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Burping radiator after 170 tstat change?

Started by 2010SHOtime, April 26, 2014, 04:23:48 PM

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SHOdded

I hesitate to recommend this, because this is an extra step that may not solve anything.  BUT if you confident in your TStat replacement skill, and really want to get the air out of the system, you COULD try deleting the TStat temporarily (not sure if the gasket will seal properly without the TStat holding it in tho), and then running the engine till it gets warm.  All the air should flow out into the degas bottle (not having a restriction anymore).  Then carefully reinstall the TStat.

You could also try jacking up the DRIVER's side of the car while doing the TStat R&R so as to not let the coolant have easy access to spilling out.  Then after the install, lower the DRIVER side and jack up the PASSENGER side.

Just a couple of ideas.  No clue if at all practical or possible ...
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

USMCSHO341

Yea I'm not that confident in my auto mechanic abilities lol. But originally when I did the swap I had the drivers side on a ramp. Then immediately after I switched the ramp under the passengers side to hopefully burp the system. Nothing's working so far. I'm gonna give it another go in the morning.


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SHOdded

Fingers crossed tomorrow is the day it gets done :D
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

AJP turbo

#33
Ive seen alot of posts with people having trouble so i looked in my ford service manual. Kinda had me curious even tho im not an advocate for a the cooler thermostat mod

For the 2.0 ecoboost they have 2 procedures one with a special bleed tool that goes on the degas bottle and one procedure if u dont have it

For the 3.5 gdti they specifically say that u MUST use the vacuum tool and procedure
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

USMCSHO341


Quote from: ZSHO on November 07, 2015, 01:47:29 PM
USMC Keep us updated on any progress.  Z
so one thing i forgot to mention is that after I installed the new tstat I also installed the 3bar and tune from LMS. And initially I honestly forgot about it due to the issues of burping the system. I noticed that the fans kick on a lot sooner and thought its possible the tstat isn't opening. So I just put the stock tune back on and swapped out the 3bar for the factory one. And noticed the car is running a lil rougher and there is this wrench symbol on my display any one else get this when switching back to stock. The car is not running horrible but it's seems to run a lil bit rougher.


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ZSHO

USMC did you install the tune before or after the sync update??  Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

USMCSHO341

Before right after the initial install of the tstat. I tee stalled the update last night again and same thing happened where the media and radio were not available. So I pulled the ground like you told me and that seemed to fix that issue.

Additionally, just now I turned the car off and back on and the wrench isn't there on the display any more. So it's back to normal. But after installing the stock setup and raising the passengers side and following the burp procedures mentioned above in post 7 I am noticing the reservoir is finally releasing a substantial amount of air. So I am in the middle of revving the motor to 3500 eps at the moment and will loosen the cap on the reservoir again to see if ther is a difference. In the heat.


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glock-coma

I got the wrench icon the last time I loaded the stock tune BEFORE installing the 2 bar sensor. If you have the 3 bar in while loading the stock tune it will throw the icon
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

ZSHO

#38
Its sometimes beneficial to fill the coolant reservoir above the cold fill level to help in these kind of situations.  Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

USMCSHO341


Quote from: glock-coma on November 08, 2015, 06:30:25 PM
I got the wrench icon the last time I loaded the stock tune BEFORE installing the 2 bar sensor. If you have the 3 bar in while loading the stock tune it will throw the icon
ok that must've been the issue with the wrench thing. I installed the stock tune with the 3bar in and afterward swapped it out for the stock sensor. After turning the car off and back on after the initial startup it did intact go away.


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sholxgt

Figured it's better to add on to this older thread vs. making a new one...

So, I changed my thermostat to a 170 and have a concern.

My temperature is varying between 170 and 184 degrees.  Within a couple mile stretch of road it will vary from 172 to 178 without accelerating or idling.  Just driving a constant speed.  Is this normal?  Those of you monitoring your cars, do you see the temperature constantly changing?  The gauge on the car is even moving up and down.  Ambient temp is around 92 degrees.  I'm concerned that I may have an air pocket.

I have done several rounds of the 3500 rpm cycle with the reservoir higher than the engine without the level of coolant in the reservoir changing.
Current - 2019 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5 EB
Formerly -2013 MKS Ecoboost Premium
PPE Catted DP's, 170 Reische TS, K&N Drop In, AJP Tune only at track - 12.87@106

ZSHO

#41
It definitely sounds like you may need to burb the system but IMO the coolant and fluctuating temps sound normal,how much coolant did you loose in the process?..Did you add the same amount you lost?...also make sure the (temp gauge)does NOT go past the Half way marker on the cluster especially when driving...1) start the car up and set the heat on to high and let her idle for 10-15min and then shut her off and wait ten min and slowly,gently release the coolant reservoir cap to let any air out and quickly tighten it back up..2)Drive the vehicle for 10min while carefully monitoring the temp gauge so it does NOT exceed the halfway mark and repeat step (one)over until any and all air pockets are gone,there is also a special tool if just in case things do not go accordingly,BTW would make sure the coolant reservoir is a hair above the (full)mark (Top)line and repeat the above steps as needed and best of luck and keep us updated.  Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

sholxgt

Quote from: ZSHO on July 31, 2016, 06:04:33 PM
It definitely sounds like you may need to burb the system but IMO the coolant and fluctuating temps sound normal,how much coolant did you loose in the process?..Did you add the same amount you lost?...also make sure the (temp gauge)does NOT go past the Half way marker on the cluster especially when driving...1) start the car up and set the heat on to high and let her idle for 10-15min and then shut her off and wait ten min and slowly,gently release the coolant reservoir cap to let any air out and quickly tighten it back up..2)Drive the vehicle for 10min while carefully monitoring the temp gauge so it does NOT exceed the halfway mark and repeat step (one)over until any and all air pockets are gone,there is also a special tool if just in case things do not go accordingly,BTW would make sure the coolant reservoir is a hair above the (full)mark (Top)line and best of luck and keep us updated.  Z

I'm not sure how much I lost.  Was a significant amount, but not measured.  I'd say roughly a quart lost and a quart put back in.

Temp gauge not going past half.  Varying from several notches below half up to a hair under half.

I also tried the crack open reservoir method, but that caused the coolant level to rise which leads me to believe that the air sound is it drawing air in not letting air escape.  Reservoir level is just above full cold when cold.

I'm tempted to just take it to the dealer and have them perform a coolant flush/refill since I'm at 30,000 miles.
Current - 2019 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5 EB
Formerly -2013 MKS Ecoboost Premium
PPE Catted DP's, 170 Reische TS, K&N Drop In, AJP Tune only at track - 12.87@106

ZSHO

Quote from: sholxgt on July 31, 2016, 06:19:38 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on July 31, 2016, 06:04:33 PM
It definitely sounds like you may need to burb the system but IMO the coolant and fluctuating temps sound normal,how much coolant did you loose in the process?..Did you add the same amount you lost?...also make sure the (temp gauge)does NOT go past the Half way marker on the cluster especially when driving...1) start the car up and set the heat on to high and let her idle for 10-15min and then shut her off and wait ten min and slowly,gently release the coolant reservoir cap to let any air out and quickly tighten it back up..2)Drive the vehicle for 10min while carefully monitoring the temp gauge so it does NOT exceed the halfway mark and repeat step (one)over until any and all air pockets are gone,there is also a special tool if just in case things do not go accordingly,BTW would make sure the coolant reservoir is a hair above the (full)mark (Top)line and best of luck and keep us updated.  Z

I'm not sure how much I lost.  Was a significant amount, but not measured.  I'd say roughly a quart lost and a quart put back in.

Temp gauge not going past half.  Varying from several notches below half up to a hair under half.

I also tried the crack open reservoir method, but that caused the coolant level to rise which leads me to believe that the air sound is it drawing air in not letting air escape.  Reservoir level is just above full cold when cold.

I'm tempted to just take it to the dealer and have them perform a coolant flush/refill since I'm at 30,000 miles.
I would also emphasize to check for any such leaks around the t-stat housing and make sure those three 8mm bolts are nice and tight but patience is the key motive when performing this procedure.  Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

sholxgt

Thanks for the suggestions. 

Only two little 8mm bolts, but both are tight.  No coolant leaks.  Install went smoothly.
Current - 2019 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5 EB
Formerly -2013 MKS Ecoboost Premium
PPE Catted DP's, 170 Reische TS, K&N Drop In, AJP Tune only at track - 12.87@106