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Rx Catch Can Install on Explorer Sport

Started by JimiJak, April 06, 2014, 09:49:25 AM

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avidmotion

Ok, thanks everyone for the help, I got it all worked out, I will write it all up and post when done. Currently had a hose collapsed and waiting on a 90 degree quick disconnect to take the angle off the hose.
Sp542@.028, windstorm CAI, MSD coils, AO GH TUNE, GH intercooler, All Amsoil, General Gmax-rs summer tires, +PP, PP PADS,EDC rotors, Colinite 476s wax, used PPE DPs, Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete with custom X pipe, Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts|, 3 bar, stock thermostat,  TRACY LEWIS DESIGNED Team RXP, the Original oil separator.

glock-coma

2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

Colorado-SHOBro

Resurrection once again!! haha
Just purchased JJ's RX standard can kit and am already busy planning the install. Couple general questions. From reading all the how to threads etc. it looks like the options are- (please correct me if any of the following is false)
Clean side setup:
1.Vent CSS to atmosphere w/breather filter(which tends to get oil soaked and leak vapor in the cabin)
2.Tap into the airbox (which could accumulate oil in the airbox unless a check-valve is used?)
      ^if tapping into the airbox does it need to be pre or post filter?
Can the CSS be removed and factory oil cap replaced while still leaving the dirty OCC side connected without harm to the operation of the system? This would be to avoid red flags on dealer visits.

Vacuum source:
Was it ever determined if both areas of the charge pipe(front side OEM port+rear BOV port) need to be used with the T or is one vacuum source sufficient?
^the answer to this question might determine if it's possible to run the system with the factory oil cap as a the OEM piece from front cam cover to charge pipe source would need to be installed when doing so. . If i'm not mistaken.

Did my best to get up to speed on everything before posting so hopefully the questions are clear.
Thanks to all members for their in-depth documentation of installs and results! Great community here!
11' SHO Tuxedo Metallic black-non PP | Highly sophisticated high altitude custom AJP Turbo E30 3Bar tune w/Wastegate mod | Cat'd ceramic PPE downpipes |170 stat| SP542 plugs .028 | PP trans cooler | H&R springs | RX catch can

12.8@108 @ 6,000ft DA.

ZSHO

#153
Here is a good link on the UPR OCC kit install related to the Xsport and Flex with Diagrams,hope it helps any and best of luck on the install and definitely post up some pics for us to admire.  :) Z
https://www.tapatalk.com/topic/56890-f150ecoboost-net/15274-new-upr-ford-explorer-sport-catch-can-system


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

SHOdded

Colorado-ShoBro has done a nice writeup on the standard can install on his SHO, complete with drain valve
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=7370.new#new
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

MiWiAu

#155
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on January 15, 2017, 01:02:12 PM
Resurrection once again!! haha
Just purchased JJ's RX standard can kit and am already busy planning the install. Couple general questions. From reading all the how to threads etc. it looks like the options are- (please correct me if any of the following is false)
Clean side setup:
1.Vent CSS to atmosphere w/breather filter(which tends to get oil soaked and leak vapor in the cabin)
2.Tap into the airbox (which could accumulate oil in the airbox unless a check-valve is used?)
      ^if tapping into the airbox does it need to be pre or post filter?
Can the CSS be removed and factory oil cap replaced while still leaving the dirty OCC side connected without harm to the operation of the system? This would be to avoid red flags on dealer visits.

Vacuum source:
Was it ever determined if both areas of the charge pipe(front side OEM port+rear BOV port) need to be used with the T or is one vacuum source sufficient?
^the answer to this question might determine if it's possible to run the system with the factory oil cap as a the OEM piece from front cam cover to charge pipe source would need to be installed when doing so. . If i'm not mistaken.

Did my best to get up to speed on everything before posting so hopefully the questions are clear.
Thanks to all members for their in-depth documentation of installs and results! Great community here!

Hey Nutz, sorry I missed your questions here. A little tardy with my reply, but in case someone else comes along...

Re: CSS
1. This is how I have mine. I have not noticed any offensive vapors or oil on my filter yet.
2. You want to tap the clean/filtered (top) side of the lid, so you are not pulling unfiltered air into the engine.

Re: Vacuum source

On the intake pipes, I recall seeing a post from Tracy (original designer of RX can) that one intake connection is okay, but two is better. Typically, a single connection would be on the fore most pipe where the cleanside quick connect attaches, for ease of install. A second source can help improve efficiency and provide, I imagine, slightly more vacuum and evacuation when under boost. I opted to use two intake sources for maximum evacuation.

Technically, you could leave the cleanside hooked up to the intake pipe and use the factory oil cap, but IMO, this still leaves a potential for oil to get drawn back into the intake piping. If a CSS breather filter is getting oil soaked, why would one expect oil to not migrate to the intake end of the cleanside tube? Once oil is in the intake, there's nothing keeping it from eventually getting to your valves, so on my install, I decided to completely remove that connection. The only way oil will enter my intake now is from turbo blow by. Hopefully I'm a ways off from that... :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2013 XSport

Colorado-SHOBro

#156
Quote from: MiWiAu on February 01, 2017, 09:56:40 PM
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on January 15, 2017, 01:02:12 PM
Resurrection once again!! haha
Just purchased JJ's RX standard can kit and am already busy planning the install. Couple general questions. From reading all the how to threads etc. it looks like the options are- (please correct me if any of the following is false)
Clean side setup:
1.Vent CSS to atmosphere w/breather filter(which tends to get oil soaked and leak vapor in the cabin)
2.Tap into the airbox (which could accumulate oil in the airbox unless a check-valve is used?)
      ^if tapping into the airbox does it need to be pre or post filter?
Can the CSS be removed and factory oil cap replaced while still leaving the dirty OCC side connected without harm to the operation of the system? This would be to avoid red flags on dealer visits.

Vacuum source:
Was it ever determined if both areas of the charge pipe(front side OEM port+rear BOV port) need to be used with the T or is one vacuum source sufficient?
^the answer to this question might determine if it's possible to run the system with the factory oil cap as a the OEM piece from front cam cover to charge pipe source would need to be installed when doing so. . If i'm not mistaken.

Did my best to get up to speed on everything before posting so hopefully the questions are clear.
Thanks to all members for their in-depth documentation of installs and results! Great community here!

Hey Nutz, sorry I missed your questions here. A little tardy with my reply, but in case someone else comes along...

Re: CSS
1. This is how I have mine. I have not noticed any offensive vapors or oil on my filter yet.
2. You want to tap the clean/filtered (top) side of the lid, so you are not pulling unfiltered air into the engine.

Re: Vacuum source

On the intake pipes, I recall seeing a post from Tracy (original designer of RX can) that one intake connection is okay, but two is better. Typically, a single connection would be on the fore most pipe where the cleanside quick connect attaches, for ease of install. A second source can help improve efficiency and provide, I imagine, slightly more vacuum and evacuation when under boost. I opted to use two intake sources for maximum evacuation.

Technically, you could leave the cleanside hooked up to the intake pipe and use the factory oil cap, but IMO, this still leaves a potential for oil to get drawn back into the intake piping. If a CSS breather filter is getting oil soaked, why would one expect oil to not migrate to the intake end of the cleanside tube? Once oil is in the intake, there's nothing keeping it from eventually getting to your valves, so on my install, I decided to completely remove that connection. The only way oil will enter my intake now is from turbo blow by. Hopefully I'm a ways off from that... :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the reply Mikey. Yeah i ended up reaching out to Tracey and he answered those questions for me. Everything you stated is accurate.
The can is installed and seems to be working perfectly. I did use both vacuum sources but will disconnect the front charge pipe location to make use of the OEM clean side system for dealer visits and it will only be using one vacuum source in that case.
I remember reading earlier in this thread that some guys were experiencing oil/gas smells in the cabin and/or oil pooling in the airbox. I thought the cause of the smell in the cabin was from venting the CSS to atmosphere. Correct me if i'm wrong on that though. If i am mistaken . . what was the cause of the smell in the cabin? or was it ever determined?

Right now i'm temporarily using a clear hose for the CSS so i can see if any oil accumulates from the burps transitioning into boost. 175miles on the system now and i haven't seen anything-also no smells in the cabin so smooth sailing :)
11' SHO Tuxedo Metallic black-non PP | Highly sophisticated high altitude custom AJP Turbo E30 3Bar tune w/Wastegate mod | Cat'd ceramic PPE downpipes |170 stat| SP542 plugs .028 | PP trans cooler | H&R springs | RX catch can

12.8@108 @ 6,000ft DA.

MiWiAu

Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on February 01, 2017, 10:19:22 PM

I remember reading earlier in this thread that some guys were experiencing oil/gas smells in the cabin and/or oil pooling in the airbox. I thought the cause of the smell in the cabin was from venting the CSS to atmosphere. Correct me if i'm wrong on that though

Right now i'm temporarily using a clear hose for the CSS so i can see if any oil accumulates from the burps transitioning into boost. 175miles on the system now and i haven't seen anything-also no smells in the cabin so smooth sailing :)

I recall reading the same thing about fuel/oil vapors with CSS VTA. Lucky for me, this has not been my personal experience.

I'm subbed to your how-to thread, so keep us posted on your clear tubing observations (great idea)!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2013 XSport

Colorado-SHOBro

Quote from: MiWiAu on February 01, 2017, 10:26:19 PM
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on February 01, 2017, 10:19:22 PM

I remember reading earlier in this thread that some guys were experiencing oil/gas smells in the cabin and/or oil pooling in the airbox. I thought the cause of the smell in the cabin was from venting the CSS to atmosphere. Correct me if i'm wrong on that though

Right now i'm temporarily using a clear hose for the CSS so i can see if any oil accumulates from the burps transitioning into boost. 175miles on the system now and i haven't seen anything-also no smells in the cabin so smooth sailing :)

I recall reading the same thing about fuel/oil vapors with CSS VTA. Lucky for me, this has not been my personal experience.

I'm subbed to your how-to thread, so keep us posted on your clear tubing observations (great idea)!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
will do and thank you. i'm fighting the urge to empty the can but would rather get at least 500 miles on it first.
just curious - did you notice an increase in gas mileage at all after installing the catch can?
i'm hoping that will be a nice bi-product!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
11' SHO Tuxedo Metallic black-non PP | Highly sophisticated high altitude custom AJP Turbo E30 3Bar tune w/Wastegate mod | Cat'd ceramic PPE downpipes |170 stat| SP542 plugs .028 | PP trans cooler | H&R springs | RX catch can

12.8@108 @ 6,000ft DA.

metroplex

#159
Quote from: MiWiAu on February 01, 2017, 10:26:19 PM
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on February 01, 2017, 10:19:22 PM

I remember reading earlier in this thread that some guys were experiencing oil/gas smells in the cabin and/or oil pooling in the airbox. I thought the cause of the smell in the cabin was from venting the CSS to atmosphere. Correct me if i'm wrong on that though

Right now i'm temporarily using a clear hose for the CSS so i can see if any oil accumulates from the burps transitioning into boost. 175miles on the system now and i haven't seen anything-also no smells in the cabin so smooth sailing :)

I recall reading the same thing about fuel/oil vapors with CSS VTA. Lucky for me, this has not been my personal experience.

I'm subbed to your how-to thread, so keep us posted on your clear tubing observations (great idea)!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JLT uses air brake hoses for their separator, and the gas vapors weep right through the air brake hose, especially because Thermoid's air brake hose has pin hole vents to allow moisture from air brake systems to evacuate! I called Thermoid and they advised against using their air brake hose for this type of application and recommended their PCV/EEC/Fuel hose. After 2 weeks, the air brake hoses were coated in a sheen of oil/gas residue and my entire garage smelled like someone poured gasoline all over the ground. JLT claimed they sell thousands of these without any complaints, but another Explorer Sport owner complained about the same issue. The solution was to replace the air brake hoses with PCV/vapor hose.

My guess is that JLT sells thousands of the Mustang kits, which use the pre-formed hard nylon tubes that the OEM typically uses in this application. I've had my JLT 2.0 separator on my Mustang for 2 years without any problems.

In any case, all the JLT caught on my SHO was water and gas vapor residue, no engine oil. I think it is because the SHO's made before NOV 2014 come with an oil separator on the valve cover that works fairly well.
Previously: 2014 SHO
12.4 @ 110.9 mph

Current: 2017 Fusion Sport

MiWiAu

Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on February 01, 2017, 10:31:45 PM
Quote from: MiWiAu on February 01, 2017, 10:26:19 PM
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on February 01, 2017, 10:19:22 PM

I remember reading earlier in this thread that some guys were experiencing oil/gas smells in the cabin and/or oil pooling in the airbox. I thought the cause of the smell in the cabin was from venting the CSS to atmosphere. Correct me if i'm wrong on that though

Right now i'm temporarily using a clear hose for the CSS so i can see if any oil accumulates from the burps transitioning into boost. 175miles on the system now and i haven't seen anything-also no smells in the cabin so smooth sailing :)

I recall reading the same thing about fuel/oil vapors with CSS VTA. Lucky for me, this has not been my personal experience.

I'm subbed to your how-to thread, so keep us posted on your clear tubing observations (great idea)!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
will do and thank you. i'm fighting the urge to empty the can but would rather get at least 500 miles on it first.
just curious - did you notice an increase in gas mileage at all after installing the catch can?
i'm hoping that will be a nice bi-product!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought my XSport used in late August with 28,500 mi on it and installed the OCC two weeks later after about 1,000 mi, so I did not have enough history with the vehicle to determine if there was any change to fuel economy.

We had a very warm fall, and my first 500mi drain was only about a tsp. Fast forward a couple months to winter, and I drained 13 oz (mostly water) in two consecutive 1,000 mi drains.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2013 XSport

JimiJak

Quote from: MiWiAu on February 01, 2017, 10:26:19 PM
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on February 01, 2017, 10:19:22 PM

I remember reading earlier in this thread that some guys were experiencing oil/gas smells in the cabin and/or oil pooling in the airbox. I thought the cause of the smell in the cabin was from venting the CSS to atmosphere. Correct me if i'm wrong on that though

Right now i'm temporarily using a clear hose for the CSS so i can see if any oil accumulates from the burps transitioning into boost. 175miles on the system now and i haven't seen anything-also no smells in the cabin so smooth sailing :)

I recall reading the same thing about fuel/oil vapors with CSS VTA. Lucky for me, this has not been my personal experience.

I'm subbed to your how-to thread, so keep us posted on your clear tubing observations (great idea)!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

FWIW I had my CSS vented to the clean side of the air filter box and I was erring a mild smell of oil inside the cabin. I also had an oil soaked filter after a couple thousand miles.


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"America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, badass speed." - Eleanor Roosevelt

2014 XSport Black Betty Build

SHOdded

So you need to have a checkvalve on the CSS.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

MiWiAu

Quote from: SHOdded on February 03, 2017, 10:17:04 AM
So you need to have a checkvalve on the CSS.

I also wonder if routing the hose "up" like glock-coma did (see image in earlier post), would help long term, since oil would be more likely to drain back to the valve cover rather than pool in a low spot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2013 XSport

SHOdded

You mean like this
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,2536.msg90664.html#msg90664

Don't know if it will completely eliminate, but definitely a good practical solution sans checkvalve.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!