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Author Topic: How-to optimize drag results  (Read 350407 times)

Offline steve142857

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How-to optimize drag results
« on: October 06, 2013, 05:26:53 AM »
Hey there,
Since I have been many many times at the drag with both my 2010 and now a few times with my 2013, I figured I could share a bit of info based on my experience.
I have been asked a few times in private messages for tricks to improve drag results, so here are the factors that I can think of that will influence at a different level your time and speed when running the quarter mile.

1) Low D/A

2) Tailwind

3) Good 60':
a) warm tires (doing zig zag in the parking for 30 seconds without heating the engine, just doing donuts right and left at 10mph and then go directly to the lane (easier to do when there isn't too many people).
b) track well prepped (-don't go through the water box- look that there is glue on track- try to go in the lane where many cars just passed, that lane will be warmer)
c) Although I never played with this because my Hankooks are thebest out there to grip, you may want to play a bit with tire pressure.
d) Launch between 1800 and 2200... Sometimes launching too hard will cause tires to slip in the first gear change 1 to 2.
e) Spool turbos before green light... Once stage, ideally start brake/boosting keeping engine running at around 2000rpm for at least 3-5 seconds.

4) Lower the weight:
a) quarter tank of gas max (you may want to bring a separate fuel tank to leave on the side to fuel the car up after you finish) = -35lbs compared to half full.
b) remove spare and tools = -40 lbs
c) empty car from everything (glove compartment, floor mats, head rests, change, even wear light clothes if possible, lower windshield washer) = -5lbs

5) Keep engine cool: ideally with a fan plugged on the car battery. That cools the engine 10-20 times faster than even ice on the intake. Try to avoid big lineups before running... I often go on the side and try to jump in the line against a loner instead of making 30 minute lineups... You can also remove engine cover and the little round cylinder thing in ?mousse? that covers metal parts under the engine cover. Leave them outside of the car to reduce weight while at it...

6) Shallow stage

7) Keep a straight line from beginning to the end... Imagine someone that would move his car 2 times one foot left-right during the run... That means one foot right, one foot left to bring it back x 2 = 4 feet = 4/1320 = 0.3%. 0.3% of 13 seconds are 0.04 seconds just there!

8) TC off, D or Sport (for 2013 doesn't change a thing in my experience)... Close all things in the car (air, radio, ...)

The best scenario for best results is to go earlier in the day on a sunny day when temps are cool. You drive there, pay, and go directly at the lane and run 2-3 runs... The tires are normally warmed up from the drive to get there, but the engine is not warmed yet because it was ventilated while driving...

Please feel free to add other tricks or to comment on any of those... I just wrote everything that came through my mind. Sometimes, 0.01 second can make a difference for someone to achieve his goal, so the combo of all of the above is the way I did it to obtain the best of my machine... My car is not necessarely faster than others, but I just optimize my scenario...

Every 10F or 5C is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed
Every 100 lbs or 50kg is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed
Every 10mph tailwind is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed
Every 1000 ft of altitude is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed too.

So, imagine when I go to the drag strip with less than a quarter tank of fuel, emptied the car, go when it is 40F with a 10mph tailwind at 203ft. of altitude and run a 12.1 seconds at 115mph.
Another guy would go in Colorado at 5000 ft altitude when it is 80F with no tailwind and with a half tank of fuel =
0.5 sec for altitude, 0.4 sec for temps 0.1 sec for wind and .03 for fuel, so that is about one full second difference just because not running the good day at the good place and not emptying the car properly. If someone wants to achieve best results, that implies to drive a bit to find a good drag strip, low altitude and well prepped. Watch weather conditions to go on a cool day when tailwind...
There you go guys!
Good luck!
Steve
2010 blue wrapped SHO 12.09 at 117.9mph - SOLD
2013 SHO PP 12.08 at 113.83mph...
Alky control, LMS tuned, custom exhaust, LMS catted downpipes, H&R springs, Tstat170, 3bar map, Airaid

Offline shoman04

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Re: How-to optimize drag results
« Reply #1 on: October 06, 2013, 07:54:40 AM »
Thank Steve!!!! You have always been my MENTOR of SPEED. Your advise help me go from 13.0 flat tune only to 12.66 sec the fastest tune only car in the club !!! THANK YOU VERY MUCH. Now that I have METH, down-pipes, and 2.5 x-pipe/cat back I will be follow your lead to the lower 12's. It already let to me beating Crash head-up. We are talking about .005 of a sec. for a win!! Crash is a great guy too and that why it was such a big deal for me to WIN AGAINST HIM. Make me DANCE IN THE STREET!!!LOL :mike1:

« Last Edit: October 12, 2013, 11:00:25 AM by shoman04 »
2011 KONA BLU SHO,Livernois Tune,AIRAID CAI,DYNOMAX MUFFLEs,Newest member of the 12sec CLUB 12.669sec @ 107mph    2011 Ford Taurus SHO: 12.669 @ 105.050 MPH NEW FOR 2013LMS down-pipe,Magnaflow X-pipe,and Custom 2.5"exhaust pipe!! Meth and stage 5 next to be install!!!!!! METH DYNO TUNE today 405AWHP!!!WOW LMS track day 12.4209sec   :mike1:

Offline EcoBrick Bob

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Re: How-to optimize drag results
« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2013, 01:02:32 PM »
Great writeup!  But... at my age, I have already forgotten most of it!!!  LOL   I try most of these things. but have never seen any cooperative people I can cut in line with. At times I have actually ran vehicle thru water bath, only because there is so much crap on my tires from staging lanes.  If I can get enough burnout spin, it actually helped my times and eliminated blow-outs due to excessive front wheel spin.  Know this is contrary to logic, but it has worked for me.
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Offline Glassman710

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Re: How-to optimize drag results
« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2014, 09:36:57 AM »
Hey there,
Since I have been many many times at the drag with both my 2010 and now a few times with my 2013, I figured I could share a bit of info based on my experience.
I have been asked a few times in private messages for tricks to improve drag results, so here are the factors that I can think of that will influence at a different level your time and speed when running the quarter mile.

1) Low D/A

2) Tailwind

3) Good 60':
a) warm tires (doing zig zag in the parking for 30 seconds without heating the engine, just doing donuts right and left at 10mph and then go directly to the lane (easier to do when there isn't too many people).
b) track well prepped (-don't go through the water box- look that there is glue on track- try to go in the lane where many cars just passed, that lane will be warmer)
c) Although I never played with this because my Hankooks are thebest out there to grip, you may want to play a bit with tire pressure.
d) Launch between 1800 and 2200... Sometimes launching too hard will cause tires to slip in the first gear change 1 to 2.
e) Spool turbos before green light... Once stage, ideally start brake/boosting keeping engine running at around 2000rpm for at least 3-5 seconds.

4) Lower the weight:
a) quarter tank of gas max (you may want to bring a separate fuel tank to leave on the side to fuel the car up after you finish) = -35lbs compared to half full.
b) remove spare and tools = -40 lbs
c) empty car from everything (glove compartment, floor mats, head rests, change, even wear light clothes if possible, lower windshield washer) = -5lbs

5) Keep engine cool: ideally with a fan plugged on the car battery. That cools the engine 10-20 times faster than even ice on the intake. Try to avoid big lineups before running... I often go on the side and try to jump in the line against a loner instead of making 30 minute lineups... You can also remove engine cover and the little round cylinder thing in «mousse» that covers metal parts under the engine cover. Leave them outside of the car to reduce weight while at it...

6) Shallow stage

7) Keep a straight line from beginning to the end... Imagine someone that would move his car 2 times one foot left-right during the run... That means one foot right, one foot left to bring it back x 2 = 4 feet = 4/1320 = 0.3%. 0.3% of 13 seconds are 0.04 seconds just there!

8) TC off, D or Sport (for 2013 doesn't change a thing in my experience)... Close all things in the car (air, radio, ...)

The best scenario for best results is to go earlier in the day on a sunny day when temps are cool. You drive there, pay, and go directly at the lane and run 2-3 runs... The tires are normally warmed up from the drive to get there, but the engine is not warmed yet because it was ventilated while driving...

Please feel free to add other tricks or to comment on any of those... I just wrote everything that came through my mind. Sometimes, 0.01 second can make a difference for someone to achieve his goal, so the combo of all of the above is the way I did it to obtain the best of my machine... My car is not necessarely faster than others, but I just optimize my scenario...

Every 10F or 5C is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed
Every 100 lbs or 50kg is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed
Every 10mph tailwind is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed
Every 1000 ft of altitude is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed too.

So, imagine when I go to the drag strip with less than a quarter tank of fuel, emptied the car, go when it is 40F with a 10mph tailwind at 203ft. of altitude and run a 12.1 seconds at 115mph.
Another guy would go in Colorado at 5000 ft altitude when it is 80F with no tailwind and with a half tank of fuel =
0.5 sec for altitude, 0.4 sec for temps 0.1 sec for wind and .03 for fuel, so that is about one full second difference just because not running the good day at the good place and not emptying the car properly. If someone wants to achieve best results, that implies to drive a bit to find a good drag strip, low altitude and well prepped. Watch weather conditions to go on a cool day when tailwind...
There you go guys!
Good luck!
Steve

thanks! great tips! When you say TC off do u mean Just TC off not sport mode or advance track off, just clarifying what works best :)
TC one click (TC off), hold brake Double click TC (Sport mode) or hold brake and hold TC button 5 secs (advance track off) which one works best :)
2013 SHO with Performance Pack, SunTek CXP 18% Tints, Corsa Cat Back Exhaust, K&N Drop in filter, Unleashed 93 octane 2 bar tune. 12.75 @ 107.71 @ palm beach raceway, Florida DYNO JET 346.27 WHP 385.95 WTQ

Offline SHOnUup

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Re: How-to optimize drag results
« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2014, 01:17:33 PM »
Appreciate the write up.
2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

Offline ZSHO

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Re: How-to optimize drag results
« Reply #5 on: September 23, 2014, 12:56:26 PM »
Hey there,
Since I have been many many times at the drag with both my 2010 and now a few times with my 2013, I figured I could share a bit of info based on my experience.
I have been asked a few times in private messages for tricks to improve drag results, so here are the factors that I can think of that will influence at a different level your time and speed when running the quarter mile.

1) Low D/A

2) Tailwind

3) Good 60':
a) warm tires (doing zig zag in the parking for 30 seconds without heating the engine, just doing donuts right and left at 10mph and then go directly to the lane (easier to do when there isn't too many people).
b) track well prepped (-don't go through the water box- look that there is glue on track- try to go in the lane where many cars just passed, that lane will be warmer)
c) Although I never played with this because my Hankooks are thebest out there to grip, you may want to play a bit with tire pressure.
d) Launch between 1800 and 2200... Sometimes launching too hard will cause tires to slip in the first gear change 1 to 2.
e) Spool turbos before green light... Once stage, ideally start brake/boosting keeping engine running at around 2000rpm for at least 3-5 seconds.

4) Lower the weight:
a) quarter tank of gas max (you may want to bring a separate fuel tank to leave on the side to fuel the car up after you finish) = -35lbs compared to half full.
b) remove spare and tools = -40 lbs
c) empty car from everything (glove compartment, floor mats, head rests, change, even wear light clothes if possible, lower windshield washer) = -5lbs

5) Keep engine cool: ideally with a fan plugged on the car battery. That cools the engine 10-20 times faster than even ice on the intake. Try to avoid big lineups before running... I often go on the side and try to jump in the line against a loner instead of making 30 minute lineups... You can also remove engine cover and the little round cylinder thing in «mousse» that covers metal parts under the engine cover. Leave them outside of the car to reduce weight while at it...

6) Shallow stage

7) Keep a straight line from beginning to the end... Imagine someone that would move his car 2 times one foot left-right during the run... That means one foot right, one foot left to bring it back x 2 = 4 feet = 4/1320 = 0.3%. 0.3% of 13 seconds are 0.04 seconds just there!

8) TC off, D or Sport (for 2013 doesn't change a thing in my experience)... Close all things in the car (air, radio, ...)

The best scenario for best results is to go earlier in the day on a sunny day when temps are cool. You drive there, pay, and go directly at the lane and run 2-3 runs... The tires are normally warmed up from the drive to get there, but the engine is not warmed yet because it was ventilated while driving...

Please feel free to add other tricks or to comment on any of those... I just wrote everything that came through my mind. Sometimes, 0.01 second can make a difference for someone to achieve his goal, so the combo of all of the above is the way I did it to obtain the best of my machine... My car is not necessarely faster than others, but I just optimize my scenario...

Every 10F or 5C is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed
Every 100 lbs or 50kg is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed
Every 10mph tailwind is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed
Every 1000 ft of altitude is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed too.

So, imagine when I go to the drag strip with less than a quarter tank of fuel, emptied the car, go when it is 40F with a 10mph tailwind at 203ft. of altitude and run a 12.1 seconds at 115mph.
Another guy would go in Colorado at 5000 ft altitude when it is 80F with no tailwind and with a half tank of fuel =
0.5 sec for altitude, 0.4 sec for temps 0.1 sec for wind and .03 for fuel, so that is about one full second difference just because not running the good day at the good place and not emptying the car properly. If someone wants to achieve best results, that implies to drive a bit to find a good drag strip, low altitude and well prepped. Watch weather conditions to go on a cool day when tailwind...
There you go guys!
Good luck!
Steve

thanks! great tips! When you say TC off do u mean Just TC off not sport mode or advance track off, just clarifying what works best :)
TC one click (TC off), hold brake Double click TC (Sport mode) or hold brake and hold TC button 5 secs (advance track off) which one works best :)
Advance track off,hold button for 5 seconds with foot on the brake pedal and in drive,great you have the PP.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2014, 12:59:45 PM by ZSHO »

2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-8psi BOV|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|Airaid-Dry-flow-CAI|RX Front clean side oil Separator|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|Extreme Roof Spoiler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq|

Offline FoMoCoSHO

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Re: How-to optimize drag results
« Reply #6 on: September 23, 2014, 07:51:21 PM »
Hey there,
Since I have been many many times at the drag with both my 2010 and now a few times with my 2013, I figured I could share a bit of info based on my experience.
I have been asked a few times in private messages for tricks to improve drag results, so here are the factors that I can think of that will influence at a different level your time and speed when running the quarter mile.

1) Low D/A

2) Tailwind

3) Good 60':
a) warm tires (doing zig zag in the parking for 30 seconds without heating the engine, just doing donuts right and left at 10mph and then go directly to the lane (easier to do when there isn't too many people).
b) track well prepped (-don't go through the water box- look that there is glue on track- try to go in the lane where many cars just passed, that lane will be warmer)
c) Although I never played with this because my Hankooks are thebest out there to grip, you may want to play a bit with tire pressure.
d) Launch between 1800 and 2200... Sometimes launching too hard will cause tires to slip in the first gear change 1 to 2.
e) Spool turbos before green light... Once stage, ideally start brake/boosting keeping engine running at around 2000rpm for at least 3-5 seconds.

4) Lower the weight:
a) quarter tank of gas max (you may want to bring a separate fuel tank to leave on the side to fuel the car up after you finish) = -35lbs compared to half full.
b) remove spare and tools = -40 lbs
c) empty car from everything (glove compartment, floor mats, head rests, change, even wear light clothes if possible, lower windshield washer) = -5lbs

5) Keep engine cool: ideally with a fan plugged on the car battery. That cools the engine 10-20 times faster than even ice on the intake. Try to avoid big lineups before running... I often go on the side and try to jump in the line against a loner instead of making 30 minute lineups... You can also remove engine cover and the little round cylinder thing in «mousse» that covers metal parts under the engine cover. Leave them outside of the car to reduce weight while at it...

6) Shallow stage

7) Keep a straight line from beginning to the end... Imagine someone that would move his car 2 times one foot left-right during the run... That means one foot right, one foot left to bring it back x 2 = 4 feet = 4/1320 = 0.3%. 0.3% of 13 seconds are 0.04 seconds just there!

8) TC off, D or Sport (for 2013 doesn't change a thing in my experience)... Close all things in the car (air, radio, ...)

The best scenario for best results is to go earlier in the day on a sunny day when temps are cool. You drive there, pay, and go directly at the lane and run 2-3 runs... The tires are normally warmed up from the drive to get there, but the engine is not warmed yet because it was ventilated while driving...

Please feel free to add other tricks or to comment on any of those... I just wrote everything that came through my mind. Sometimes, 0.01 second can make a difference for someone to achieve his goal, so the combo of all of the above is the way I did it to obtain the best of my machine... My car is not necessarely faster than others, but I just optimize my scenario...

Every 10F or 5C is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed
Every 100 lbs or 50kg is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed
Every 10mph tailwind is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed
Every 1000 ft of altitude is about 0.10 second and 1mph trap speed too.

So, imagine when I go to the drag strip with less than a quarter tank of fuel, emptied the car, go when it is 40F with a 10mph tailwind at 203ft. of altitude and run a 12.1 seconds at 115mph.
Another guy would go in Colorado at 5000 ft altitude when it is 80F with no tailwind and with a half tank of fuel =
0.5 sec for altitude, 0.4 sec for temps 0.1 sec for wind and .03 for fuel, so that is about one full second difference just because not running the good day at the good place and not emptying the car properly. If someone wants to achieve best results, that implies to drive a bit to find a good drag strip, low altitude and well prepped. Watch weather conditions to go on a cool day when tailwind...
There you go guys!
Good luck!
Steve

thanks! great tips! When you say TC off do u mean Just TC off not sport mode or advance track off, just clarifying what works best :)
TC one click (TC off), hold brake Double click TC (Sport mode) or hold brake and hold TC button 5 secs (advance track off) which one works best :)
Advance track off,hold button for 5 seconds with foot on the brake pedal and in drive,great you have the PP.
Or there's always my car which likes to shutdown Advancetrak every time I cross 100MPH.
2015 Bronze Fire SHO PP
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SCT indicated 789 NM flywheel TQ
12.56@109.74
12.35 corrected

Offline 91hybrid

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How-to optimize drag results
« Reply #7 on: September 23, 2014, 08:23:50 PM »
You're not alone. My seems to do it when I go over 110. 🙈


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2014 SHO -PP, Unleashed Tuned, 3bar, Devils Own 100% meth, PPE catted down pipes, 3rd cat delete, Magnaflow 2.5" exhaust, 170 deg, NGK 7's plugs, hot pipes - White Platinum 401a
418 whp - 513 wlb/ft
non meth 13.11@103.6 (knock limited)
Meth pass 11.991@114.28

Offline steve142857

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Re: How-to optimize drag results
« Reply #8 on: September 24, 2014, 05:39:17 AM »
I hold it 5 sec. Mine too shutdown the advance track over 110 or so. But if I leave it shutdown and run another run right after, I get the same results, so I guess it should make a b ig difference afterall. But TC off will get cut you 0.1 sec.
2010 blue wrapped SHO 12.09 at 117.9mph - SOLD
2013 SHO PP 12.08 at 113.83mph...
Alky control, LMS tuned, custom exhaust, LMS catted downpipes, H&R springs, Tstat170, 3bar map, Airaid

Offline ZSHO

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Re: How-to optimize drag results
« Reply #9 on: September 24, 2014, 06:17:04 AM »
I hold it 5 sec. Mine too shutdown the advance track over 110 or so. But if I leave it shutdown and run another run right after, I get the same results, so I guess it should make a b ig difference afterall. But TC off will get cut you 0.1 sec.
Steve did your 2010 SHO shutdown advancetrack.if not could be due to the new updated ECU&PCM disabling it on the 13+SHO'S.
« Last Edit: September 24, 2014, 06:38:33 AM by ZSHO »

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Offline pejohnson

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Re: How-to optimize drag results
« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2014, 10:44:15 AM »
All great tips!  I followed all them to a T and got great results.  I am hoping to make it to the last track day this season this weekend.  My goal is to improve slightly on my times.  Rumors are winter blinds are here.  How should I combat that?  I was planning on arriving at the track with a little less than a quarter of a tank.  Should I add a half gallon of 100 octane fuel?  Or E85?  I certainly don't want to do anything to damage the engine which probably goes without saying.  Thoughts?
13 Platinum White, PP, 402A, Moonroof, Multi-contour seats, and Navigation.  MODS - LMS 93 octane 3bar tune, 160 LMS thermostat, Airaid CAI, 15% tint, interior LED upgrade, LED puddle lights, Nurburgring 20" Gloss Black Powercoated Rims, H&R springs, Corsa catback exhaust, LMS catted downpipes

Best time 1/4 mile 12.588 sec @ 109.44 mph

Offline SHOnUup

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Re: How-to optimize drag results
« Reply #11 on: October 24, 2014, 10:51:19 AM »
All great tips!  I followed all them to a T and got great results.  I am hoping to make it to the last track day this season this weekend.  My goal is to improve slightly on my times.  Rumors are winter blinds are here.  How should I combat that?  I was planning on arriving at the track with a little less than a quarter of a tank.  Should I add a half gallon of 100 octane fuel?  Or E85?  I certainly don't want to do anything to damage the engine which probably goes without saying.  Thoughts?
I've had great success with adding 2 gallons of e/85 to a full tank of 93. Before hand I was getting sluggish performance with high knock readings. Only time will tell if this very slight increase in ethonal will hurt at all. Ended up running what I think is the best 3bar tune time to date. It actually has decreased my knock readings from prior to winter blend also.

Corn FTW!!!

Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

Offline pejohnson

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Re: How-to optimize drag results
« Reply #12 on: October 24, 2014, 03:48:40 PM »
Interesting!!  Hmmm I probably will hold off until more confirm the pros and cons.

Anyone using higher than 93 octane on their tuned vehicles. Trying to decide what to do in preparation for this Sunday.


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13 Platinum White, PP, 402A, Moonroof, Multi-contour seats, and Navigation.  MODS - LMS 93 octane 3bar tune, 160 LMS thermostat, Airaid CAI, 15% tint, interior LED upgrade, LED puddle lights, Nurburgring 20" Gloss Black Powercoated Rims, H&R springs, Corsa catback exhaust, LMS catted downpipes

Best time 1/4 mile 12.588 sec @ 109.44 mph

Offline SHOnUup

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Re: How-to optimize drag results
« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2014, 03:52:06 PM »
FoMoCoSHO is the resident expert here on this.  Maybe shoot him a PM

Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

Offline SHOmanMike84

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Re: How-to optimize drag results
« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2014, 05:34:04 PM »
I too am running a 25% mix of E85 and 91 octane with great results, a big thanks to FoMoCoSho for the inspiration.

Almost zero knock and the car pulls great, give it a shot. Plenty of calculators online to determine your percentage. I personally use an E85 app I found on Google Play Store, super convenient especially while at the pump.


2013 SHO, PP, Unleashed E25 tune, 3bar, aFe panel filter, 170* thermo, PPE catted DP's, 3rd cat delete, Eibach springs, Black powder coated flower wheels.

 

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