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GDI engines & catch can use

Started by SwampRat, April 12, 2014, 12:10:47 AM

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panther427

Quote from: SwampRat on April 13, 2014, 01:44:42 PM
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on April 13, 2014, 01:21:42 PM
Bourbon with a beer chaser?

Poison of choice ....  Glenlivet 21

Excellent stuff.. if your in colorado you gotta try Stranahans
2013 SHO

Tuner Boost

Quote from: panther427 on April 13, 2014, 01:28:45 AM
Here you go everyone having sleepless nights over this issue.... BG products...the very company we have talked about,and there wonderful additives and machines have there very own taurus sho. They have been keeping tract of the valves and injectors over 60,000 miles. With excellnt boroscope photos and there take.

http://www.bgprod.com/bgfueltest/


The BG test is probably the best documented over time. Read the comments, that even though they used upper induction treatments over the time of the test they still ended up with enough deposits that the performance degradation was noticed by several of the engineers.

And if lets say you do a upper induction cleaning (remember, this breaks the hardened deposits loose and some cause damage as they are forced between the piston and cylinder wall during the process, and the accelerate wear on the valve guides cannot be reversed) every 10 k miles at $150-$250 a time....the can is a small price in comparison by preventing all of this to begin with.  You can treat the illness after it sets in, or prevent it from happening.

The BG addditive in the fuel does nothing (none do) on a DI engine as it would have to shower the intake valves with fuel  like a port injection engine, so there is zero effect there.  And as the injectors now operate at 2000 PSI plus, vs 45-55 psi of old, deposits do not have a chance to form in them.

We have been working closely with ML Parker (from the original Ford SVO development team under Michael Kranefuss in the 80's) on this for the past 8 months as well.

Doing an upper induction service every 25k miles I believe will also be good, but doing it for the first time after say 50k miles or more the risk of damage from the deposits breaking loose would concern me.

SHOdded

So what suggested methods are available for folks who start upper induction cleaning at a late stage?  Are there any that can be done with the engine stationary?
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Tuner Boost

Quote from: SHOdded on April 13, 2014, 03:15:43 PM
So what suggested methods are available for folks who start upper induction cleaning at a late stage?  Are there any that can be done with the engine stationary?

Best is the manual cleaning. If I didn't do a thread on it here yet I will get one up.   No solvent based solution gets more than 60-70% of it to break loose. It does it by saturating the deposits and then they expand and break loose.

A manual cleaning is not difficult, but takes 4-5 hours to perform.

Needed:

Tools to remove IM
Shop vac
Air compressor and air nozzle to clear debris
Stainless brush set with long shafts:
https://www.google.com/search?q=stainless+brushes&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=ruhKU9rjD4nx2AXjw4DwBA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1600&bih=775#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=Ua7z5SbGYPLlfM%253A%3B_Po50TLlojdU-M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ipatools.com%252Fproducts%252Fmedia%252Fcatalog%252Fproduct%252Fcache%252F1%252Fimage%252F1200x%252F9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95%252Fi%252Fp%252Fipa_stainless_steel_bore_brushes_8080_04.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ipatools.com%252Fproducts%252Findex.php%252Fipa-8080.html%3B1200%3B1200
and drill or die grinder
Long flat blade screw driver and or pic set.

Remove intake manifold and clean around every port so painters tape will stick well. Cover all but the first port your going to clean,

Rotate the crank (use socket on dampner bolt) until it is at TDC  so both intake valves are closed.

Use screw driver and pics to break loose all the larger deposits, and suck out w/vac. Then move to brushes. Dont be afraid of scratching, all is hardened.  Once that port is clean (2 valves to port) blow all debris out and vac any from around next port and tape finished port off and do the next. Repeat until finished. No debris can get into the cylinder and cause damage and this way your starting as new.

BMW has a blast kit that uses walnut shell media to do the same, and you can always remove the heads...but this is the easiest and produces excellent results.



Ricanracer140

#34
I'd give this article a read. I sell this stuff where I work and the BG rep has been educating me and letting me try some products. I'll keep you guys posted on the results. http://www.bgprod.com/bgfueltest/
Sorry this post is a day late and a dollar short.

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roushed

#35
So adding a BG product or something similar to the gas would have no affect on anything very interesting

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SwampRat

Quote from: Ricanracer140 on April 14, 2014, 09:48:43 PM
I'd give this article a read. I sell this stuff where I work and the BG rep has been educating me and letting me try some products. I'll keep you guys posted on the results. http://www.bgprod.com/bgfueltest/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The link you post has been previously brought up and is the basis for for many of the members deciding to continue with our installs or purchasing an RX OCC . A Lot of continuing discussion on the matter though .
2013 SHO  ....  not mine anymore

2021 Edge ST

mjhpadi

Quote from: roushed on April 14, 2014, 09:53:44 PM
So adding a BG product or something similar to the gas would have no affect on anything very interesting

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

Actually according to the article a product like BG44K will help keep injectors and the combustion chamber clean until the deposits on the valves and other areas begin to affect performance.
2010 Candy Red SHO, Livernois Stage 4 Tune, Airaid CAI, Tinted Headlamps & Tails, LED Interior Lighting, LED Running Lights, LED Puddle and License Plate Lamps, LED DRL's, Window Tint, Rear Window Spoiler, V3 Triton Switchback Running Lights, Colgan Bra, Ford Racing Gauges (oil pressure, oil temperature, boost/vacuum)
Replaced by 2020 Hertiage Edition GT-350

IHeartGroceries

You can also blast the valves with walnut shell media.
Cheap, safe and easy to do, with greater effectiveness than scrubbing with elbow grease.

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2013 SHO PP

mjhpadi

I would love to see a comparision of two different engines, both with about the same mileage, one that had a catch can installed and one without, then borescope or even tear downs of both engines...it would be a real world test of how much the catch can helps keep the engine clean. And a great side by side view of with and without.
2010 Candy Red SHO, Livernois Stage 4 Tune, Airaid CAI, Tinted Headlamps & Tails, LED Interior Lighting, LED Running Lights, LED Puddle and License Plate Lamps, LED DRL's, Window Tint, Rear Window Spoiler, V3 Triton Switchback Running Lights, Colgan Bra, Ford Racing Gauges (oil pressure, oil temperature, boost/vacuum)
Replaced by 2020 Hertiage Edition GT-350