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Author Topic:  ecoboost_xsport Consolidated Build/Maintenance Thread  (Read 1002 times)

Offline Ecoboost_xsport

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ecoboost_xsport Consolidated Build/Maintenance Thread
« Reply #45 on: October 28, 2020, 01:08:47 AM »
HVAC Directional Door Actuator Replacement

Ugh...so this was one of those annoying things to fail that you just KNOW is going to be a pain in the ass.  Guess what? It is!

Anyway, the actuator was stuck on defrost and I could never get it out of that position.  Did some internet research and found that they actually fail quite often.  Ford uses these in various places as well as in pretty much all their platforms.  It's the newest version of Ford's actuator and you can see in this video why it may not necessarily be the best improvement.  Yeah, it's smaller...but made cheaper (welcome to the new way of doing business):



There are a number of actuators in the HVAC system in this vehicle.  One is located on the passenger side and it controls the blend of hot/cold temperature.  So if you're having that issue, it's likely you'll want to check out these videos for some help:







Anyway, the one that failed in my case was probably one of the worst ones to go as far as labor needed to replace it.  If you are having issues with the HVAC sticking between DEFROST, DASH or FLOOR setting, this is the one you need to replace.  This is something that, if taken to Ford will cost you $$$$$$$$$.  Apparently, Ford needs to remove the ENTIRE dash to get to it...so yeah, lotta dough.

Anyway, did some online research and found this video:



I won't re-hash much of what I found in this video except give you a parts list and some tips I found to make it even easier, but I will say this video saved me A TON of time and work.  Thank you so much to the video creator!

This is one of those jobs where having the right tools will make or break your sanity.  As with all things mechanical, there is more than one way to skin the cat, but man, I tell you what, if you have the tools below, you will thank me later.

Anyway, some of the parts and tools needed for this job:

  • Actuator: Ford PN AA5Z-19E616-A
  • DeWalt Right Angle Attachment, Flex Shaft, 12-Inch (DWARAFS)
  • Magnetic Nut Driver Socket Set
  • 1/4" Cordless Impact Wrench
  • Long-reach upholstery removal tool

As for removing that red tab on the connector, it DOES NOT need to come all the way out as mentioned in the video, just pull it back a bit and it'll click out into place.  Then you just remove it as you would any connector by depressing the lock tab:


So, in the video, he removes the top 2 screws with that 90deg flex shaft and the bottom screw with a 3" extension on a ratchet.  I found that you can reach that bottom screw with the flex shaft very easy and it's so much easier than using a ratchet:


The reason you want to use those nut driver sockets is because they are slightly shorter than a socket adapter and socket.  There is not much room in there and you need all the space you can get.  It's great to have the magnetic ones as the screws just stick to it and you don't need tape or gum like the video posted suggested:




This pic is difficult to see what I'm talking about, but if you have everything removed as required, from underneath, look up toward where the actuator is and it's clear as day and a straight shot with the flex 90.  In this pic it's about dead-center in the photo:


Now, with everything removed, it'll still be kind of stuck in there. There is hardly NO room to get that thing out as there is a large wire harness right up against it.  That's where the long-reach upholstery removal tool came in handy:


I wedged it between and basically twisted the tool 90 degrees and it popped right out and fell straight to the floorboard:


In this pic, you see the end of the tool and the white slot the actuator inserts into.  The actuator had already popped off in this photo, but you can get an idea of where to insert it:


Here's the bad actuator and the arrows are not matching up:


Here's the new one with the arrows lined up:


The video creator had a great idea with taking the old one apart and using that plastic gear to get the slot to line up properly before inserting the new actuator. Just break the tabs off the outer shell since you will throw it away and it will come right out:


However, I found an easier solution than marking and finding where it needs to be clocked.  Just insert that plastic gear back into the slot and turn it all the way clockwise (if you were to be looking at the gear from the exposed end and not the end inserted into the slot)gently until it stops.  It cannot go any further than the position it needs to be at.  I did that, inserted the actuator and the bolt holes lined up perfectly.

It will require finger acrobatics to get that thing up in there, so don't think this will be super easy.  You will likely scream at the wiring harness that's in the way a few times.  Stick with it, you'll get it.

As for putting the screws back in, this is where the magnetic sockets really shone.  For tightening though, I didn't use an impact wrench, I used a 1/4" hex socket handle and tightened it by hand:




And finally...getting that connector back into the socket.  Wow, that was, for some reason, the most difficult part of this job (it was ALL difficult, btw).  You can only fit one hand up there, so it all has to be done single handed.  AND you can't see what you're doing.  It's all done blind, LOL.

Anyway, got it connected, put everything back together and tested it out.  It all worked perfectly!

Whew!  the job took about 1.5hours start to finish.  Had I not watched that video, nor had the right tools, it could easily have been a 5 or 6 hour job trying to figure all this out.

Some extra photos for you.

The opened actuator if you're interested:


The new actuator, I can't believe this $25 part costs so much to get changed out.  I think I heard it's upward of $1000 because Ford will remove the dash, smh:

Offline Ecoboost_xsport

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ecoboost_xsport Consolidated Build/Maintenance Thread
« Reply #46 on: October 30, 2020, 02:06:44 AM »
Built Long Block

So this has been a long time in the making and I finally received it the other day.  Although I have brought it up in passing and sometimes eluded to it, this project I've generally held close to the chest...for a number of reasons.  Some of you may already know as I've shared this on other platforms so it isn't the biggest surprise, but it's for sure the biggest step for this journey I on right now.

Although I'm totally capable of building an engine myself, I decided to go with an outside builder for a number of reasons.  The main one is time...it's just a premium for me and a project like this would've taken me quite a while. Likely even longer than the 6 months it took to get it to this point.

I started talking with Ryan over at RMB Motorworks about a year ago.  Trust me, I've read all the stuff on the internet about some people's experiences, both good and bad. Most of what I got was pretty positive and I always take negative press with a grain of salt.  Got to know him pretty well before I decided to pull the trigger on this and I'm glad I went with his him on this.  Anyway, here's some photo's of the build process as it progressed:

Heads off a 2016 SHO that had virtually no miles on it.  As you can see, they were in great shape before they were even touched with any head work:



They were sent off to Headgames Motorworks to get some love.  Namely their Pocket Port-R.  What is that you ask?  Well, here's a quick blurb on it:



Should be able to get a bit more timing out of this thing now:






Stock cams.  Didn't have anything done to them.  A custom grind was outta my budget, lol:


Brand new block, before it got sent out for the closed deck process:


Back from CSS with  the deck closed off:




Just some nice hone work:


JE pistons before getting some Calico Coating love:


Skirt coating:


Thermal top coating:




These conrods are sexy AF! A set of Boostline conrods to push those pistons around:






Some ring gap measuring:


The centerpiece of all this...a Ford F-150 Raptor crankshaft:


Main bearing seats:


And some more lovely cross-hatch machining:


The King main bearings installed:


Checking end play:


And more clearance checking:


Completed short block:


Oil Pan, pickup tube and oil pump housing installed.  Can't forget the WPC treated Boundary oil pump gear installed inside that housing:




Ans some relentless engine assembly porn:




















And finally, arrival day!:






So, next step will be an engine stand sometime this week.  Then it will sit for a bit until I tackle the intercooler dilemma on the current engine.  I want to work all the bugs out on the engine I have sitting in the car now, so I'll be mostly dialed in when the new motor goes in!

Stay tuned...
« Last Edit: November 08, 2020, 02:39:47 AM by Ecoboost_xsport »

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Re: ecoboost_xsport Consolidated Build/Maintenance Thread
« Reply #47 on: October 30, 2020, 02:22:29 AM »
Sexy porn indeed. Hubba bubba



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Offline 802SHO

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Re: ecoboost_xsport Consolidated Build/Maintenance Thread
« Reply #48 on: November 02, 2020, 08:51:31 PM »
Badass!!!  Love it man!!  No seriously the crocs are cool too!  Explorer is going to rip!!!  Not like it doesn’t now!! 


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IG @802SHO 2010 SHO non PP, Tuned by AJP Turbo, 109 Octane + VP C85 for E30, Ported GH Gen 3 upgraded turbos, Ported 13+ Exhaust Manifolds, Custom FM IC TreadStone TR10C, EPP Hot Pipes, EPP Dual CAI, XDI35 HPFP, Deatschwerks 300C LPFP, Alky Control Methonal Injection, Alky dual nozzle upgrade, Zex Nitrous dual dry shots, Dicunzolo Gen2 torque mounts, MSD Coils, SP542 .026, 160 T, 3bar, Phenolic Spacer, Braille Lightweight Battery, Kirky Lightweight Racing Driver Seat, Catless Downpipes, custom stainless 2.5" double xpipe w/muffler deletes 4" quad tips, UPR Dual Valve Catch Can, 13+ PP Trans Cooler, Econoaid throttle Body Booster, Bravado Tribute 20x9.5 + 32 offset Wheels, Nitto NT555R Front Tires, Continental Extreme Contact DW Rear Tires and all are 275/35/20, H&R Springs all around w/rear cut 1/2", 1" hubcentric wheel spacers m14 1.5 stud/lug conversion, R1 Concepts Geomet slotted/drilled rotors with Heavy Duty Semi Metallic pads, Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge.
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Offline Ecoboost_xsport

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ecoboost_xsport Consolidated Build/Maintenance Thread
« Reply #49 on: November 08, 2020, 01:54:11 AM »
Weight Reduction: Roof Rack Delete

I wanted to get rid of the roof rack for awhile now as I never use it and feel like it might be another few pounds that can be shaved.  I was thinking it would look a bit more clean and give it an even lower visual appearance by bringing the overall height down a bit.

The majority of Explorers come with the roof rack rails as a standard option with "slick top" variants normally being the PIU versions.  I used a lot of the information contained within this post:

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/roof-rack-rail-removal.383226/

...and it was an awesome resource.  Thank you to those that posted information on ways to make this happen.  I won't rehash much of what was covered in it except for some things I may have done a bit differently.

Here's the before photo (it was dirty, don't judge me! LOL):


First step is popping off the end covers to access the bolts that hold down the rails.

Front/Rear:


And once those are off, it's pretty much self-explanatory from that point.  Here's the entire roof rack system removed from the vehicle and weighed it on the scale:


I saved a whopping additional ~19lbs!

Starting with the rear portion, here's the bolt holes with all the dirt and grime cleaned up and ready for some new hardware to block the water:


I made a personal decision that I didn't really care to add the length of channel stripping as I wasn't really that concerned about it.  I did want it to look good, but wasn't too worried about the top portion, so I decided just to block of the holes with straight hardware. What I did decide to do was go with some pretty good quality (translation: expensive) 316 stainless steel hardware and some weather-resistant rubber sealing washers, along with RTV for good measure.  Here's a parts list that I ordered from McMaster-Carr:



Yes, those low profile bolts are pricey, but they will work great.  The OEM ones will work fine as well, this is just a bit extra.  Here's the hardware in action:


I doubled-up on the rubber washers to ensure it sealed against the contours of the bolt hole area.  And also used some of this RTV for the extra measure:


And the RTV applied:


And the final installation for the rear area:


I will concede that it looks much better with the weather stripping that is used to install in that channel.  I just opted not for simplicity's sake.  It's not all that noticeable and I still used the front short rail sections anyway.

Now, onto the front area.  Here's the parts needed:


I got everything from Sewell Ford as pricing (to include shipping) was the best I could find:
  • DB5Z-7851728-AA Molding, Roof Side Trim $47.77 Qty: 1
  • DB5Z-7851729-AA Molding, Roof Side Trim $47.51 Qty: 1
  • FB5Z-7850002-A Retainer $6.80 Qty: 1
  • FB5Z-7850002-B Retainer $6.80 Qty: 1
I made some changes with the sealing foam that came on all the pieces.  I decided I didn't like it so I removed it all as I was going to use RTV and those rubber sealing washers for a more positive seal.  I've seen that foam stuff go bad over time, so felt my option would last longer.  Only time will tell...



Foam removed.  Side note: For those that don't know, WD-40 is the most perfect chemical to get rid of adhesive "boogers" and residue...it practically wipes off.  It's great when removing decals and weather-stripping as well.


Also removed the foam from the retaining clip:


Difference between a standard socket cap screw and the low profile ones I went with:


Here's why:




Bolts, washers and RTV on the cover:


Installed:


After look:


Comparison shot:


And there ya go.  What you guys think?

Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~280.0 lbs
« Last Edit: November 29, 2020, 01:27:48 AM by Ecoboost_xsport »

Offline Nova

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Re: ecoboost_xsport Consolidated Build/Maintenance Thread
« Reply #50 on: November 08, 2020, 07:57:42 AM »
Looks good John, now when are you going to install that 2nd engine in the back of your explorer???

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Offline Ecoboost_xsport

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Re: ecoboost_xsport Consolidated Build/Maintenance Thread
« Reply #51 on: November 08, 2020, 10:13:30 AM »
Looks good John, now when are you going to install that 2nd engine in the back of your explorer???

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LOL...yeah, it's gonna be a minute.  I gotta get the rear end tubbed first, so I know where to place that engine in the back...LOL
Real talk though, it's likely going to be a minute before I get to it, I am doing a few things to the current setup so I can work out the bugs before the new one goes in.

 

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