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Ford racing gauges??????

Started by FracaSHO, November 19, 2013, 02:58:53 PM

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FracaSHO

I need to fill the 3 empty holes in my center gauge pod. I want ford racing gauges, and nothing else.

1) Boost.
2) oil or fuel pressure?  Which one, pros and cons for both?
3) I originally wanted an air/fuel gauge. But Ford Racing doesn't have one. But I read that a pyrometer can be used to monitor air/fuel: if the EGT is hot, running rich. EGT cold, running lean. Am I correct?  I would like to be able to keep an eye on this since I am going to tune and mod, eventually, and I have had a bad experience with a tuner in the past. I just want to make sure my SHO is running good.

Thanks.


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Brad
2010 Tuxedo Black SHO w/ PP

steve142857

I have boost, water temp and oil pressure... Oil pressure is useless for me. I may change it for air-fuel ratio eventually... This is the second pod I buy from crash (Chris Curtis) and been having These three gauges for almost two years now. Prosports gauges. First were with "needle" now digital...
2010 blue wrapped SHO 12.09 at 117.9mph - SOLD
2013 SHO PP 12.08 at 113.83mph...
Alky control, LMS tuned, custom exhaust, LMS catted downpipes, H&R springs, Tstat170, 3bar map, Airaid

Frozen Taurus

#2
Monitoring EGT's is fairly useless. High EGT's can be a sign of a lean tune or a tune that has a lot of engine knock and timing retard because of the lean condition. But I have also seen high EGTs from extremely rich condition and possible knock from that....

I have had a EGT probe and gauge in my Talon for years and I never use it anymore.

Three gauges that are a must are wide band o2, fuel pressure and boost
2011 Tuxedo Black SHO non PP, K&N drop in, TCE Big Brake Kit, Megan Racing Coilovers
My other car is a 447 awhp Talon

Larrylu


Quote from: Frozen Taurus on November 19, 2013, 06:21:33 PM
Monitoring EGT's is fairly useless. High EGT's can be a sign of a lean tune or a tune that has a lot of engine knock and timing retard because of the lean condition. But I have also seen high EGTs from extremely rich condition and possible knock from that....

I have had a EGT probe and gauge in my Talon for years and I never use it anymore.

Three gauges that are a must are wide band o2, fuel pressure and boost

Please elaborate on the wide band and it's importance.
2010 Loaded, Non PP, Steel Blue Metallic, Livernois Stage 4+, Blacked out grill, Nexus 7 Tablet running Torque Pro

Frozen Taurus

Wide band readings are actual AF ratios coming out of your engine....you get instant feedback on what's going with your engine under WOT conditions
2011 Tuxedo Black SHO non PP, K&N drop in, TCE Big Brake Kit, Megan Racing Coilovers
My other car is a 447 awhp Talon

crash712us

I hear you there I was the same way when I saw the Ford racing gauges. In my opinion just about all gauges are mostly aesthetics. But answer to one of your question a fuel pressure gauge I don't think would be beneficial as I don't think there is a gauge available to display DI fuel pressures which in our case would read beyond 2000psi. However you could monitor lift pump fuel pressure, but its not ideally what you'd be after.
Now with that all said, don't for get about Autometer custom shop. You can design your own gauges.

Here some gauges I designed for 2010-2012 taurus sho.

2011 tuxedo black non pp, LMS stage 5, Corsa cat back, LMS down pipes, Airaid, Alky control meth injection, Megan Racing coil overs, EBC rotor&pads, Mobsteel grill, 2013 trans cooler. 403whp 417wtq 12.25 @ 110

Frozen Taurus

Quote from: crash712us on November 19, 2013, 09:30:42 PM
But answer to one of your question a fuel pressure gauge I don't think would be beneficial as I don't think there is a gauge available to display DI fuel pressures which in our case would read beyond 2000psi. However you could monitor lift pump fuel pressure, but its not ideally what you'd be after.

Here some gauges I designed for 2010-2012 taurus sho.


Yes not sure there is anything that can handle that kinda of pressure as far as sending units go....nor would I want to plumb one into the fuel system in case of a leak  :crazy:
2011 Tuxedo Black SHO non PP, K&N drop in, TCE Big Brake Kit, Megan Racing Coilovers
My other car is a 447 awhp Talon

FracaSHO

So boost, wideband and oil pressure or EGT?  How would I interpret the wideband? What should the air/fuel be? Does it change with different tunes? How do I know what it should be?  Sorry for all the "newbie" questions, I'm not well versed on this subject.


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Brad
2010 Tuxedo Black SHO w/ PP

Frozen Taurus

At idle WB readings will sweep back and forth around 14.7:1 .... under WOT it will stop sweeping and land at desired AF ratio according to the tune. I tune for 11.3:1 on pump gas but will go leaner with methanol injection...more like 11.7:1.

Some tuners stay on the rich side 10.2:1 ... but that's a little too safe I think
2011 Tuxedo Black SHO non PP, K&N drop in, TCE Big Brake Kit, Megan Racing Coilovers
My other car is a 447 awhp Talon

crash712us

Quote from: FracaSHO on November 19, 2013, 09:38:25 PM
So boost, wideband and oil pressure or EGT?  How would I interpret the wideband? What should the air/fuel be? Does it change with different tunes? How do I know what it should be?  Sorry for all the "newbie" questions, I'm not well versed on this subject.


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With A/F ratio's 14.1 is stoich meaning this would be the happy medium not to rich and not to lean. Lower numbers less then 14 are rich, higher number above 14 are lean. So at idle fully warmed up you should see near 14 also at a cruise, at WOT it will probably drop to the 10's and under deceleration with throttle closed will go extremely lean. But whats important is you never go lean while under a load.

2011 tuxedo black non pp, LMS stage 5, Corsa cat back, LMS down pipes, Airaid, Alky control meth injection, Megan Racing coil overs, EBC rotor&pads, Mobsteel grill, 2013 trans cooler. 403whp 417wtq 12.25 @ 110

FracaSHO

So if I go with a boost and wideband, what should my third gauge be?


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Brad
2010 Tuxedo Black SHO w/ PP

BiGMaC

My choice for #3 would be oil pressure.  Better than an idiot light and better chance of preventing destruction of lubricated engine parts/mods.

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

DJE624


Wild13SHO

I see no point in running an AFR gauge unless you have a warning light setup on it. How are you going to watch the gauge when you're WOT and say racing. A single EGT gauge isn't all that useful either, should be ready individual port EGTs.
Oil temps would be a good gauge especially if you plan on running a lower thermostat. You want to make sure your oil is up to temp prior to beating on the car or making sure its not too hot. Maybe a water/math fail safe gauge with warning light and a trans temp gauge will be my other two.Oil pressure might not be a bad idea.
Current:
2016 F150 2.7L Ecoboost.  Stock for Now
SOLD:
2013 SHO 400A, PP

bpd1151

It's kind of funny reading all the back -n- forth discussion on what gauges are needed, or for what basis a particular gauge is "necessary" (or not) versus any other gauge.

I tend to think that each of us who have the ability to run any extra gauges whatsoever, will choose what each thinks is best for their own application.

Different owners will have differing reasons for running w/e it is that they choose to.... it's an argument that is somewhat akin to what brands or weights, or types of oil to use.

All that said, each gauge will obviously monitor said specific parameter it was designed/intended for.... 

Reading over the (some) of the posts contained in this thread, I would say that going forward, subsequent posters should keep in mind, that an articulation of what each gauge is designed to perform, as well as why it may be important to monitor said parameter, would hold significantly more weight, than simply interjecting an unsupported opinion on what is better, and what is useless, or there's no need to monitor blah blah blah and so on and so on.....

Here's a pic of my set up as it sits to this day:



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