SHO Spark Plug Replacement How-to

[Larrylu]

Anybody know what torque is called for in tightening the plugs?

[SHOdded]

I don't know if the EB 3.5's are the same, but on the Edge, the COP bolts are 62 in-lb, and the spark plugs are 133 in-lb.  I usually get the plugs in finger tight, then carefully maybe, maybe an 1/8 of a turn afterwards, since the heads are aluminium.

[Larrylu]

I don't know if the EB 3.5's are the same, but on the Edge, the COP bolts are 62 in-lb, and the spark plugs are 133 in-lb.  I usually get the plugs in finger tight, then carefully maybe, maybe an 1/8 of a turn afterwards, since the heads are aluminium.

Thanks!  Plugs arrive Monday. Now I'm ready

[Joleat]

Excellent write-up!

Now for a comment on torque specs.

I don't know if any of my fellow Ecoboosters are previous 4.6/5.4 owners, but if those engines are any indication as to how important it is to properly torque your spark plugs, then I would be very cautious to apply any torque beyond what is specified by Ford. Aluminum heads are both a blessing and a curse. For those of you who have experience with those engines, I know there is a little more to it than just the torque values, but I just want to throw out a friendly word of caution.

If the torque values provided above are accurate for our 3.5 Ecos, then keep in mind that 62 inch lbs. and 133 inch lbs. equates to roughly 5 foot lbs. and 11 foot lbs., respectively. That is barely hand tight. There's no need for gorilla grip when changing plugs.

[IHeartGroceries]

Anybody know what torque is called for in tightening the plugs?

I wasn't aware of Ford's tq spec. at the time, which is why I didn't list any specifics in the OP.

I torqued to 11 ft.lbs, because that's the spec. I've used for years in my previous engines w/ aluminum heads.

At 10 to 12 lbs, your snug enough, without having to worry about stripping out threads,  IMO.

If somebody can source the actual specification, I can add it to the OP.

This job too me about 45 minutes, including prepping the plugs. And I was lolly gaging around here and there too. If you really can get in there and do it without displacing the valve cover vent and the piping, I could definitely see it done in 20 or 30 minutes.

I'm the type of guy who'll go out of the way a tad to make the job less stressful. Confined workspace is aggravating for me. I get worked up alot, wrenching on automobiles. Haha! XD

By the way, I'm welcoming of additional, helpful information. If I left something out, or if you've found a way to simplify the process, by all means, share it! It won't offend me any.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[FracaSHO]

I changed my plugs last night using this thread as reference. Went fairly smoothly with one hiccup. The rubber boot attached to the bottom of the coil was my issue. 4 out of 6 stayed on the plug. The first one being the passenger side by the firewall, aka the most PITA one to get at. A pair of long needle nose pliers are definitely required to get the boot out. After ripping apart the first one with short needle nose pliers, I borrowed a long one from my Dad. I was then able to get a good hold and pull then right out, completely intact. I went to Ford first thing this morning and got a new one, plus 2 extras just in case. Here's a pic. They were only $2.45 each.

Here's a pic of it attached to the bottom of the coil.

Since I have big hands, thus making it extremely hard to work in tight spots, I moved the strut tower brace to gain a little more room. Just remove the 4 nuts and slide it forward out of the way. Or you can take it completely off, but I didn't do that. Here's a pic of the driver side, passenger side the same.

Finally, even though I had no issue getting the stock plugs off, I still used anti seize on the new ones. 

Once I had everything put back together, I started her up and she purred like a kitten.   


Brad
2010 SHO with PP
MyCal LMS Stage 3
Sent from my iPhone

[SHODYOU]

Thank you for this effort... this is my first transverse engine so it was most def useful today!

[mjhpadi]

I guess mine is totally different. I didnt remove anything, just the 6 bolts, the 6 coils, and 6 plugs. I didnt unbolt the EVAP, or charge pipe, just worked around it.

Im used to working on motorcycles though, so I thought it felt like tons of room. lol

Good info!  I'm an old scooter guy myself (Aspencade, the old 10:1 compression... touring, not a rocket)

Me too, I had a Gold Wing before they came dressed...had to put on the old Vetter Windjammer fairings, bags, and lowers...even had a custom seat for my first one!  Now back to topic...

[ElvenSho]

Well I am attempting this today after work Wish me luck! lol



BTW thanks for the How-to!

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1980.msg26872.html#msg26872

[SHOnUup]

Well I am attempting this today after work Wish me luck! lol



BTW thanks for the How-to!

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1980.msg26872.html#msg26872

Good luck, pretty simple job.

Rich

[ElvenSho]

Just got it done 15 min ago. Pretty simple job thanks to the how-to. Took me about an hour.

[SHOdded]

Awesome   Hope you don't mind, but I edited a couple of posts with a quote of the How-To with links instead.  Makes the thread a lot easier to read.

[peppelepugh]

Thanks for the How-To! I used this today when changing my plugs for my UNLEASHED TUNE!

NOTE: Do not have car keys in your pocket while doing this change... Remote start button being pressed when you have one of the plugs out and the car starts without you knowing leads to a lot of rushing to open a car door... hahaha

[welcome2thebigSHO]

Thanks!! Did this about 1.5 hours.  Had to find the right ratchet extensions then dropped one down the back of the motor.  About 30 minutes was wasted on stupid stuff.

[SHOdded]

Ahoy there, matey, welcome to EBPF!  Glad this writeup was of help to ya