Rx Catch Can Install on Explorer Sport

[SHOdded]

So that's how they make Fanta!

[JimiJak]

As per Tracy @TunerBoost I have moved the clean-side separator line further away from the turbo than that OCC lines on the intake. Below is a quick right up on what was done.

I picked up a variety pack of rubber caps (couldn't find anything in 5/8" by itself)


Package came with two, so I ended up re-capping the OEM clean side barb on the valve front valve cover.


Then I removed the CSS vacuum connector from the vacuum barb on the front intake pipe and replaced it with a cap.


Next step was deciding where in the air box I wanted to drill the hole for the CSS port.
After looking at the removed connector from the front intake pipe, I decided I wanted to stay away from the MAF looking sensor in the air box port.


This is that sensor.


I decided to stick with a 3/8" elbow...no sense in going bigger just to reduce it to a smaller hose. Even with the oversized rubber grommet, there was enough room to drill a 3/4" hole with a step-bit, and stay in between the vanes of the air box.


And a look from the outside.


You can see the elbow has a barb on it that tightly seats and seals with the grommet, so no liquid gasket was required. Plus I drilled the hole a 1/16" under so it would be snug. I actually ended up making a parts run later in the day, so I picked up some heavier duty Dorman 3/8" elbows to replace the one in the pic.


Elbow leaving the airbox.


3/8" PCV line connected to elbow at the airbox (with upgraded elbows), then connected via second elbow to change direction cleanly back towards the clean side separator.


Wider shot.


Re-Route complete!

I know I said I wanted to keep the CSS line away from the censor...this was just a precaution...there should be FAR less flow through this line now, and hopefully NO oil will make it all the way to the end of this line, and into the airbox...if it does; we'll know!

While I had the CSS System apart, I decided to unscrew the cap to inspect the coalescing material and wipe the reservoir...so OF COURSE...there's pics!!


oil that has not yet had a chance to drain back into the valve cover.


Re-assembled and ready to run more tests!
(hopefully saturday I will have time to take the front clip off and re-route the can in front of the radiator)

[JimiJak]

Great report JJ.... any estimate on the volume in the pop bottle?

I would guess about 15ml of fluid.

You know we love 'ya Mac, but I think it's time for a bigger phone...

[glock-coma]

JimiJak, great write up!! Thank you for taking the time to do this.

[SwampRat]

Thanks for the update ... great news on accumulation info so far.
I expect more with relocation .


p.s. BigMac will never give up his IPhone for a Useful one ...... Diehard Apple Fan Boy .....

[POPSTAGE2]

JimiJak-
Awesome instructions...I also thank you.

Though I'm confused, which believe me isn't your fault.

On the clean side reroute, I thought Tracy said to use the stock barb closes to the air box? But you ended up tapping directly into the air box. Am I missing something?

BTW- NAPA has a two pack of the 5/8" cap. Part number 660-1696...

[JimiJak]

JimiJak-
Awesome instructions...I also thank you.

Though I'm confused, which believe me isn't your fault.

On the clean side reroute, I thought Tracy said to use the stock barb closes to the air box? But you ended up tapping directly into the air box. Am I missing something?

BTW- NAPA has a two pack of the 5/8" cap. Part number 660-1696...

No problem...that's why these write-ups are here!
There is no vacuum barb near the air box. The only one on the intake piping is where the clean side separator was already plugged in, prior to re-route. Tracy mentioned moving the line as close to the air box as possible. PainterPatt installed it just this side of the air box coupler at the start of the intake piping. Before I moved it, I talked to Tracy and he said as long as you have a good place to mount it, and stay on the clean side of the filter, the air box itself is better, since it will have even less vacuum effecting it there. The further away you can put it, the better. Tricky for the CAI guys.

You do bring up a good point though, something I forgot to mention. What Tracy had mentioned was for initial install, that YOU DO NOT HAVE TO TAP THE FRONT INTAKE PIPE when you're doing the evac line from the catch can. Rather than drilling the front pipe, you can CONNECT DIRECTLY TO THE VACUUM BARB THE CSS WAS USING FROM THE ORIGINAL INSTRUCTIONS.

Car quest takes good care of me, so sometimes I spend a little more over there. It all works out in the end, but thanks for the heads up! I have extras now. LOL

Thanks for the feedback!

[POPSTAGE2]

Car quest takes good care of me, so sometimes I spend a little more over there. It all works out in the end, but thanks for the heads up! I have extras now. LOL

Thanks for the feedback!
[/quote]

Thanks for clarifying...that really does help! I reread what Tracy wrote and new I was missing something because I looked the Sport over last night and just couldn't see the nipple he was talkinh about.

Thats cool with the CarQuest folks...Just mentioned the NAPA number because I own and operate a NAPA store!

Thanks again,
Guy

[ShoBoat]

Ok silly question, why can't we just use a separate air filter in the end of the clean side and have it to atmosphere? And not inside in the intake tubing at all? You would then be able to use the OEM port to supply vacuum to the RX and not have to drill. Even in the air box there will be some vacuum pulling on the other side of the RX if it was just to atmosphere then there would be none. Just curious.


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[dalum]

Ok silly question, why can't we just use a separate air filter in the end of the clean side and have it to atmosphere? And not inside in the intake tubing at all? You would then be able to use the OEM port to supply vacuum to the RX and not have to drill. Even in the air box there will be some vacuum pulling on the other side of the RX if it was just to atmosphere then there would be none. Just curious.


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This has to be vented back into the engine per emissions regulations.


FYI That sensor in the air box is a thermistor that measures the intake air temp.

[SwampRat]

Ok silly question, why can't we just use a separate air filter in the end of the clean side and have it to atmosphere? And not inside in the intake tubing at all? You would then be able to use the OEM port to supply vacuum to the RX and not have to drill. Even in the air box there will be some vacuum pulling on the other side of the RX if it was just to atmosphere then there would be none. Just curious.


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This has to be vented back into the engine per emissions regulations.


FYI That sensor in the air box is a thermistor that measures the intake air temp.

Don't really see this suggested alteration as being much different than what many are doing with the BOV VTA ..... A thought ......

EPA will probably throw us  in jail anyway for the tuning mods  we do anyway  , especially running  " off road down pipes " ..... I say Poo on em .

[dalum]

Don't really see this suggested alteration as being much different than what many are doing with the BOV VTA ..... A thought ......

EPA will probably throw us  in jail anyway for the tuning mods  we do anyway  , especially running  " off road down pipes " ..... I say Poo on em .

VTA mod "should" just be venting "clean" pressurized air.  A lot of people sell "off road" air filters that take the place of the oil cap (Rx included).  This should technically work but I would be concerned with all of the  oil splashing up when switching between boost/nonboost clogging the filter media restricting air intake into the pcv system.

[JimiJak]

A couple thoughts:

Putting a filter on the end of the CSS:
- True there would be NO vacuum at the filter, plus it would save you from drilling a hole in your airbox.
- Michigan, and many others are NON-INSPECTION states...so I could really care less what the EPA thinks.
- My primary concern would be for any oil mixture to reach the filter. This would mean it could accumulate and potentially enter the engine bay, and I don't want oil in my engine bay. IF the Rx can is doing its job, and the flow is flowing in the correct direction with exception of momentary reversion during transition periods, THEN the CSS should be able to remove ALL of the oil, so it would never touch the filter.
- If all of the above is correct, and you don't live in an EPA inspection state, then putting a filter on the end of the CSS should work as a BETTER option than re-routing to the airbox.

TRACY; YOUR INPUT ON THIS IS GREATLY APPRECIATED

As far as comparing the venting the charge pipes to atmosphere VS. venting the CSS to atmosphere:
- with the OEM setup, the clean side is getting stuff dumped into it while under boost, BUT it doesn't make it all the way back up to the eBOV in the charge pipes because it has the CAC there to act as a catch can.  ...just a theory.
- When venting to air, the further you back up in the system to the source of the oil, the more oil you'll get.

Anyone else have any thoughts on why installing a small breather filter on the end of the CSS wouldn't work?

[Tuner Boost]

And your getting plenty of water and unburnt fuel it appears....similar to the EB's int he trucks. So it is working like it should.  WHats it smell like?

[JimiJak]

And your getting plenty of water and unburnt fuel it appears....similar to the EB's int he trucks. So it is working like it should.  WHats it smell like?

Smells more like gas than oil.
What are your thoughts on a breather filter on the css rather than routing it to the airbox?
...in a non EPA-inspection state.