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Torque PIDs...Take 2

Started by ecoboostsho, June 07, 2014, 07:59:06 PM

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FoMoCoSHO

Quote from: ecoboostsho on March 29, 2015, 07:32:48 AM
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on March 29, 2015, 06:06:01 AM
So has anybody figured out what the LOR # correlates to?

Obviously something with the octane...

It just sat at 100 with the 13 no matter the blend, but the 15 it has been as high as 129 with an unknown fuel octane/quality.
Are you still stock? In my experience LOR starts around 129 and then heads down to 100 as it learns. I don't know that it actually represents percent Octane but the fact that it is learning. Once it hits 100 it will stay there unless you unplug the battery for a length of time or tune it and then it will start over. That is the best I have been able to figure out and it is just a guess honestly.

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
Yeah, this is exactly what happened but it didn't go below 117 till I filled up with V-power.

I had a crapload of +KR before i filled up so I assume it was 87...

I would say that if your LOR goes above 100, that could mean you got a tank of bad or mislabeled gas....so it does have a good use.

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

sunwolf

Wait so lower LOL is good? Mine went up when I added some corn.
2014 Taurus SHO Black Performance Pack LMS tune 3bar tstat downpipes
2008 BMW M6 Convertible SMG
2008 F-150 XLT 4x4 5.4L
2011 F-150 Ecoboost Crew Cab 4x4
2012 Lincoln Navigator L 4x4

glock-coma

Quote from: sunwolf on April 01, 2015, 09:36:23 AM
Wait so lower LOL is good? Mine went up when I added some corn.
same here. It was at 129 then slowly worked its way down and stayed @ 102 until I refilled.
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

SHOdded

#604
100 is theoretically ideal per the manufacturer's POV, once the new fuel is "relearned" after fillup.  Now what fuel they use exactly to set this ratio, not sure, but fair game to say E10, as that seems to be the standard in most of the country now.  I am sure they allow some variance for quality of fuel, but the "ideal" 100 point will vary by actual fuel in use, which is where tuning comes into play, altering the fuel & spark tables accordingly.  That's why you have 87/89/91/93 and beyond tunes.  You definitely don't want to run less octane than the tune calls for, but more is ok, up to a point, for example. 

Want to set up your own spark table?  Here's a simple way to do it, courtesy of MegaSquirt:
http://www.useasydocs.com/theory/spktable.htm
Principles of Tuning Programmable EFI Systems - MegaSquirt:
http://www.megamanual.com/begintuning.htm
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

ecoboostsho

Interesting article.  I found an article by Cobb for the Subaru that was pretty similar.  I could probably "adjust" the formula so the gauge indicated -1 in Torque (instead of 100%) and 129 would be "0" - at least from my experience.  That said I don't really know that the behavior we've seen exactly matches up to this on the current gauge so I'm not sure changing the scale/display really help?  I will probably try it on mine and report back.
2013 White SHO w/PP, Gearhead Tuned, 3 Bar, 160T, Plugs...Mess with the Bull and you'll get the Horn. :)
Previous 2011 Tuxedo Black SHO w/PP - 12.89 1/4 Mile

FoMoCoSHO

Quote from: sunwolf on April 01, 2015, 09:36:23 AM
Wait so lower LOL is good? Mine went up when I added some corn.
That could mean you got some bad fuel.

The old car never moved from 100, but it always had corn in it from the time that gauge got fired up.

I will be watching the behavior as I add some corn and wood...

FoMoCoSHO

Quote from: SHOdded on April 01, 2015, 10:53:43 AM
100 is theoretically ideal per the manufacturer's POV, once the new fuel is "relearned" after fillup.  Now what fuel they use exactly to set this ratio, not sure, but fair game to say E10, as that seems to be the standard in most of the country now.  I am sure they allow some variance for quality of fuel, but the "ideal" 100 point will vary by actual fuel in use, which is where tuning comes into play, altering the fuel & spark tables accordingly.  That's why you have 87/89/91/93 and beyond tunes.  You definitely don't want to run less octane than the tune calls for, but more is ok, up to a point, for example. 

Want to set up your own spark table?  Here's a simple way to do it, courtesy of MegaSquirt:
http://www.useasydocs.com/theory/spktable.htm
Principles of Tuning Programmable EFI Systems - MegaSquirt:
http://www.megamanual.com/begintuning.htm
I'm guessing 100 is based on 93 E10 since that's what is the preferred fuel and I'm pretty sure what was used to get the 365 rating.

It would be nice if this number would scale under 100 so we could see any the effects of extra octane above the 93 threshold.

glock-coma


Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on April 01, 2015, 11:57:42 AM
Quote from: sunwolf on April 01, 2015, 09:36:23 AM
Wait so lower LOL is good? Mine went up when I added some corn.
That could mean you got some bad fuel.

The old car never moved from 100, but it always had corn in it from the time that gauge got fired up.

I will be watching the behavior as I add some corn and wood...
Wasn't your tune adjusted for corn though?
So I would think if your ratio never changed dramatically it would stay @100.

My tune is not adjusted for corn but I add 2 gallons to battle the winter fuel. That's why I think it shoots up to 129 then once it learns/adjusts what's in the tank it goes back down.  I'm a newb when it comes to blending so I'm prob wrong. Lol
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

FoMoCoSHO

Quote from: glock-coma on April 01, 2015, 12:31:52 PM

Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on April 01, 2015, 11:57:42 AM
Quote from: sunwolf on April 01, 2015, 09:36:23 AM
Wait so lower LOL is good? Mine went up when I added some corn.
That could mean you got some bad fuel.

The old car never moved from 100, but it always had corn in it from the time that gauge got fired up.

I will be watching the behavior as I add some corn and wood...
Wasn't your tune adjusted for corn though?
So I would think if your ratio never changed dramatically it would stay @100.

My tune is not adjusted for corn but I add 2 gallons to battle the winter fuel. That's why I think it shoots up to 129 then once it learns/adjusts what's in the tank it goes back down.  I'm a newb when it comes to blending so I'm prob wrong. Lol
Initially no, I ran it stock.

SHOnUup

These are working on the F150 also. Just a heads up.

Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

ecoboostsho

2013 White SHO w/PP, Gearhead Tuned, 3 Bar, 160T, Plugs...Mess with the Bull and you'll get the Horn. :)
Previous 2011 Tuxedo Black SHO w/PP - 12.89 1/4 Mile

ShoBoat

They also mostly work on the non EB explorer ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2012 Pearl White CTS-V Stock
2016 Fusion Titanium 2.0 EB Stock
2013 SHO Black on Black (Gone) PP, Unleashed Custom Tune, 170 TStat, SP534 Plugs, 3 Bar, Airaid Intake, PPE catted downpipes, Corsa Cat-back, H&R Springs. Focal 165KR Front Stage,2 JL W6 10 with Focal 800.1. 12.62 @ 110 mph.

pejohnson

I can't seem to get the following PIDs to work on the Torque Pro app on my phone.  Below is the data used.  Can any of you review and see if I missed something?  I would appreciate any help.


Long Name AWD PWM Modulation of rear
Short Name  AWD %
PID  22d128
Equation  A/256*100
Min Value  0
Max Value  100%
Units Header 761

Long Name    AWD Status on-off
Short Name  AWDStatus
PID  22191C
Equation  (256*A)+B
Min Value 0
Max Value  1
Units  (none)
Header  761


Long Name  LFTire Pressue  RFTire Pressure  RRTire Pressure  LRTire Pressure
Short Name  LF Pressure  RF Pressure  RR Pressure  LR Pressure
PID  222813  222814  222815   222816
Equation    (((256*A)+B)/3+22/3)*0.145 (same for all)
Min Value  0 (same for all)
Max Value  70 (same for all)
Units psi
Header  726 (same for all)


Also having trouble with tracking HP and Torque.  Lastly I somehow deleted all my custom PIDs and gauge layout on Torque Pro.  Which boost / vacuum equations/PIDs do I use?

Phil
13 Platinum White, PP, 402A, Moonroof, Multi-contour seats, and Navigation.  MODS - LMS 93 octane 3bar tune, 160 LMS thermostat, Airaid CAI, 15% tint, interior LED upgrade, LED puddle lights, Nurburgring 20" Gloss Black Powercoated Rims, H&R springs, Corsa catback exhaust, LMS catted downpipes

Best time 1/4 mile 12.588 sec @ 109.44 mph

SHOnUup

Quote from: pejohnson on June 07, 2015, 08:55:27 PM
I can't seem to get the following PIDs to work on the Torque Pro app on my phone.  Below is the data used.  Can any of you review and see if I missed something?  I would appreciate any help.


Long Name AWD PWM Modulation of rear
Short Name  AWD %
PID  22d128
Equation  A/256*100
Min Value  0
Max Value  100%
Units Header 761

Long Name    AWD Status on-off
Short Name  AWDStatus
PID  22191C
Equation  (256*A)+B
Min Value 0
Max Value  1
Units  (none)
Header  761


Long Name  LFTire Pressue  RFTire Pressure  RRTire Pressure  LRTire Pressure
Short Name  LF Pressure  RF Pressure  RR Pressure  LR Pressure
PID  222813  222814  222815   222816
Equation    (((256*A)+B)/3+22/3)*0.145 (same for all)
Min Value  0 (same for all)
Max Value  70 (same for all)
Units psi
Header  726 (same for all)


Also having trouble with tracking HP and Torque.  Lastly I somehow deleted all my custom PIDs and gauge layout on Torque Pro.  Which boost / vacuum equations/PIDs do I use?

Phil
Your AWD % looks good, do you have a screenshot or pic of the editor page? Only thing I don't see you listing above is, unit type (%).

Boost gauge I use.

PID.....22f40b
Min/max....-25/20
Unit...psi
Equation....A*.145-14.7


Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.