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Random Pull/Torque Steer after new moog lower control arms.

Started by mystery101, July 25, 2021, 01:07:35 AM

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mystery101

Noticed some vibration and road noise / rattle on bumps. Found the factory LCA bushing torn and replaced the whole arms with Moogs.
Since then the whole front end seems to act strange around corners that varies with throttle input; You can go around a corner and the whole front end feels like it is stepping sideways either direction and will suddenly change under a shift causing me to have to "overcorrect" the wheel in the opposite way.
Car has been to two separate dealers for an alignment and an independent alignment shop after the fact in an attempt to identify or mitigate the issue.
All 4 wheels seem tight and pass the side to side, up down test off the ground..


The only thing I can think of is maybe I didn't torque the balljoint nut down enough; but it seemed like every time I added leverage to the end of the wrench it would turn more and I felt like was getting close to being overtightened. Both front LCA bolts are tight aswell.


Fitment issues with moogs possible?
2016 SHO- Ruby Red - Performance Pack (Mods: 170*F Thermostat, 3Bar Map, NGK .28 colder plugs, JLT PCV catch can, OBX downpipes, GEARHEAD e30 tune!)

mystery101

2016 SHO- Ruby Red - Performance Pack (Mods: 170*F Thermostat, 3Bar Map, NGK .28 colder plugs, JLT PCV catch can, OBX downpipes, GEARHEAD e30 tune!)

Macgyver


mystery101

Today I went to a different dealer for an alignment. They spent 3 hours trying to get it into spec and failed.
They claim the alignment keeps changing after they get it off the rack and test drive it.
The diag is a $2500 estimate for steering gear as according to the tech its rattling and the rack has a rotational/up and down play
(Which I've been throwing parts at this car to fix)


Not sure which route to go. Been trying to search for any success of programming a new rack via forscan..
2016 SHO- Ruby Red - Performance Pack (Mods: 170*F Thermostat, 3Bar Map, NGK .28 colder plugs, JLT PCV catch can, OBX downpipes, GEARHEAD e30 tune!)

SHOdded

have an independent service shop verify your work with the LCAs.  have never heard of an issue with Moogs other than they don't last nearly as long as Ford/MC LCAs.  probably better off with Detroit Axle for parts.  Moog does make quality sway bar links (greasable).
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

mystery101

Moogs were the only option for me as the OEM's were backordered to hell and back. I didn't want to take the OEM originals to a shop to get pressed.
I guess the only good thing is the moogs were cheap on Autozone through a commercial account and have a lifetime warranty.
The car was just dropped off at Alignment Shop Inc in Ormond Beach to be remeasured by hand, Took it to two local honest mechanics that said nothing is loose.

2016 SHO- Ruby Red - Performance Pack (Mods: 170*F Thermostat, 3Bar Map, NGK .28 colder plugs, JLT PCV catch can, OBX downpipes, GEARHEAD e30 tune!)

mystery101

Just came back from alignment shop. Guy said rack seems fine to him and got the wheel straight. Said toe was out still from yeomans.
But then told me he drove it and no matter what it would continue to sidestep/pull on heavy throttle. He then suggested it might be the RDU after he took it to a cooperative mechanic on the same block to see if he missed anything loose. They said they noticed a clunk that corresponds with rotation to the AWD. Although I don't have any issues with my AWD, PTU had been replaced at 75K even with thorough maintenance. RDU fluid has been replaced once at 40K. Noticed occasional puking from the RDU vent in cooler weather with abuse soon after. Vehicle has a vibration that hasn't ever really gone away at 85MPH, Even after 5 different sets of tires and all rims checked for roundness or straightened by a shop. Brakes are brand new all around and didn't change anything with vibration/pull either.

Edit: I believe the clunk is more related to the Gearhead Tune and its shift strategy and pressures. I also wonder maybe trying a Longitudinal sensor relearn or Steering angle relearn would probably fix this.
2016 SHO- Ruby Red - Performance Pack (Mods: 170*F Thermostat, 3Bar Map, NGK .28 colder plugs, JLT PCV catch can, OBX downpipes, GEARHEAD e30 tune!)

glock-coma

I thought the torque steer was a product of the uneven length of the cv axles.


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2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

mystery101

Not sure. There are mechanics that recognize this as not normal due to it being awd with epas with pull correction.
2016 SHO- Ruby Red - Performance Pack (Mods: 170*F Thermostat, 3Bar Map, NGK .28 colder plugs, JLT PCV catch can, OBX downpipes, GEARHEAD e30 tune!)

mystery101

After chasing this issue for far too long and yielding no result. I decided to purchase factory control arms off rockauto.
Unfortunately they are terrible at keeping inventory and didn't provide me the passenger side lower. After I pulled off the moog lower on the driver side the issue became clear.
Moog uses subpar bushings in its control arms. The factory one uses metal endplates and the bushing itself is much larger.
After installing the driver side lower control arm the problem has gone away considerably and you can tell that the passenger side is not that good as the driver side feels solid as a rock going down the road.

2016 SHO- Ruby Red - Performance Pack (Mods: 170*F Thermostat, 3Bar Map, NGK .28 colder plugs, JLT PCV catch can, OBX downpipes, GEARHEAD e30 tune!)

Macgyver


mystery101

I wouldn't say I necessarily skimped. Oems were out of stock and backordered. Moogs used to be a good brand
2016 SHO- Ruby Red - Performance Pack (Mods: 170*F Thermostat, 3Bar Map, NGK .28 colder plugs, JLT PCV catch can, OBX downpipes, GEARHEAD e30 tune!)

Macgyver

True.

Wonder if its worth upgrading the bushings all around with a harder compound. Try to minimize TS as much as possible.

mystery101

2016 SHO- Ruby Red - Performance Pack (Mods: 170*F Thermostat, 3Bar Map, NGK .28 colder plugs, JLT PCV catch can, OBX downpipes, GEARHEAD e30 tune!)

xartic1

2014 Explorer Sport - Livernois 91 tune, 3 Bar MAP, Bilstein B6's, Dicunzolo Transmission Mounts, Mishimoto J-Line FMIC, AEM Drop In Filter, Steeda Rear Sway Bar, PPE Engineering Catless Downpipes, Reische 170 T-stat
2011 Mustang GT Brembo - Bama 91 tune, Steeda Intake,  LTH, 3" full exhaust with O/R X-Pipe no resonator, every possible suspension component replaced, weighs 3505 with 1/4 gas