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Getting Kr at wot. Need help identifying this.

Started by Hopelessdj, October 12, 2020, 10:36:29 AM

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Hopelessdj

Hello guys I'm new to this site and hope im posting in the correct spot. I find myself searching here sometime for reviews, opinions, and diagnosing issues other people may have had as well. I figured I'd join in and ask for some help more directly.

Right now I am tune with GH, 3bar, catless, intercooler, 160 thermostat, and gapped plugs. The car feels amazing and Matt's shifting is by far best I've experienced. When sending a log, he informed me that I'm having a good amount of kr. I notice it on the logs (from what my limited understanding gives me), and it appears to go around 3-7 degrees on knock sensor. Its mostly on wot. Car feels good and has no lights or drivability issues.

I'm also logging with ortiz to see how his tunes go as well. But with this false knock, he isn't going to send a revision until we figure it out. Its not as bad with his tune, but its happening in lower boost lower timing still wot. I've been told its either a rattle or gas is crap. I use 93, did 3 different stations with no resolve. My oar is -.96 which i thought mean gas is good, but I'm super new to tuning and just recently learned datalogging so idk entirely if that matters.

Basically now I'd like to get some ideas on what to check next. I am going to try a mix of e85 like Matt suggested to see if it helps, that'd be easy and nice if so. Other than that, I hear a slight rattle (similar to the sound of a wastegate rattle I would hear on my subi and bmw) coming from engine bay or underneath, very hard to pinpoint. Isnt the fuel pump like I originally thought cause that thing is noisey. It happens when I rev it to like 3k and let off. Couple seconds of rattle. Can't capture in video cause car is loud as it is. It will also stay constant around 2500rpm holding it there.
So its potentially something that could be creating the false knock?

I've checked the wires where they rub for some people, mine were perfect it appeared. Either way I covered them up with some fuel line and zip ties. Didnt change anything.

Are wastegate rattles something common with these cars, or is there a heatshield people have problems with? I dont really know how to chase this but must find it in order to proceed tuning with ortiz. Thanks guys -DJ

TopherSho

Save your self a ton of time, Get a can of C20, and run the tank to just about empty and put it in.  If it still knocks it is a frayed knock sensor (common) bad plugs (common after tuning) or bad carbon on the piston caps ..

putting in such a high octane will remove all fueling questions.   Both tuners are good but also double check the AFR.. make sure you are not lean and running hot in the cylinder.

Super common issue is the rear cylinder bank runs HOT .. and the fronts run COLDER.. so #1 cheap solution is to pull the plugs.  post pics..  Run some c20 gas or ethanol free 97 if you can buy/find it.

I would not mix in any e85.  E85 is a crap shoot with actual ethanol content being 70-85% at the pump and may skew the results versus a guatenteed 97.5 octane from the c20


another possibility is the O2's .. the damned Taurus's have a very VERY forgiving range of ''working'' and can skew your fueling and lead to lean conditions while reporting ''everything is great!!11!!"  ...  pull them,  its pain but it is free.. of there covered in crap (orange in particular) you might opt to replace them, reset the KAM and try again.


note .. do nit run octane boosters. this fueling system does not like them..
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

TopherSho

On the Rattle .. That sounds ominous.  Stretched timing chain.  Very common after about 90k with racing.... *BUT* under WOT the chain would be tight so i am not convinced it would trigger a knock sensor.  It is also a more external noise to the knock sensor. 


could be a water pump.
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

TopherSho

Upstream!   

Im still leery on using E## fuels .. I'd opt for 5 gallons of clear-97 to remove all doubts,  but go with the tuner, he will expect the readouts to fall in line with his expectations. 

Question, is the knock at a particular rev range? 
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

ridered74

If you have a rattling sound....fix that first. Maybe have someone else give it gas while you look for the noise? I'd check the flexpipes that connect your downpipes to the catback.
Gearhead E30 tune, Gearhead intercooler, LMS firestorm hpfp, catted downpipes, corsa catback, 160 degree thermostat, 3 bar map, upgraded AD trans mounts, MSD coils, Nitto 555R drag tires on front, AR924 wheels and BFG sport comp 2 summer tires on rear, and an EPP intake.

12.2479 @ 118.05 fastest trap
11.591 @ 114.89   fastest ET

TopherSho

Quote from: Hopelessdj on October 12, 2020, 08:09:26 PM
The knock seemed to show up slightly at low rpm with some boost. And pretty intense like positive 5-7 on wot. I did go and get some e98 and put it in. Almost immediately the knock went away. Goes negative when giving part throttle low rpm with some boost now. And the only knock I've seen is flooring it thru the gears itll sometimes give 1-1.5 knock reading only during the shift. Id have to conclude that at the least the gas here in southern Maine is crap.


hmmm I am surprised by that .. it is almost never gas.  wierd
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction