I hope you guys can help me with this problem. I think Dalum has possibly been having a similar problem but I'm not sure.
I currently have a set of the Amber/Amber switchback Triton V3 LED lights with the new 2010 and up Ford socket adapters (the ones with the F etched on the socket end). Not sure if this matters, but I do not have DRL's active in the system.
When I first tried installing them, I didn't know I needed the fuse installed to activate the internal resistor. Without this and the car not running and just in accessory mode, I would not get hyperflash for the turn signals until I would turn on the head lights via the switch while the turn signals were going.
After then talking to Jake at Vleds, I added the fuse and seemed to fix the problem while the car engine was off and turning on the head lights with no hyperflash. So then I thought I had everything good. Tidied everything up and headed over across town. Then right away the first time I turned on the signal while the engine was running, I get hyperflahsh. I could kind of override the hyperflash by hitting the turn signal for the lane change (which would hyperflash), and then actually turning on the turn signal right afterwards (which would flash normal).
So then after talking to Jake again, he suggested the 25Ohm 25W Resistor for 2010 and up Ford DRL fix. So once again I wired up everything and tried finding a good ground point for the resistor. After doing this, I don't get hyperflash when the engine is off, and noticed that the turn signal brightness is significantly dimmer than what it was without the resistor. To the point where it's barely noticeable. So then when starting up the engine and having it running, I still have a hyperflash problem (as well as the turn signal back to normal brightness). I let the hazard lights run for about 5 minutes as Jake suggested this and kept checking the resistor which never even got warm. So I thought maybe my ground was bad but I have tried 3-4 different locations to other ground studs by the fuse box and bolts to the fenders and chassis but still have the same outcome.
So at this point, I don't really know what to do. I don't really know a whole lot about electrical stuff and what could be causing the problem. Jake has said he has done as much troubleshooting as he can over the phone without having the car there to look at. I've tried calling around to about 8 local places to see if anyone could be of help with pretty much zero luck of anyone knowing anything about this stuff.
Let me know if you guys have any advice on trying to fix this problem.