Megan coilovers and OEM alignment

[FracaSHO]

BPD posted a while ago about having issues with rear camber after installing lowering springs. He could not get back to OEM specs. But alas, he found a solution, thank you sir.  My question:  is anyone running into that same issue with Megan coilovers?  If so, will BPD's solution apply?  The dealer told me I'm very slightly out of alignment, but I want to wait until I install springs or coilovers.  If I go with the Megan's, should I have the dealer do an alignment before or after the install?  Much thanks.


Brad
2010 SHO with PP
170* T-Stat
NGK LTR7IX plugs, gap at 0.030
BOV VTA
MyCal LMS Stage 4+
Sent from my iPhone

[EcoPowerParts]

Megan is working on an upper adjustable control arm which will help immensely

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[EcoPowerParts]

Megan is working on an upper adjustable control arm which will help immensely but do alignment after install

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Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[Lanson]

BPD posted a while ago about having issues with rear camber after installing lowering springs. He could not get back to OEM specs. But alas, he found a solution, thank you sir.  My question:  is anyone running into that same issue with Megan coilovers?  If so, will BPD's solution apply?  The dealer told me I'm very slightly out of alignment, but I want to wait until I install springs or coilovers.  If I go with the Megan's, should I have the dealer do an alignment before or after the install?  Much thanks.


Brad
2010 SHO with PP
170* T-Stat
NGK LTR7IX plugs, gap at 0.030
BOV VTA
MyCal LMS Stage 4+
Sent from my iPhone

ALWAYS perform the alignment after any suspension work is performed (including the coilover install), but IMO you'll want to do it maybe a day or so after so the suspension has settled to proper final height.  Don't drive more than just a little bit, because you can eat tires up with way-off specs.  When the suspension is dropped, the rear camber will come in aggressively, and the front toe will toe out aggressively.  Both will eat tires for lunch. 

So, after the suspension has settled, get your alignment done.  REMEMBER that the rear alignment bolt at the top of the rear hub... it can be loosened but even dealers sometimes don't know this.  My aftermarket shop had no idea, I had to show them the OEM manual data and even then they were skeptical.  I said, loosen this bolt, and pull really hard...sure enough that trimmed the camber out.  From the factory, the adjustment is full negative as much as possible, so when you drop the car you'll need to max it out the other way. 

A little extra excessive rear camber may still end up in the system, but this isn't necessarily a bad thing.  You may be familiar with people using extra rear camber to clear oversize wheels and tires, sometimes.  Also, rear camber (without going to extremes) can help with rear grip in cornering dramatically.  So, a tiny bit out of spec is OK overall, at least with camber.  Toe needs to be on-point front and rear, and you want that accurate or you'll eat tires.  Toe is highly adjustable front and rear on our cars. 

Front camber is partially adjustable, but only positive .5 degrees per side and you'll likely not need to touch it.  Again, some camber up front helps with handling, and big tire/wheel fitments too.

[crash712us]

Align after install. Fronts have never been a problem. But there is very little adjustment in the rears all though most of have been able to bring there rears in alignment without the use of cam bolts.


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[FracaSHO]

One more question;  since the coilovers are adjustable, should I adjust them to the height I want then align? Or will the height have no bearing on alignment? 


Brad
2010 SHO with PP
170* T-Stat
NGK LTR7IX plugs, gap at 0.030
BOV VTA
MyCal LMS Stage 4+
Sent from my iPhone

[Lanson]

One more question;  since the coilovers are adjustable, should I adjust them to the height I want then align? Or will the height have no bearing on alignment? 


Brad
2010 SHO with PP
170* T-Stat
NGK LTR7IX plugs, gap at 0.030
BOV VTA
MyCal LMS Stage 4+
Sent from my iPhone

Yes, adjust fully, let it settle and make sure that's what you want, then align.  Alignment is entirely decided by ride height. 

[FracaSHO]

One more question;  since the coilovers are adjustable, should I adjust them to the height I want then align? Or will the height have no bearing on alignment? 


Brad
2010 SHO with PP
170* T-Stat
NGK LTR7IX plugs, gap at 0.030
BOV VTA
MyCal LMS Stage 4+
Sent from my iPhone

Yes, adjust fully, let it settle and make sure that's what you want, then align.  Alignment is entirely decided by ride height.

Well that kind of stinks. What's the point of adjustability if I need to realign every time I change ride height?  I do realize dropping lower at the track or for a show is one thing. But what if I what to go all the way up for winter/snow driving?  I'm so torn between springs only and the coil overs. But I can't really complain can I. My biggest problem right now is how to spend my money on fun things for my SHO!  Could definitely be worse.


Brad
2010 SHO with PP
170* T-Stat
NGK LTR7IX plugs, gap at 0.030
BOV VTA
MyCal LMS Stage 4+
Sent from my iPhone

[Lanson]

I wouldn't say it stinks, its just geometry at work.  It is hard to get mad at things working through physics and math. 

If you dramatically raise or drop the car, you should re-align.  If you raise it a tiny little bit or drop it a tiny little bit, we're not talking big differences here with the changes to measure.  Consider that you could leave the camber locked in fully (to the most positive it will go in this case) no matter what height you pick, but toe needs to be tweaked if you are lifting or dropping. 

If you want to do this a whole lot, maybe buy a simple alignment kit so you can do it yourself.  There are really great, relatively inexpensive kits to help you get the numbers just right, if you're changing it all the time.

One more question;  since the coilovers are adjustable, should I adjust them to the height I want then align? Or will the height have no bearing on alignment? 


Brad
2010 SHO with PP
170* T-Stat
NGK LTR7IX plugs, gap at 0.030
BOV VTA
MyCal LMS Stage 4+
Sent from my iPhone

Yes, adjust fully, let it settle and make sure that's what you want, then align.  Alignment is entirely decided by ride height.

Well that kind of stinks. What's the point of adjustability if I need to realign every time I change ride height?  I do realize dropping lower at the track or for a show is one thing. But what if I what to go all the way up for winter/snow driving?  I'm so torn between springs only and the coil overs. But I can't really complain can I. My biggest problem right now is how to spend my money on fun things for my SHO!  Could definitely be worse.


Brad
2010 SHO with PP
170* T-Stat
NGK LTR7IX plugs, gap at 0.030
BOV VTA
MyCal LMS Stage 4+
Sent from my iPhone

[crash712us]

Trust me you'll never raise and lower. The struts are fully adjustable, but it isn't something that exactly easy to do. When received and installed mine ride height was just about exactly where it was at with H&R's installed had make small adjustment to one of rears. Set it and forget it.

[donky4444]

Or you could get the lifetime alignment deal through a Firestone location and make them align it when ever you change ride height. I think it runs about $180 the first time and they will redo it as much as you bring it to them.

[ShoBoat]

Or you could get the lifetime alignment deal through a Firestone location and make them align it when ever you change ride height. I think it runs about $180 the first time and they will redo it as much as you bring it to them.

That's a freaking amazing deal!


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[Shonuff1140]

Firestone, and save your receipt!