Engine torsion arm/damper

[glock-coma]

Not sure if anyone makes a polyurethane replacement for these but is there any benefit filling the empty voids in these mounts with liquid polyurethane?
http://www.amazon.com/3M-08609-Window-Weld-Urethane-Cartridge/dp/B000FW61EW
Trying to limit wheel hop and engine movement.
Number 13&17


2010 RCM non PP
K&N panel filter
sp534 @ 30
unleashed 93 performance+firm shift+boost
more to come.....

[BiGMaC]

Truly can't answer the question... but if the engine can't move, something else wil or be very stressed.  wonder if even more wheel hop would happen as more torque ended up at the tire/ground interface? ... dunno.  I'd personally change my driving technique before i stopped the engine torque roll....

but fill with urethane?... dunno

[glock-coma]

I've been reading a lot about what actually causes wheel hop.
http://www.mc2racing.com/tech/20061012a/

The urethane does not set completely solid, still allows some flex.
The window weld durometer is at 64 which is relativity soft.

2010 RCM non PP
K&N panel filter
sp534 @ 30
unleashed 93 performance+firm shift+boost
more to come.....

[FracaSHO]

I was having wheel hop issues. But I changed my driving technique and practiced and it's not really an issue anymore. Unless you got a solid axle rear drive, wheel hop will be something you have to figure a way around.


Brad
2010 SHO with PP
170* T-Stat
NGK LTR7IX plugs, gap at 0.030
BOV VTA
MyCal LMS Stage 4+
Sent from my iPhone

[geswek]

Only real way to stop it is traction bars up front.

There was someone on here LONG ago that did it -- he had the whole work up and parts list.

I use to have it all but I long deleted it; didn't see myself ever going that route.

[SHOdded]

First-SHO, I believe, had set up traction bars.

07-06-2013, 01:55 PM
OK, so here is my writeup.

Traction Bars

http://racinglineperformance.com/sho...&idcategory=21

Must replace control arm bolt with ½-13 x 4” bolt. I used stainless.

Mount front helm joint with bushings to control arm first. Align traction bar attached to bracket for proper weld point and then weld bracket to frame. Adjust traction bar with suspension in the ride position. Do not over tighten.

Front End Links

http://racinglineperformance.com/sho...&idcategory=21

Must replace bolts with http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Det...x?product=6774

I also had to make some bushings for the strut mount and the sway-bar mount. I have extras, for those who take on the project.

Rear End Links – No Modification, just mount, adjust and tighten

http://racinglineperformance.com/sho...&idcategory=21

Limit Straps – For use ONLY at the track and must be attached at the track.

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/RA18114.html Straps

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/me...ow=&range_high= Clevis

The clevis is the only thing you will use, as room will not allow the use of a pin with retainer. I made two new pins to be tack welded within the clevis. Purchase kit below and cut two pieces 3” long and heat wrap clevis to strap. Be sure to cover entire clevis. This will protect springs from rub damage.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202204318?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=cpgi-hs-splice-kit-1%2F0&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=202204318#.USjW0qX_S ao

Drill out the upper hole to allow some play, about 5/8” as you want the strap to give when turning. Apply dip coat to the hole to minimize clevis thread damage.

Replace the factory lower strut bolt with a modified 10.9 M14 x 2.0 120 long https://www.fastenal.com/web/product...x?sku=11113742 The threads need to be ¾ longer, so you will need to take a thread die and do that yourself.

Use the same stock lock nut to secure bolt. Add a M14 x 2.0 nut for space, washer then limit strap, washer and new lock nut.

Bolt the lower limit strap into position, then feed the clevis through the new hole. Add harden washer and nut. At this time mount wheels and let rest on tires. Tighten nut until desired squat is achieved, then add second lock nut. Note, the clevis will have to be cut in order to shut the hood. You have 5/8” clearance from the top of the strut mount to the hood shock support. If you remove the hood shock support you have 1 5/8” clearance, so cut for your needs.

[geswek]

That's it! He sent me everything, photos, install instructions.

I deleted them awhile back LOL.

Sent from my mobile, I think.

[glock-coma]

I read that traction bar setup awhile ago. Don't think I want to go hardcore like that.  That's a track only setup, not a daily driver.
Ill probably try the urethane on the damper. We will see what happens

2010 RCM non PP
K&N panel filter
sp534 @ 30
unleashed 93 performance+firm shift+boost
more to come.....

[bpd1151]

IIRC, FirstSHO did not notice any noticeable gains with all the work he did.

I could be wrong, but I think that's his experience was.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

[crash712us]

I agree stiffer engine mounts would be helpful. But window sealant is not a solution. The urethane material I've seen used for mounts is hard enough that it's machined to desired shape and size.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SHOdded]

Pourable urethane has been used on the Gen I/II/III SHO motor mounts for reinforcement.  Kirk (of Gen III cam weld and bpd's custom exhaust fame) does it with "HOT urethane on a press".  Other vendors you can contact for additional information include http://shonutperformance.com, http://www.shosource.com, and http://rcmautomotive.com .  Also consider whether the associated hardware needs to be upgraded to handle any additional stress. 

MAY work here, give it a go!

[BiGMaC]

Great discussion and info here  .... I'll be very interested in the method tried and the outcome.... If it works then maybe post a "how to"

[SwampRat]

Agreed ... good  discussion going here about this

[glock-coma]

Pourable urethane has been used on the Gen I/II/III SHO motor mounts for reinforcement.  Kirk (of Gen III cam weld and bpd's custom exhaust fame) does it with "HOT urethane on a press".  Other vendors you can contact for additional information include http://shonutperformance.com, http://www.shosource.com, and http://rcmautomotive.com .  Also consider whether the associated hardware needs to be upgraded to handle any additional stress. 

MAY work here, give it a go!

I did read about the hot or pourable urethane kits.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/About-How-to-Make-Universal-Motor-Mount-Inserts.asp

They come in different hardness or durometer settings.
The duro of the softest kit (which is still firm but flexible) is 60. This is what they recommend for daily a driver.
The window weld dries to about a duro of 64. And it's much eaiser to work with. All you need is a caulking gun.

[68_GT]

putting on 255 Nitto Moitivo tires eliminated my wheel hop. Now it just goes. Softer sidewall and much better traction acceleration is a lot more enjoyable not bouncing, or worrying you're about to break something. You'll have to replace tires eventually so this could be a simple have to modification anyway.