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Strange brake problem. Problem?

Started by SoCalSHO, October 24, 2013, 12:05:28 AM

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DJE624

#15
October 24, 2013, 10:57:13 PM
Cool.  I'm sure you can do it.  8.3 supposedly converts to 12.95. 

adforce

#16
March 03, 2015, 12:09:58 PM
Did this problem ever get diagnosed and fixed?  I am having a similar issue though not at the track.  My problem is intermittent with a couple of emergency brake situations and the brakes just don't seem to work as they should.  Both times on the highway at about 70 mph coming up quickly on rapidly slowing traffic.  The other day I also had to brake very hard just to get my car to a stop after backing out of my garage.  After that incident I tried some hard stops from about 30 mph and it took about 6 attempts before the brakes finally started working correctly.  Initially the brakes wouldn't even kick in the ABS along with long stopping distances and then after about 6 attempts the ABS would finally start kicking in with some lock up.  I would think with only 225 width snow tires I could get some lock up pretty quickly.

adforce

#17
March 03, 2015, 12:15:02 PM
Also, this is a 2014 SHO PP with only 8000 miles.

SHOdded

#18
March 03, 2015, 12:16:10 PM Last Edit: March 03, 2015, 12:17:50 PM by SHOdded
Could be a master cylinder/brake booster going, if traction was not an issue.  Pedal hard or soft?  Try having the brakes bled first.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

adforce

#19
March 03, 2015, 12:23:08 PM
Pedal is always hard and feel never changes, so guessing a booster most likely?

I need to take it into the dealer to get a couple other things fixed but wanted to see if anyone had a similar issue first.

SHOdded

#20
March 03, 2015, 12:34:07 PM
Booster is a good guess, have master checked for leak while at it.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Bosscav

#21
March 03, 2015, 09:27:04 PM
I have the identical issue. Soft and spongy under normal braking (too soft) and unbearably hard braking under emergency/panic braking or after a WOT run.

I plan to retrofit the 2013+ booster and master cylinder in the spring. There is a write up on how to do it on EcoBoost Performance Forum.
2010 Ford Taurus SHO, White Platinum Tri-coat Metallic, 402B options package, 20" Nickel Aluminum wheels, purchased 6/26/2014 with only 17k miles. Previous owner: Little old woman who bought it for the heated leather seats...

adforce

#22
June 17, 2015, 07:47:55 PM
I finally had a chance to take it to the dealership and guess what, they can't reproduce or find anything wrong.  The tech did say that after first starting the car it takes a bit for fluid pressures to come up to normal... which might explain the backing out of my garage and having to break abnormally hard on my driveway since it is quite steep.  However, it does not explain difficultly stopping under emergency situations after not having used the brakes for a while (highway driving) or the fact that I couldn't get ABS to kick in on a full brake from 30 mph with snow tires on.

Anyone have any advice?  Everyone else seems to think the brakes on the 2013+ PP are pretty good.  In my car they are very inconsistent on the street which is odd.  I can tell the difference between first using the brakes after not using them for several minutes vs using them again after just using them.  Not like these are track pads that need to be warmed up.

ecoboostsho

#23
June 17, 2015, 09:56:19 PM
Check the vacuum hose that goes to the brake booster....dealer knocked mine off during a service visit. It's right on top and easy to spot. I actually clamped mine on so it couldn't happen again.
2013 White SHO w/PP, Gearhead Tuned, 3 Bar, 160T, Plugs...Mess with the Bull and you'll get the Horn. :)
Previous 2011 Tuxedo Black SHO w/PP - 12.89 1/4 Mile

ZSHO

#24
June 17, 2015, 10:33:02 PM
I was curious if you always utilized your remote start and if it always functioned properly cause to be honest these cars do not throw codes easily which is a good and bad thing,example no brake pad sensors to alert you until you cant fully stop,go figure.  Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

adforce

#25
June 17, 2015, 11:39:10 PM
I checked every hose I could see, with the plastic cover off, and everything is connected properly.  I was hoping my noise and brakes were related actually but guess not.  I also just did a test to see if it is the brake booster (turn car off, pump brakes, turn back on car) and everything seems to be functioning, at least right at the moment.  I pretty much thought the dealership wouldn't be able to figure this out since it is intermittent but wanted to try.  Having brakes that aren't 100% all the time isn't a fun problem.

adforce

#26
June 17, 2015, 11:40:24 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2015, 10:33:02 PM
I was curious if you always utilized your remote start and if it always functioned properly cause to be honest these cars do not throw codes easily which is a good and bad thing,example no brake pad sensors to alert you until you cant fully stop,go figure.  Z

Don't really know where you are going with this...

SHOdded

#27
June 18, 2015, 06:47:09 AM
You may want to try pulling the brake booster vacuum line off the manifold and then starting the car (keep emergency/parking brake on).  If the pedal feel is the same as while the line is connected, then it's likely not the booster.

Installation of stainless braided brake lines can also increase pedal stiffness since it takes away the flex the rubber hose would normally have.

This is the diagnostic from a 2007 Edge FSM:

Brake Booster


  • Inspect all vacuum hoses and connections. All unused vacuum connections must be capped. Hoses and their connections must be correctly secured and in good condition with no holes, cracks or collapsed areas.
  • Check the brake hydraulic system for leaks or insufficient brake fluid. Repair as necessary.
  • With the engine OFF, place the transaxle in PARK (A/T) or NEUTRAL (M/T) and apply the parking brake.
  • NOTE: If the power brake booster is noisy when the brakes are applied, a new component must be installed.
    Apply and hold the brake pedal several times to exhaust all of the vacuum reserve from the system.
  • Apply and hold the brake pedal.
  • Start the engine. If the vacuum system is operating, the brake pedal will move downward slightly under constant foot pressure. If no movement occurs, the power brake booster system is not functioning. Turn the engine OFF.
  • Remove the vacuum hose from the power brake booster.
  • Place the transaxle in PARK (A/T) or NEUTRAL (M/T) and apply the parking brake. Start the engine. Manifold vacuum should be available from the vacuum booster hose. If manifold vacuum is not available, inspect all of the hoses and hose connections. Repair as necessary.
  • Connect the vacuum booster hose and run the engine at fast idle for 10 seconds.
  • Turn OFF the engine and let the vehicle stand for 10 minutes.
  • Apply the brake pedal with approximately 89 Nm (66 lb-ft) of force. The brake pedal feel should be the same as normal power-assisted brake operation for at least one brake pedal application. If the brake pedal feel is normal, the power brake booster is OK. If the brake pedal feels hard, continue with the test.
  • Remove the vacuum booster hose from the power brake booster. Apply 57.3 kPa (17 in-Hg) of vacuum to the vacuum booster hose. If the vacuum does not leak off after 10 minutes, install a new power brake booster. If the vacuum does leak off, install a new check valve and/or new vacuum booster hoses.

Check Valve


  • Remove the vacuum booster hose from the power brake booster.
  • Apply 57.3 kPa (17 in-Hg) of vacuum to the vacuum booster hose. If the vacuum does not leak off after 10 minutes, the check valve is OK. Otherwise, install a new check valve.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!
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