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How install Megan coil overs.

Started by crash712us, January 22, 2014, 06:08:23 PM

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crash712us

Not sure this the best way to do this, so mods work your magic if you can.


This is more a amendment to 4dr's how to.

I found a few critical things not outlined in 4dr's post

1 orientation of front struts mounting plate. I have no picture's detailing this nor does 4dr. But the megan coil overs top mount plate has half circle cut out of the mounting plate. That cut out must point inward toward engine, if install pointing away coil over will not be center in tower and top nut will rub tower.

2. rear coil upper mount, 4dr says remove upper rubber bushing from factory washer, do not do this. I did and the wash they provided pull thru twice with in a few miles. And is not necessary, however you will notice the nut that is caged in this assembly, simply pry off cage and discard nut.

3. It mentioned in 4dr thread, you will need to enlarge stabilizer bar end link hole. To 14mm most drill sets only go to 1/2 or 13mm so you will need to pick this up and you want one that has a reduce shank as most drill chuck are only 1/2"

Other these few items its is straight forward job and should only take about 3hrs, now for you guys 2013 or newer should about half that you get to skip removing entire steering knuckle.

Original post:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=675

2011 tuxedo black non pp, LMS stage 5, Corsa cat back, LMS down pipes, Airaid, Alky control meth injection, Megan Racing coil overs, EBC rotor&pads, Mobsteel grill, 2013 trans cooler. 403whp 417wtq 12.25 @ 110

SwampRat

#1
May be an easier install on the 2013-14 but they First need to get it made and SOLD  to us ..


Update :  2013/14 platform in prototype stage with Megan ..... see : www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=2013.0
2013 SHO  ....  not mine anymore

2021 Edge ST

bpd1151

You would think they'd include the modifications noted throughout this "How-To" into the '10-'12 years as well, so the install can be as easy as expected it's going to be for the 13+ crowd.

It would likely increase sales even further if they do so and eliminate the hoops needed to be jumped through as of current.

:popcorn:

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk


Frozen Taurus

Can I get clarification on what I need for the rear kit on a 2011 install? The literature says I need an M14 70mm nut ... do they mean bolt instead? Never heard of a 70mm nut. Also can you not just reuse factory nut / bolt combo to reattach the shock to the rear control arm? What changes from the Megan shock to the factory shock that necessitates a nut/bolt change?
2011 Tuxedo Black SHO non PP, K&N drop in, TCE Big Brake Kit, Megan Racing Coilovers
My other car is a 447 awhp Talon

SHOnUup

Quote from: Frozen Taurus on August 10, 2015, 01:21:19 PM
Can I get clarification on what I need for the rear kit on a 2011 install? The literature says I need an M14 70mm nut ... do they mean bolt instead? Never heard of a 70mm nut. Also can you not just reuse factory nut / bolt combo to reattach the shock to the rear control arm? What changes from the Megan shock to the factory shock that necessitates a nut/bolt change?
Yes you need the "bolt"...factory one has a little locking flare on it that doesn't fit the new setup.

Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

SHOnUup

Be prepared to drill out the front holes where the sway bar end links mount also...they don't fit

Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

nickstewartroc

#6
Alright has anyone install the front coil overs with the stock sway bar links? The nut that is on them is too long, to where the nylon "lock" part of it doesn't get to the threads. Comparing the Megans to the stock strut assembly you can see that on the Megans, it has a thick spacer welded onto the bracket, whereas the stocks are just the bracket. Should I just order some correct size grade 8 self locking (nylon locking) nuts?
Current:
2013 Ruby Red Flex Limited EcoBoost, Unleashed Tuned, drop in filter

Gone but not forgotten: 2011 SHO Non-PP in Black Tuxedo Metallic - Catback, DPs, Stoptech Z23s, MDesign CAI, LMS Tune

EcoPowerParts

Yeah just get a different bolt/nut, you'll be fine.
Mike B | info@ecopowerparts.com
www.ecopowerparts.com -
please use my website for any price quotes and to submit any orders.
Please email me via info@ecopowerparts.com if you have any questions on new or existing orders, PM's via the forum are hard to track your purchase as I can't relate user name to actual name.
https://www.facebook.com/ecopowerparts

SHOnUup

Isn't the problem in that the hole on the coilovers isn't big enough to allow the sway bar end link to fit through?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

nickstewartroc

That was problem one. I drilled out the hole to 9/16 so that it would accept the end link, but problem two is that the nut is too long to where even when it is fully seated and tightened to the torque spec the nylon lock part of the nut is not on any of the threads

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk

Current:
2013 Ruby Red Flex Limited EcoBoost, Unleashed Tuned, drop in filter

Gone but not forgotten: 2011 SHO Non-PP in Black Tuxedo Metallic - Catback, DPs, Stoptech Z23s, MDesign CAI, LMS Tune

SHOnUup



Quote from: nickstewartroc on September 18, 2015, 10:35:19 PM
That was problem one. I drilled out the hole to 9/16 so that it would accept the end link, but problem two is that the nut is too long to where even when it is fully seated and tightened to the torque spec the nylon lock part of the nut is not on any of the threads

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk

I'm using the aftermarket end links from PowerGrid inc....and they are barely catching the lock part...barely, but still good after about 8k miles.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

nickstewartroc

Not to seem dumb, but what would be the general use for them over the stock ones?
Current:
2013 Ruby Red Flex Limited EcoBoost, Unleashed Tuned, drop in filter

Gone but not forgotten: 2011 SHO Non-PP in Black Tuxedo Metallic - Catback, DPs, Stoptech Z23s, MDesign CAI, LMS Tune

SHOnUup

Quote from: nickstewartroc on September 22, 2015, 02:03:40 PM
Not to seem dumb, but what would be the general use for them over the stock ones?
With the adjustable end links you can get the car corner balanced.

http://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w204/432330-reason-use-adjustable-sway-bar-end-links.html

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

SHOnUup

Quote from: nickstewartroc on September 22, 2015, 02:03:40 PM
Not to seem dumb, but what would be the general use for them over the stock ones?
Only dumb question out there...the one you don't ask...better to know than not.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

nickstewartroc

Thanks! Looks like that is one upgrade I don't need!
Current:
2013 Ruby Red Flex Limited EcoBoost, Unleashed Tuned, drop in filter

Gone but not forgotten: 2011 SHO Non-PP in Black Tuxedo Metallic - Catback, DPs, Stoptech Z23s, MDesign CAI, LMS Tune