Video of BOV's after intake and Stage 4 tune

[IHeartGroceries]

Well, I suppose they're mechanical still, since Big verified they've still got a spring. But, they are electronically actuated. The Tial units you've got, I'm sure, are vacuum actuated.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[SwampRat]

Well, I suppose they're mechanical still, since Big verified they've still got a spring. But, they are electronically actuated. The Tial units you've got, I'm sure, are vacuum actuated.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

So it is a separate solenoid that  controls the vacuum actuation of  the BOV  on the 13 ?

[painterpatt]

That's how mine sounds, (you can hear my vta BOV's also) especially after the tune. Makes all kinda noises, 4DR's did the same thing if you watch any of his in car videos

[IHeartGroceries]

The whistly reverb sound after the valve actuation whoosh is definitely not good. A fluttering valve is one thing. But you shouldn't be hearing a low toned whistle.

IMO, a correctly suited, sized, or adjusted BOV won't flutter and won't whistle. It should just be a clean, solid sneeze sound.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[BiGMaC]

Well, I suppose they're mechanical still, since Big verified they've still got a spring. But, they are electronically actuated. The Tial units you've got, I'm sure, are vacuum actuated.

So it is a separate solenoid that  controls the vacuum actuation of  the BOV  on the 13 ?

I don't know what causes the BoV's to open... but it does it by sending an electrical current to the solenoid in the '13 BoV... There are no vacuum lines to the BoVs.  The spring is very light and closes the valve... possibly magnets, I did not dismantle them

[SwampRat]

Well, I suppose they're mechanical still, since Big verified they've still got a spring. But, they are electronically actuated. The Tial units you've got, I'm sure, are vacuum actuated.

So it is a separate solenoid that  controls the vacuum actuation of  the BOV  on the 13 ?

I don't know what causes the BoV's to open... but it does it by sending an electrical current to the solenoid in the '13 BoV... There are no vacuum lines to the BoVs.  The spring is very light and closes the valve... possibly magnets, I did not dismantle them

OK .... the Kit that 4DR sells with the TIAL BOV is mechanical and is what I got from You ...

I haven't looked at it yet . I won't be home till the weekend .

Vacuum to the Tial BOV is not a problem , I  think .
The question is with the OEM 13 BOV's not present and the wiring not plugged in , will the ECU have issues with this and trigger a fault ?

[BiGMaC]

Well, I suppose they're mechanical still, since Big verified they've still got a spring. But, they are electronically actuated. The Tial units you've got, I'm sure, are vacuum actuated.

So it is a separate solenoid that  controls the vacuum actuation of  the BOV  on the 13 ?

I don't know what causes the BoV's to open... but it does it by sending an electrical current to the solenoid in the '13 BoV... There are no vacuum lines to the BoVs.  The spring is very light and closes the valve... possibly magnets, I did not dismantle them

OK .... the Kit that 4DR sells with the TIAL BOV is mechanical and is what I got from You ...

I haven't looked at it yet . I won't be home till the weekend .

Vacuum to the Tial BOV is not a problem , I  think .
The question is with the OEM 13 BOV's not present and the wiring not plugged in , will the ECU have issues with this and trigger a fault ?

correct... works fine per 4DR... the springs are changeable and I think also adjustable for setting the pressure to open.

[SwampRat]

correct... works fine per 4DR... the springs are changeable and I think also adjustable for setting the pressure to open.

The question is with the OEM 13 BOV's not present and the wiring not plugged in , will the ECU have issues with this and trigger a fault  or code ?

[bpd1151]

If you unplug the factory BOV's, I believe you will throw a CEL.

IIRC, I think 4DR was suggesting leaving them plugged in, but zip tie them out of the way (for those using the Tial BOV).

I also think 4DR mentioned something about having a work-around, or a fix to the CEL potential, if one wanted to unplug the factory BOV's as well.

Hopefully he'll chime in, when he has a moment to do so.


Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

[SwampRat]

If you unplug the factory BOV's, I believe you will throw a CEL.

IIRC, I think 4DR was suggesting leaving them plugged in, but zip tie them out of the way (for those using the Tial BOV).

I also think 4DR mentioned something about having a work-around, or a fix to the CEL potential, if one wanted to unplug the factory BOV's as well.

Hopefully he'll chime in, when he has a moment to do so.


Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info ...rather do a work-around .
Extra stuff hanging around in the engine bay   ....  a little messy .

I wonder if Torrie could tune it out ?

[BiGMaC]

If you unplug the factory BOV's, I believe you will throw a CEL.

IIRC, I think 4DR was suggesting leaving them plugged in, but zip tie them out of the way (for those using the Tial BOV).

I also think 4DR mentioned something about having a work-around, or a fix to the CEL potential, if one wanted to unplug the factory BOV's as well.

Hopefully he'll chime in, when he has a moment to do so.


Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info ...rather do a work-around .
Extra stuff hanging around in the engine bay   ....  a little messy .

I wonder if Torrie could tune it out ?

Actually you can unplug the front BoV entirely without a problem.  4Dr says to leave the back BoV plugged in  to the electric wiring plug and secure it ... then no CEL and it's hidden under the engine cover.  The work around 4DR was working on was a resistor replacing the back BoV that made the car think it was still there, but I don't know if he ever finished it...

Like bpd... hope he'll chime in.

[painterpatt]

You sure thats not wastegate noise releasing pressure before it builds on light throttle. Since my tune if I get on it hard and let off right before a shift I get the telltale pshhhh. Right after a shift a high pitch chirp, almost like a tire chirp.

[IHeartGroceries]

Yes, I would think your could run a purely mechanical unit just fine. All you'll need is the ability to fasten it, such as a flange, and do away with the electrical workings.

I doubt you're hearing any WG activity. I don't know how the control circuit works on the EB, but I'd assume there is a solenoid which bleeds vacuum away from a WGA diaphragm, which keeps the WG flapper closed inside the turbine housing, allowing more boost to build.
More vacuum on the WGA diaphragm actuates the WG, resulting in reducing boost pressure.

Generally these activities are near silent in OE configuration. Especially considering the control circuit solenoids are controlled by duty cycle, which means they're almost constantly working to actuate the wastegates.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[dalum]

Mine are very audible with my K&N cai.  They actually stage because if I let off the gas just right I'll here one pfft after the first pfft.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[IHeartGroceries]

I hear mine almost constantly. These electronic actuated units actuate so slightly, under the lightest throttle. It is crazy.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk