February 08, 2023, 11:56:19 AM
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Author Topic:  Would like to hear from track guys & suspension tuners Re modified alignments  (Read 2299 times)

Offline 10ECOMKS

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I have been looking for some information on non-factory alignment specs that people are running with this AWD platform, but I haven’t come up with much. It seems to be people are running factory spec, or adjusted for stance.
Any owners running alignment settings other than factory spec for aggressive street or track?.. and if so what are you running? What suspension modifications are you running with them and also what tire/wheel size combinations.
What are your opinions on the driving characteristics with the non-factory settings vs factory? 

Offline Macgyver

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Well if you are road tracking. You usually are adjusting Camber for cornering purposes and that will take away from straight line acceleration from a dead stop per say.

If you are Drag tracking. Then you want to keep the contact patch flat. So OEM specs I think are best for Dragging.


My 2 cents.

Offline 10ECOMKS

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Thanks for the reply Macgyver. I understand the fundamentals of setting up alignments,  I’m really hoping to get some input on what settings for camber and toe front and rear will work well with this platform for aggressive street, part time track (non Drag) with specific wheel/tire size and suspension combinations.
 
I’m running H&R springs w/ fresh Motorcraft stuts and shocks, with rear SPC camber bolts. Staggered 10.5 x 20 rear 9.5 x 20 front, PS4S 275/35 rear 255/40 shaved 4-5/32 front. I want to set up my camber initially before putting it on the alignment rack to finalize camber and toe. I’ll deal with toe on the rack, but right now I’ve dialed my rear camber to -1deg on each side (was about -2.5 after lowering (the SPC camber bolts put back +.75deg, as advertised, over what I could get moving the stock bolt). The front is “as lowered” at -1.5deg each side. I do have the option to spin the top of the struts still to put back +.5deg. My toe is definitely off, so I don’t have a feel for the current settings. So I’m interested in some ideas before putting it on the rack.
I am considering leaving the camber as is, getting the toe set to 0 front and rear on the rack so I have a starting point, and then picking up some toe plates and tweaking from there with the plates and my camber gauge.

Offline Macgyver

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I had a friend that Moto-crossed his Juke a lot. Yeah I know a Juke but he was beating cars that he had no business beating. He ran BC Racing Coil overs that were pretty stiff around -1.5 on the front and -2.0 the rear. -2.0 so it would help the car rotate through the turns. However he was FWD. He would have gone more but it was his Daily and did not want to ruin his non race Pilot Pros. He said more than -2.0 would start wearing the inside of the tires more.

I dont think with the size and weight of the SHO you are gonna see a magical, OMG, setup.

But it is a great question as I dont remember reading anyone or anything on this beyond doing the basics. Springs/Coil-overs, Engine Mounts, Sticky tires, Air pressure. Send it.





Edit

After thinking about it. I think someone corner balanced their SHO. Now to find it........
« Last Edit: January 29, 2021, 02:48:44 PM by Macgyver »

Offline 10ECOMKS

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That’s awesome..I love that he runs his Juke. Yeah, the AWD platforms seem a little more mysterious because of how each distributes power between front and back differently. Switching to a set of BC Coil overs, choosing a more calculated wheel and tire setup, and corner balancing would probably be a big step forward from what I have now, I’m guilty of choosing my wheel and tire setup for looks. I’m going to do what I can with what I’m running for now since I just did those mods. I do have the engine/trans mounts as well. I can’t say I haven’t been eyeballing a set of BCs already tho. Thanks for posting that video  :thumb:

 


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