System Build

Fast SHO · December 21, 2013, 03:16:03 PM

MDF for box. I am not actually installing, just helping the installer with some questions he had unique to the Taurus SHO.

Going to pick it up tomorrow. He is just tuning the DSP right now.

Some more pictures:

BiGMaC · December 21, 2013, 05:03:21 PM

Very Cool!!! Anxious to see the final install! Waiting for those pics!

Fast SHO · December 22, 2013, 02:10:08 PM

Picked it up today. Sounds good, I just need to tune it to my exact liking. Tweets are a bit bright right now and I might need to adjust some gains. Going active without a crossover makes it a touch more time consuming but the benefit is a fuller sound and more control.

Installer did a good job and the deadening of the doors made a big difference.

Final product looks like that last pic but with a sub and panels to cover them.

BiGMaC · December 22, 2013, 03:40:14 PM

Merry Christmas!!!

SHOdded · December 22, 2013, 07:33:08 PM

Carols, now heard in 3D! Enjoy the new setup, and don't forget to go WOT a few times too!

Fast SHO · December 22, 2013, 10:04:08 PM

Thanks. I'm super busy right now. Movers come tomorrow to send our household items to Germany and I'm trying to get the car ready to ship as well.

BiGMaC · December 22, 2013, 10:10:50 PM

Quote from: Fast SHO on December 22, 2013, 10:04:08 PM
Thanks. I'm super busy right now. Movers come tomorrow to send our household items to Germany and I'm trying to get the car ready to ship as well.

EuroSHO! military?

Fast SHO · December 22, 2013, 11:38:41 PM

Active Army.

I have a lot to learn about tuning this DSP. Almost too many settings. You can control gain, crossover, time alignment, phase, etc...

Time to start reading some tutorials about what frequencies each component is supposed to play and where to increase the DB's within each freq range.

Final pics:

BiGMaC · December 23, 2013, 12:20:07 AM

Well Army (I'm retired USAF)... THANK-YOU!

I helped build 2 vehicles with Alma Gates (Google her.. seriously) and her son While I lived in Payson... one was a Bronco which was national SPL champ for several years in the early 90's (180DB+) and also the national sound quality champ, an F250 SC.

Early recs are:

After you know you have no phase cancellation (see below) use of an RTA can be a starting place (your installer should have done this)... but your hearing is unique, so use a couple of you fav songs and make it so you like it... keep written record of chaqnges as you make them.... and all final settings (for when your battery goes dead!).. keep the latter in the car.

About the tuning (tweaking we call it)....

You should be able to adjust time delay using distance or a supplied microphone... if not let it go.

Leave gain at factory neutral... use volume controls on the head unit.... adjust gain last at the volume you will use most. Usually this is an EQ and you end up with a "V" shaped pattern because our hearing is worst at the highest and lowest frequencies.

Cross subs at 100HZ (too high) to start and work down using your fav song and your ear... i think you'l find something between 40-70 Hz about right to divide subs and mids and get a "bump". Overlap mids with this about 5-10Hz... your tweets should already be done but likely about 2500HZ and above.

Phase-leave it alone if you hear the subs... get a CD with "phase clicks" to check for phase cancellation. Your installer should have done this.

Again Thanks for making my life safe!. and enjoy Germany. It can be fun!

shoman04 · December 23, 2013, 01:30:11 AM

Quote from: BiGMaC on December 23, 2013, 12:20:07 AM
Well Army (I'm retired USAF)... THANK-YOU!
RETIRED Navy.

SHOdded · December 23, 2013, 04:21:41 AM

Quote from: Fast SHO on December 22, 2013, 11:38:41 PM
Final pics:

Had to look hard to recognize the panel covers

Looks factory!

Lanson · December 23, 2013, 09:54:23 AM

Quote from: BiGMaC on December 23, 2013, 12:20:07 AM
Well Army (I'm retired USAF)... THANK-YOU!

I helped build 2 vehicles with Alma Gates (Google her.. seriously) and her son While I lived in Payson... one was a Bronco which was national SPL champ for several years in the early 90's (180DB+) and also the national sound quality champ, an F250 SC.

Early recs are:

After you know you have no phase cancellation (see below) use of an RTA can be a starting place (your installer should have done this)... but your hearing is unique, so use a couple of you fav songs and make it so you like it... keep written record of chaqnges as you make them.... and all final settings (for when your battery goes dead!).. keep the latter in the car.

About the tuning (tweaking we call it)....

You should be able to adjust time delay using distance or a supplied microphone... if not let it go.

Leave gain at factory neutral... use volume controls on the head unit.... adjust gain last at the volume you will use most. Usually this is an EQ and you end up with a "V" shaped pattern because our hearing is worst at the highest and lowest frequencies.

Cross subs at 100HZ (too high) to start and work down using your fav song and your ear... i think you'l find something between 40-70 Hz about right to divide subs and mids and get a "bump". Overlap mids with this about 5-10Hz... your tweets should already be done but likely about 2500HZ and above.

Phase-leave it alone if you hear the subs... get a CD with "phase clicks" to check for phase cancellation. Your installer should have done this.

Again Thanks for making my life safe!. and enjoy Germany. It can be fun!

+1 to all of that. Except overlapping, as I would say that depends on the crossover slope you are using, and whether or not you are using digital processing, or more analog types. Reason: phase distortion is present in analog types.

Sweet that you were on Alma's team. Props for that.

Fast SHO · December 23, 2013, 10:06:04 AM

Digital Signal Processor.

Mosconi 4to6.

Using Linkwitz-Riley 12DB slope on everything. Still figuring things out.

Set tweets to a highpass of 2500

Woofers high pass at 65 and high at 2500

Subs low pass at 70

Havn't even tried to equalize any channels. I have the woofers on channels 1 and 2 and have 32 equalization options...mind blowing.

Time delay can be adjusted by distance but I don't think I'm saving it right in the 4to6 processor.

BTW, what is considered factory neutral. Out of the box the amp gain was set such that turning the radio up halfway was too loud. And going active I have the tweets on their own channel, so that channel I have gained pretty low to prevent damage.

BiGMaC · December 23, 2013, 03:15:01 PM

Quote from: Fast SHO on December 23, 2013, 10:06:04 AM
Digital Signal Processor.

Mosconi 4to6.

Using Linkwitz-Riley 12DB slope on everything. Still figuring things out.

Set tweets to a highpass of 2500

Woofers high pass at 65 and high at 2500

Subs low pass at 70

Havn't even tried to equalize any channels. I have the woofers on channels 1 and 2 and have 32 equalization options...mind blowing.

Time delay can be adjusted by distance but I don't think I'm saving it right in the 4to6 processor.

BTW, what is considered factory neutral. Out of the box the amp gain was set such that turning the radio up halfway was too loud. And going active I have the tweets on their own channel, so that channel I have gained pretty low to prevent damage.

Once you like the sound you can just lower all the EQ settings (they are gain controls) keeping their relationship the same. That will allow finer volume control from your factory head unit and keep ,you from over driving a speaker causing mechanical damage.

Fast SHO · December 23, 2013, 03:27:55 PM

I was having an issue with the sound being a bit muted on the highs. Couldn't figure out how to fix it until I changed the woofer low pass to 18KHZ. That is high, but the woofers are rated for it. The result is that it really filled out the sound. Here is how my freqs are set.

I know most people say to low pass the woofers at 2500 with a low pass overlapping the sub, but for some reason it just sounds better with it at 18KHZ and tweeters high passed at 2500.