benefit, beyond engine performance, is fan life expectancy. With a 170 stat, the fan will cycle off on on more frequently due to the thermostat being so close to OEM temperatures, so when we command the fans to try to regulate the temp to where it should be, it is very close to the thermostat temp. By using a 160, it allows for the engine to naturally stay in that range without forcing the fans on so often.

Great reasoning for the 160*. After having the 160* for awhile I wondered about getting the 170* so the fan wouldn't be on "all" the time. This eases the mind a bit.