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ecoboost_xsport Consolidated Build/Maintenance Thread

Started by Ecoboost_xsport, October 21, 2020, 10:18:05 AM

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Ecoboost_xsport

#45
HVAC Directional Door Actuator Replacement

So this was one of those things to fail that you just KNOW is going to be a pain in the ass.  Guess what? It is!

The actuator was stuck on defrost and I could never get it out of that position.  Did some research and found that they fail often.  Ford uses these in various places as well as in many of their platforms.  It's the newest version of the actuator and you can see in this video why it may not be the best improvement.  Yes, it's smaller...but made cheaper:

https://youtu.be/sQ2afrTj1xY

There are a number of actuators in the HVAC system in this vehicle.  One is located on the passenger side and it controls the blend of hot/cold temperature.  So if you're having that issue, it's likely you'll want to check out these videos for some help:

https://youtu.be/yYacz5dZgyc

https://youtu.be/Dl1O34pVE3Y

https://youtu.be/UqL1C4Lw8aM

The one that failed in my case was one of the worst ones to go as far as labor.  If you are having issues with the HVAC sticking between DEFROST, DASH or FLOOR setting, this is the one you need to replace.  This is something that, if taken to Ford will cost you $$$$.  Apparently, Ford needs to remove the ENTIRE dash to get to it...so yeah, lotta dough.

Anyway, did some research and found this:

https://youtu.be/LIDLq4jLZXE

I won't re-hash what I found in this video except give you a parts list and some tips I found to make it easier, but I will say this video saved me A TON of time and work.  Thank you so much to the creator!

This is one of those jobs where having the right tools will make or break your sanity.  As with all things mechanical, there is more than one way to skin the cat, but man, if you have the tools below, you will thank me later.

Anyway, some of the parts and tools needed for this job:


  • Actuator: Ford PN AA5Z-19E616-A
  • DeWalt Right Angle Attachment, Flex Shaft, 12-Inch (DWARAFS)
  • Magnetic Nut Driver Socket Set
  • 1/4" Cordless Impact Wrench
  • Long-reach upholstery removal tool
As for removing that red tab on the connector, it DOES NOT need to come all the way out as mentioned in the video, just pull it back a bit and it'll click out into place.  Then remove it as you would any connector by depressing the lock tab:


In the video, he removes the top 2 screws with that 90deg flex shaft and the bottom screw with a 3" extension on a ratchet.  I found that you can reach that bottom screw with the flex shaft very easy:


You want to use those nut driver sockets because they are slightly shorter than a socket adapter and socket.  There isn't much room and you need all the space you can.  It's great to have the magnetic ones as the screws just stick to it and you don't need tape or gum like the video posted suggested:




This pic is difficult to see what I'm talking about, but if you have everything removed as required, from underneath, look up toward the actuator and it's a straight shot with the flex 90.  In this pic it's about center in the photo:


Now, with everything removed, it'll still be kind of stuck in there. There is hardly NO room to get that thing out as there is a large wire harness right up against it.  That's where the long-reach upholstery removal tool came in handy:


I wedged it between and basically twisted the tool 90 degrees and it popped right out and fell straight to the floorboard:


In this pic, you see the end of the tool and the white slot the actuator inserts into.  The actuator had already popped off in this photo, but you can get an idea of where to insert it:


Here's the bad actuator and the arrows are not matching up:


Here's the new one with the arrows lined up:


The video creator had a great idea taking the old one apart and using the plastic gear to get the slot to line up before inserting the new actuator. Just break the tabs off the outer shell it will come right out:


I found an easier solution than marking and finding where it needs to be clocked.  Just insert that gear back into the slot and turn it all the way clockwise (if you were to be looking at the gear from the exposed end and not the end inserted into the slot)gently until it stops.  It can't go further than the position it needs to be at.  I did that, inserted the actuator and the bolt holes lined up perfectly.

It will require finger acrobatics to get that thing up in there, so don't think this will be super easy.  You will likely scream at the wiring harness that's in the way a few times.  Stick with it, you'll get it.

As for putting the screws back in, this is where the magnetic sockets really shone.  For tightening though, I didn't use an impact wrench, I used a 1/4" hex socket handle and tightened it by hand:




Finally, getting that connector back into the socket.  That was, for some reason, the most difficult part of this job (it was ALL difficult, btw).  You can only fit one hand up there, so it all has to be done single handed.  AND you can't see what you're doing.  It's all done blind, LOL.

Anyway, got it connected, put everything back together and tested it.  Worked perfectly!

Whew!  The job took about 1.5hours start to finish, but it was a stressful 1.5 hours, LOL.  Had I not watched that video, nor had the right tools, it could easily have been a 6 hour job trying to figure this out.

Some extra photos for you.

The opened actuator if you're interested:


The new actuator, I can't believe this $25 part costs so much to get changed.  I think it's upward of $1000 because Ford will remove the dash:

Ecoboost_xsport

#46
Built Long Block

So this has been a long time in the making and I finally received it the other day.  Although I have brought it up in passing and sometimes eluded to it, this project I've generally held close to the chest...for a number of reasons.  Some of you may already know as I've shared this on other platforms so it isn't the biggest surprise, but it's for sure the biggest step for this journey I on right now.

Although I'm totally capable of building an engine myself, I decided to go with an outside builder for a number of reasons.  The main one is time...it's just a premium for me and a project like this would've taken me quite a while. Likely even longer than the 6 months it took to get it to this point.

I started talking with Ryan over at RMB Motorworks about a year ago.  Trust me, I've read all the stuff on the internet about some people's experiences, both good and bad. Most of what I got was pretty positive and I always take negative press with a grain of salt.  Got to know him pretty well before I decided to pull the trigger on this and I'm glad I went with his him on this.  Anyway, here's some photo's of the build process as it progressed:

Heads off a 2016 SHO that had virtually no miles on it.  As you can see, they were in great shape before they were even touched with any head work:



They were sent off to Headgames Motorworks to get some love.  Namely their Pocket Port-R.  What is that you ask?  Well, here's a quick blurb on it:

[media=youtube]jI_hwmJqTYg[/media]

Should be able to get a bit more timing out of this thing now:






Stock cams.  Didn't have anything done to them.  A custom grind was outta my budget, lol:


Brand new block, before it got sent out for the closed deck process:


Back from CSS with  the deck closed off:




Just some nice hone work:


JE pistons before getting some Calico Coating love:


Skirt coating:


Thermal top coating:




These conrods are sexy AF! A set of Boostline conrods to push those pistons around:






Some ring gap measuring:


The centerpiece of all this...a Ford F-150 Raptor crankshaft:


Main bearings:


And some more lovely cross-hatch machining:


The King main bearings installed:


Checking end play:


And more clearance checking:


Completed short block:


Oil Pan, pickup tube and oil pump housing installed.  Can't forget the WPC treated Boundary oil pump gear installed inside that housing:




And some relentless engine assembly porn:




















And finally, arrival day!:






So, next step will be an engine stand sometime this week.  Then it will sit for a bit until I tackle the intercooler dilemma on the current engine.  I want to work all the bugs out on the engine I have sitting in the car now, so I'll be mostly dialed in when the new motor goes in!

Stay tuned...

Build Sheet (not all inclusive):
New OEM Short Block
  - CSS Closed Deck
  - Boostline Connecting Rods
  - ARP2000 Connecting Rod Bolts
  - JE FS3 10:1 CR Pistons (CT3 sideskirt coating, Calico ceramic top coating)
  - King XP Main Bearings
  - King XPValves Connecting Rod Bearings
  - OEM Ford Raptor Gen2 Crankshaft
New OEM Cylinder Heads
  - Headgames Motorsports Pocket Port-R
  - New OEM Valves (back-cut)
  - ARP2000 Head Studs
  - MLS Head Gaskets w/Integrated Fire Ring

And all the latest Ford iterations of accessory parts (chains, sprockets, guides, etc).

19 December, 2020:
Small update.  Things have been slow going, but I finally got the engine onto an engine stand...you might find it interesting, LOL.

Well here's the fancy engine stand I ended up getting.  Sunex 8300GB, 1/2 ton stand with oil drip pan.  I wanted one with an actual gear-reduced crank handle because, well...I'm lazy, LOL:




https://youtu.be/MPq-bLKLJAo

And even more entertaining is my engine hoist:


My Kubota BX25...how you like THEM apples? LOL





Got a hold of some metric Grade 12.9 (yes, it's a thing) hardware.  I made some stainless sleeves to take up the slack in the larger diameter engine stand brackets.  Makes for a super tight fit and no "slop".




Everything has anti seize on it! Sleeves and all...


Getting it loosely mounted:




I like to get the center line of the crankshaft lined up with the center rotation point of the engine stand.

And mounted!






Rotated...just because I can...


And finally, all tucked away for the time being:


And for those wondering what that shiny orange flexplate is all about...I'll let @bpd1511 elaborate.  All the credit goes to him for getting that brought to market!

bpd1151

Sexy porn indeed. Hubba bubba



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


802SHO

Badass!!!  Love it man!!  No seriously the crocs are cool too!  Explorer is going to rip!!!  Not like it doesn't now!! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
IG @802SHO 2010 SHO non PP, Tuned by AJP Turbo, 109 Octane + VP C85 for E30, Ported GH Gen 3 upgraded turbos, Ported 13+ Exhaust Manifolds, Custom FM IC TreadStone TR10C, EPP Hot Pipes, EPP Dual CAI, XDI35 HPFP, Deatschwerks 300C LPFP, Alky Control Methonal Injection, Alky dual nozzle upgrade, Zex Nitrous dual dry shots, Dicunzolo Gen2 torque mounts, MSD Coils, SP542 .026, 160 T, 3bar, Phenolic Spacer, Braille Lightweight Battery, Kirky Lightweight Racing Driver Seat, Catless Downpipes, custom stainless 2.5" double xpipe w/muffler deletes 4" quad tips, UPR Dual Valve Catch Can, 13+ PP Trans Cooler, Econoaid throttle Body Booster, Bravado Tribute 20x9.5 + 32 offset Wheels, Nitto NT555R Front Tires, Continental Extreme Contact DW Rear Tires and all are 275/35/20, H&R Springs all around w/rear cut 1/2", 1" hubcentric wheel spacers m14 1.5 stud/lug conversion, R1 Concepts Geomet slotted/drilled rotors with Heavy Duty Semi Metallic pads, Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge.
Currently World's Fastest Ecoboost SHO
11.063 @ 123.17 MPH!  NED 10/10/20

Ecoboost_xsport

#49
Weight Reduction: Roof Rack Delete

I wanted to get rid of the roof rack for awhile now as I never use it and feel like it might be another few pounds that can be shaved.  I was thinking it would look a bit more clean and give it an even lower visual appearance by bringing the overall height down a bit.

The majority of Explorers come with the roof rack rails as a standard option with "slick top" variants normally being the PIU versions.  I used a lot of the information contained within this post:

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/roof-rack-rail-removal.383226/

...and it was an awesome resource.  Thank you to those that posted information on ways to make this happen.  I won't rehash much of what was covered in it except for some things I may have done a bit differently.

Here's the before photo (it was dirty, don't judge me! LOL):


First step is popping off the end covers to access the bolts that hold down the rails.

Front/Rear:


And once those are off, it's pretty much self-explanatory from that point.  Here's the entire roof rack system removed from the vehicle and weighed it on the scale:


I saved a whopping additional ~19lbs!

Starting with the rear portion, here's the bolt holes with all the dirt and grime cleaned up and ready for some new hardware to block the water:


I made a personal decision that I didn't really care to add the length of channel stripping as I wasn't really that concerned about it.  I did want it to look good, but wasn't too worried about the top portion, so I decided just to block of the holes with straight hardware.  What I did decide to do was go with some pretty good quality (translation: expensive) 316 stainless steel hardware and some weather-resistant rubber sealing washers, along with RTV for good measure.  Here's a parts list that I ordered from McMaster-Carr:



Yes, those low profile bolts are pricey, but they will work great.  The OEM ones will work fine as well, this is just a bit extra.  Here's the hardware in action:


I doubled-up on the rubber washers to ensure it sealed against the contours of the bolt hole area.  And also used some of this RTV for the extra measure:


And the RTV applied:


And the final installation for the rear area:


I will concede that it looks much better with the weather stripping that is used to install in that channel.  I just opted not for simplicity's sake.  It's not all that noticeable and I still used the front short rail sections anyway.

Now, onto the front area.  Here's the parts needed:


I got everything from Sewell Ford as pricing (to include shipping) was the best I could find:

  • DB5Z-7851728-AA Molding, Roof Side Trim $47.77 Qty: 1
  • DB5Z-7851729-AA Molding, Roof Side Trim $47.51 Qty: 1
  • FB5Z-7850002-A Retainer $6.80 Qty: 1
  • FB5Z-7850002-B Retainer $6.80 Qty: 1
I made some changes with the sealing foam that came on all the pieces.  I decided I didn't like it so I removed it all as I was going to use RTV and those rubber sealing washers for a more positive seal.  I've seen that foam stuff go bad over time, so felt my option would last longer.  Only time will tell...



Foam removed.  Side note: For those that don't know, WD-40 is the most perfect chemical to get rid of adhesive "boogers" and residue...it practically wipes off.  It's great when removing decals and weather-stripping as well.


Also removed the foam from the retaining clip:


Difference between a standard socket cap screw and the low profile ones I went with:


Here's why:




Bolts, washers and RTV on the cover:


Installed:


After look:


Comparison shot:


And there ya go.  What you guys think?

Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~280.0 lbs

Nova

Looks good John, now when are you going to install that 2nd engine in the back of your explorer???

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Ecoboost_xsport

Quote from: Nova on November 08, 2020, 07:57:42 AM
Looks good John, now when are you going to install that 2nd engine in the back of your explorer???

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
LOL...yeah, it's gonna be a minute.  I gotta get the rear end tubbed first, so I know where to place that engine in the back...LOL
Real talk though, it's likely going to be a minute before I get to it, I am doing a few things to the current setup so I can work out the bugs before the new one goes in.

Ecoboost_xsport

#52
Fuel Pump Voltage Booster (aka Boost-A-Pump)

I've always felt the weak link in the fueling system of our platform is the in-tank (or low pressure fuel pump - LPFP).  This isn't normally an issue with mild to semi-aggressive builds as the addition of a higher output HPFP and injectors along with an ethanol blend and maybe even some methanol injection have been able to keep up with the majority of the demands of the platform.

However, the reality of it is that no one has really taken this platform to extremes quite yet.  Those extremes include running straight e85 and/or wheel horsepower levels exceeding the 650-700 mark.  It's those areas were serious fuel demands come into play and simply installing larger injectors and HPFP just won't do the trick.  In order to address this high fuel demand issue, we need to look at the very first step of the fuel system, the in-tank pump.  My breakdown of it is that, with those other components, you've basically got yourself a firehose nozzle attached to standard garden hose bib.  At the extreme ends of the spectrum, you'll just never be able to feed that nozzle what it needs to truly shine.

I've recently began running straight e85, and already the cracks are starting to show in the armor.  According to my tuner, we'd like to see a low pressure side reading of at least 80psi.  Well, at WOT, we were seeing dips down into the 60psi range, and the HPFP would follow with a dip in output and/or increase in duty cycle.

Now, I have been preaching that the low-pressure pump is the weak link and to that end, I have explored many, many different options (surge tanks, larger in-tank pumps, etc.).  None quite off the table, but most of them are very complex problems to solve and, frankly, exceed my limits of advanced fuel system knowledge. So, to that end, after speaking with Uwe over at XDI who was attempting to install a larger Bosch 400 into a stock fuel bucket I had sent him and found that it just wasn't quite possible reminded me of an old trick that may be able to be revived and used in our platform.

Enter the fuel pump voltage booster, known to many as a Boost-A-Pump, or BAP (although that title is usually in reference to the Kenne Bell version of the device).  The theory here is, the more voltage to the pump, the more work it can do.  Pretty simple, right?  Well, it's a bit more involved than that...so here goes.

The OEM fuel system in our platform is a returnless, pulse-width modulated, direct injection system.  What that basically means is, there is a fuel pump driver module (FPDM) that is sending PWM signals to maintain a system pressure that the HPFP can use to push the rail pressures to above the 2000psi mark.  It isn't like the old school pumps that just ramp up and down in speed to maintain that pressure, but rather, turn off and on at an incredibly fast rate.  This means, you can't simply interrupt the voltage signal going directly to the pump, you need to interrupt the signal pre-FPDM.

So, on the advice of Carl over at Vapor Worx, I decided to go with the JMS version instead of the Kenne Bell or MSD.  The JMS version has a reputation for having the cleanest output signal and has some pretty cool ramp in/out features that I found I'd like to use as well as being able utilize a 0-5vdc trigger if required.

It all began with the arrival of the pump:


It comes with everything you need to get this thing up and running.  That includes a Hobbs switch for using boost as a reference if you are so inclined...

However, I really wanted to utilize the 0-5vdc trigger feature of this device as it allows you to fine tune a ramp in/out rate if you desire (and I do).  So where do I get a 0-5vdc reference? Hmmmmm...well, you really DON'T want to tap into the MAP sensor signal as the act of tapping it can sometimes introduce noise into the system and have weird effects on the vehicle.  You also don't want to tap into the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) as that can open and close at various positions not equating to actual fuel demand.  I guess I could install a second, dedicated MAP sensor, but that would be over-engineering the solution.  Why not just go with a solution that JMS already had in-place.  Use of the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.  Because I like plug-n-play, along with the ability to "EDIT/UNDO", I opted for an off-the-shelf solution from JMS.  They had a Ford wire harness for purchase:


But if you want to keep it on a budget and not purchase the adapter harness, simply splice into wire #2...


...of the connector C2040:


The accelerator pedal connection before installation:


After installation:


Since I was going to use the pedal position as my 0-5vdc reference, I had to see what the actual range of output was.  Just because it is a 0-5vdc output doesn't mean it's at that exact range.  Below is a photo of the voltage at rest (left) and the voltage value when the pedal is floored, simulating WOT (right):


This test was done key-on, engine-off.

Next was accessing the FPDM.  Even though it is underneath the c-pillar cover, because of the way Ford decided to assemble this car, you have to remove almost the entire rear interior, lol....ugh.....

Here is everything off but placed loosely back into position, other than the c-pillar cover:




It was at this point that I did some data collection on what the FPDM is seeing.  I have two Fluke meters so I decided to also see how that voltage compares to what the pedal sensor is putting out.

Here's a video compilation:
https://youtu.be/sowgmHvzBUg

I have plans to wire this in such a way that I can remove the BAP and put it back to stock relatively easily.  This requires the use of my extensive Deutsch connector set:


Here is the JMS "wiring" guide and which wire is needed to be intercepted:


And here is the OEM wiring schematic along with connector C3239 pinout, the wire of concern here is wire #1:




Tape peeled back and power wire exposed (Purple/Green Stripe...Incredible Hulk colors, how appropriate for the POWAH wire, LOL):


Using a specific Deutsch crimper...


...you can make these male/female ferrule crimps:


One side done.  Just one wire from the FPDM to this connector:


Other side done.  As you can see it has 2 wires, one going to an existing ground.  When it's connected in OEM configuration, it goes nowhere, but when it is connected in BAP configuration, it will be the ground for the BAP wire.


And here it is in full OEM configuration.  I can easily connect/disconnect as needed:


Now onto the BAP connector itself.  The wires are just cut wild when you get it from JMS, but I took a page out of the MSD book and used a DTP Deutsch connector end here as well:






Now to make the harness that connects the BAP to the FPDM using more DTP Deutsch connectors:




Going to leave one end wild for the time being until I identify where the BAP will be physically mounted so I can figure how long the other end needs to be.

For the time being, onto the mounting location and brackets.  I decided I would secure the device to the roll bar that is in the cargo area.  Thought it would look pretty trick and also be close to the FPDM.

For the base brackets, I used some 1" by 0.25" aluminum bar stock I had laying around.  I cut two pieces 4.125" long and started measuring them up for some mounting holes:






I'll round the edges and make it look nice and likely powdercoat these as well.

For the roll bar attachment, I got 2 of the 1.50" Longacre mounts:


There was one small issue.  The roll bar wasn't an exact 1.50", it was more like 1.55".  Not much, but enough for it to not fit properly.  I was going to have to do a little bit of grinding on it...so I conveniently had a spacer laying around that was 1.50" with a shoulder of 1.60".  It worked out pretty nicely to give me an edge to go off of:






I'll likely powdercoat these along with the above brackets. In addition to the brackets, I used some of these rubber isolators to give it some vibration dampening:


Here's the device mocked up:


Now I can start making the connecting wire harness.  It's running behind the wheel well panel cover and up to the c-pillar:


After marking where I need to trim and where the terminal ends need to go, here's the final piece to the puzzle:


So, JMS calls for replacement of the FPDM fuse and upgrade it to a 30A fuse.  Well, it just so happens, the fuse for our platform's FPDM is already 30A (the only green fuse in the photo).  It's found in the Battery Junction Box under the hood, position F65:


Once that is done, now it's time to crank it up, do some testing setup and test this puppy out!  This is a hot mess as I'm simply doing setup/testing to make sure everything works:


So, what settings am I using, you ask?  Well, According to Deatschwerks, the pump is good for spurts of 18.0vdc.  The highest I saw this at WOT was about 14.8vdc.  I want to ease into it for now, so I'm not going to go over 17.0vdc.

So, I got it setup for maximum voltage boost of 17.0vdc. Using the pedal position sensor, I want to ramp it in using the largest ramp the unit allows for, a 1.2vdc sensor ramp.  I have it set to begin boosting at a sensor reading of ~1.40vdc (~20% "throttle"), which means it is at full 17.0vdc at ~2.60vdc (~55% "throttle").

During testing at idle, it sees standard vehicle voltage, but as soon as the pedal is depressed, once it gets to the 1.4vdc value, you can see the FPDM voltage increasing.  Now to take it on the road and see how it responds...

...road testing turned out interesting and I'm actually very pleased at the improved pressure readings.  I did a log both before and after.  Here are the results, all else was equal including the tune.  This was a 3rd gear run from 2k RPM all the way to 6k RPM.

Before BAP:
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual


Before BAP:
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual


Before BAP:
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual


With BAP (no tune revision):
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual


With BAP (no tune revision):
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual


With BAP (no tune revision):
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual


As you can see, the low-side actual pressure was quite a bit better than the run without the BAP.  This tells me there is a bit more flow.  It could still use some help at the end, but it's markedly better.

So, now that testing is done, onto final assembly...

Here are those brackets rounded out:


And all the small pieces soda-blasted.  I'm leaving it raw aluminum but may end up powder coating them once I get enough other stuff to make a decent size run:


Secured the wire harness behind the interior panel:


Final position of the BAP:


And I decided to leave that small c-pillar panel off permanently for weight savings! No, seriously, I'm going to leave it off as I may need to access this area from time to time.  One issue is the seatbelt goes through it.  I've got the airbag seatbelts so it took a few steps trying to figure out how to get that big click connector through the hole without cutting the panel.


Separate the plastic halves.  They just pry apart:


You'll have to push down on the spring metal tab under this side of the pin and pull the pin out.  The tab holds the pin in place:


Here is the pin removed, and you can see how it holds everything together:


And here you see everything separated.  Just pull the belt through the hole of the c-pillar cover and re-assemble the seatbelt...too easy:



The trigger wire that goes to the pedal position sensor I am running down the other side of the vehicle.  Here's the other interior panel off:


Running it down the rear passenger door sill:


Front driver doorsill:


And up into the foot pedal area:


Cool little cheap tool I learned to use when I worked at a car stereo install shop...a very large HVAC zip-tie (36" long or so) with the head cut off.  This is an AWESOME tool for feeding wires through places...get em from your big box hardware store. It's definitely one of my "must-have" tools as it's been indispensable throughout the years.

Anyway, once the wires were run up into that area, everything was reconnected and tested.  All the interior panels where put back together and all is done!  Now to go get some datalogs!


So, some results after a tune revision (btw, I'm still dialing this tune in with Brad, so this isn't the final tune).

With BAP (with tune revision):
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual


With BAP (with tune revision):
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual


With BAP (with tune revision):
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual

Admin

Wow!!! That is quite the documentation and build for the fueling! This is awesome. Thank you for sharing!

The improvements are clearly visible in the data logging.

Is this running E85?

Ecoboost_xsport

Quote from: Admin on December 15, 2020, 12:54:49 PM
Wow!!! That is quite the documentation and build for the fueling! This is awesome. Thank you for sharing!

The improvements are clearly visible in the data logging.

Is this running E85?
Yes, full e85, but the tune is set for e75 due to quality of pump ethanol not always at 85%

Admin

What load are you sustaining during those logs? Curious how much air you are needing to fuel.

Ecoboost_xsport

Quote from: Admin on December 15, 2020, 01:26:45 PM
What load are you sustaining during those logs? Curious how much air you are needing to fuel.
Apologies, just getting to this.  So here's the logs from the same runs.

Gray = RPM
Purple = Load

Without BAP:


With BAP (no tune revision):


With BAP (with tune revision):


I don't like the last datalog I did as I was fighting wheel spin and you can see it with he way the RPM jumps a bit.  I can honestly tell it's got more power, I am having some traction problems now.  I really need better tires....

Ecoboost_xsport

Access The PCM And/Or Wiper Motor

In case anybody wants to access the PCM and/or the wiper motor.  It's actually pretty easy and accessible.

First thing to do is remove the wiper blades.  At the base of the blades are bolt covers.  They just snap onto 3 sides of the six-sided nut.  Just get a flat-tip screwdriver and pop them straight up:


Once those are off, you'll have to remove the nuts off the wiper arm studs.  Once those are removed...


They likely will be pressed on there pretty good.  Flip the wipers up to give you some ability to wiggle the base.  It's possible to remove them by hand, but easier if you use a tool to pull them off, usually comes in a nice puller set like this::


Here it is, ready to pull:


They pop off easily, usually with a loud "pop" sound, so just be ready for it.  Once those are off it's time to remove the upper cowl piece.  There are 6 plastic clips that need to be removed:


Just use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the center section of the clips.  Sometimes they just spin without coming up.  Just use your other hand to pinch the outer portion from underneath.  It's also clipped into slots on the bottom of the windshield.  Just pull the cowl directly up with some force and they pop out.

Here it is removed and showing the lower cowl:


To remove the lower cowl, you'll need to slide out to metal clips on either end of it, where it sits on the metal frame:


They are in there with some "bite".  I used this tool to pull them straight back towards you::


Then there are 2 white clips more toward the center of the cowl, same place where the cowl meets the frame:


These just need to be popped up.  It may tend to fall back into the hole, so you can remove them if you'd like by pulling it straight out.  Don't loose them, LOL.  Here is what it looks like when it's off the car:


Last thing to do before it will freely come out is, open the clips that hold the washer fluid line and pull the hose out.  A small flat-tip screwdriver will open the clips, no need to remove them from the cowl:


And now you have access to both the PCM and the wiper motor, whichever component you are working on.

WIPER MOTOR



Pretty easy,actually.  Just disconnect the connector for the motor:


Then remove these two bolts:


And here it is out of the car:




PCM



Also very easy,  just undo both the main connectors.  Do this carefully by lifting the hold-down/lock handle:


Then remove these two nuts:


And pull the assembly out.  Here it is free of the car:


And that's it!  Assembly is reverse.

Admin


Ecoboost_xsport

Quote from: Admin on December 30, 2020, 09:35:48 AM
why are you pulling the PCM?
Been procrastinating on finalizing my methanol kit install. Last few steps involve tapping into the PCM. Finally getting around to it, LOL.