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New SHO owner with problems

Started by My15SHO, June 29, 2020, 12:58:05 PM

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My15SHO

When I was reading about this I saw a mention of "break in" oil. Is that necessary? Just use regular or synthetic?

TopherSho

The block if it has already been 'run in' will have had the oil changed and any break in lube will have been removed. I would not add any additives or break in oil once it is installed.  Just run synthectic 5-20 or 5-30 as required by the block... after say 2000 miles then maybe add in small amounts of ZDDP oil as your car beliefs require,  but for the initial 2000 miles dont mess with the break in process by adding other things besides really good oil.
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

My15SHO

Car is back, new engine installed along with three pages of various parts and fluids (distilled water?) Seems to drive good, idles nice and quiet, one BIG difference..... i can hear the blow off valve, loudly. I never heard a peep out of it before, could that have been an issue? Are these 3.5's suppposed to have a loud BOV?

76fomoco

the Bov's (2) are on the cross tube in the center top of the motor. they dump back into the intake it runs front to back. if the hoses didn't get put back to the intake it will be very loud. Post a picture of your motor with the black engine cover off.
2013 PP AJP E30 160 TS, sp542 plugs, 3 bar, PPE catted DP's, GH IC, GH turbos, XDI-35, EPP hot and intake
Best 3-29-21  11.85 with 3000 DA
DA trap best 117.96
E30 = 492 whp, 536 wtq
E30+meth 498 whp, 539 wtq

TopherSho

Quote from: My15SHO on July 23, 2020, 05:20:02 PM
Car is back, new engine installed along with three pages of various parts and fluids (distilled water?) Seems to drive good, idles nice and quiet, one BIG difference..... i can hear the blow off valve, loudly. I never heard a peep out of it before, could that have been an issue? Are these 3.5's suppposed to have a loud BOV?

This can also occur if the Boost control solenoid is open/busted :  https://www.getoemparts.com/oem-parts/ford-turbocharger-boost-solenoid-bl3z9k378a?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjer4BRCZARIsABK4QeVREO4_5tRf11N-hQqT2YLbVw05NkZlj6fuItpfER6-4payI9AN7vAaAk0yEALw_wcB

2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

My15SHO

#20
I got about 20 miles out of it before the "Charging system" set off the warning light, then the power steering went out intermittently, the a/c stayed at one speed, lane keep stopped working,  shifted funky, ended up with an orange wrench light and in limp mode literally as i turned into the dealership. Somehow i knew an entire engine getting reinstalled trouble free the first time around was wishful thinking. Oh well. Now its an F150 until they get it fixed. I was in an Ecosport for the past 6 weeks.

SM105K

"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |

My15SHO

#22
I suppose the logical path is the alternator / battery. I didnt own the car long enough to really notice the battery date, i would assume with the extent of the repairs done some form of battery diagnostic would have been done. I suppose one fuse or connector missed and the car runs the battery dead and it stops. The car drove great until that charging system light came on. It gradually went down hill as i drove back to the dealer which to me sounds like battery drain from a improper charging system, where the "improper" part is will be interesting. Although now that i think of it when starting i noticed it took a few more "turns" when pushing the button to start

SM105K

Quote from: My15SHO on July 25, 2020, 02:47:38 PM
I suppose the logical path is the alternator / battery. I didnt own the car long enough to really notice the battery date, i would assume with the extent of the repairs done some form of battery diagnostic would have been done. I suppose one fuse or connector missed and the car runs the battery dead and it stops. The car drove great until that charging system light came on. It gradually went down hill as i drove back to the dealer which to me sounds like battery drain from a improper charging system, where the "improper" part is will be interesting. Although now that i think of it when starting i noticed it took a few more "turns" when pushing the button to start

These car eat batteries.  One day it will be fine, next day battery is donzo.
"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |

ridered74

Quote from: SM105K on July 25, 2020, 05:24:56 PM
Quote from: My15SHO on July 25, 2020, 02:47:38 PM
I suppose the logical path is the alternator / battery. I didnt own the car long enough to really notice the battery date, i would assume with the extent of the repairs done some form of battery diagnostic would have been done. I suppose one fuse or connector missed and the car runs the battery dead and it stops. The car drove great until that charging system light came on. It gradually went down hill as i drove back to the dealer which to me sounds like battery drain from a improper charging system, where the "improper" part is will be interesting. Although now that i think of it when starting i noticed it took a few more "turns" when pushing the button to start



These car eat batteries.  One day it will be fine, next day battery is donzo.

My last one I noticed that the starter seemed a little slower than normal. Drove it for 45 minutes and was actually going to replace it before it died. Drove 30 minutes to stop at home to get tools to swap battery at the parts store, came out of the house and it would not turn over. Since batteries are cheap and being stranded is not, I will replace the battery from now on after it has seen two winters. 
Gearhead E30 tune, Gearhead intercooler, LMS firestorm hpfp, catted downpipes, corsa catback, 160 degree thermostat, 3 bar map, upgraded AD trans mounts, MSD coils, Nitto 555R drag tires on front, AR924 wheels and BFG sport comp 2 summer tires on rear, and an EPP intake.

12.2479 @ 118.05 fastest trap
11.591 @ 114.89   fastest ET

jims2015

Quote from: ridered74 on July 26, 2020, 01:19:49 AM
Quote from: SM105K on July 25, 2020, 05:24:56 PM
Quote from: My15SHO on July 25, 2020, 02:47:38 PM
I suppose the logical path is the alternator / battery. I didnt own the car long enough to really notice the battery date, i would assume with the extent of the repairs done some form of battery diagnostic would have been done. I suppose one fuse or connector missed and the car runs the battery dead and it stops. The car drove great until that charging system light came on. It gradually went down hill as i drove back to the dealer which to me sounds like battery drain from a improper charging system, where the "improper" part is will be interesting. Although now that i think of it when starting i noticed it took a few more "turns" when pushing the button to start




These car eat batteries.  One day it will be fine, next day battery is donzo.

My last one I noticed that the starter seemed a little slower than normal. Drove it for 45 minutes and was actually going to replace it before it died. Drove 30 minutes to stop at home to get tools to swap battery at the parts store, came out of the house and it would not turn over. Since batteries are cheap and being stranded is not, I will replace the battery from now on after it has seen two winters.


Same as mine. At exactly 3 years from taking it off the showroom, it turned over slower than usual. Then the next start didn't happen.
2015 PP, Thunderstorm DP & CAI. AlkyControl, Livernois dyno tune

2019 Corvette C7 Z51 A8 No mods

76fomoco

Quote from: jims2015 on July 26, 2020, 03:09:39 PM
Quote from: ridered74 on July 26, 2020, 01:19:49 AM
Quote from: SM105K on July 25, 2020, 05:24:56 PM
Quote from: My15SHO on July 25, 2020, 02:47:38 PM
I suppose the logical path is the alternator / battery. I didnt own the car long enough to really notice the battery date, i would assume with the extent of the repairs done some form of battery diagnostic would have been done. I suppose one fuse or connector missed and the car runs the battery dead and it stops. The car drove great until that charging system light came on. It gradually went down hill as i drove back to the dealer which to me sounds like battery drain from a improper charging system, where the "improper" part is will be interesting. Although now that i think of it when starting i noticed it took a few more "turns" when pushing the button to start




These car eat batteries.  One day it will be fine, next day battery is donzo.

My last one I noticed that the starter seemed a little slower than normal. Drove it for 45 minutes and was actually going to replace it before it died. Drove 30 minutes to stop at home to get tools to swap battery at the parts store, came out of the house and it would not turn over. Since batteries are cheap and being stranded is not, I will replace the battery from now on after it has seen two winters.


Same as mine. At exactly 3 years from taking it off the showroom, it turned over slower than usual. Then the next start didn't happen.

on 3rd battery and each is just like this^^^^^ one or two days with slow starting and it heads south fast!
2013 PP AJP E30 160 TS, sp542 plugs, 3 bar, PPE catted DP's, GH IC, GH turbos, XDI-35, EPP hot and intake
Best 3-29-21  11.85 with 3000 DA
DA trap best 117.96
E30 = 492 whp, 536 wtq
E30+meth 498 whp, 539 wtq

My15SHO

I get the battery going dead and preventing starting, but after its started and running, why would the battery cause the issues i had? Am i too old school in thinking it runs off the alternator once started? That power is run thru the battery but does a bad battery not allow that? I suppose after it sitting in a bay for 6 weeks and its all put back together the battery could take a dump quick.

SM105K

Quote from: My15SHO on July 27, 2020, 01:58:25 PM
I get the battery going dead and preventing starting, but after its started and running, why would the battery cause the issues i had? Am i too old school in thinking it runs off the alternator once started? That power is run thru the battery but does a bad battery not allow that? I suppose after it sitting in a bay for 6 weeks and its all put back together the battery could take a dump quick.

I chalk it up to one of the SHO mysteries.  My car completely freaked out when my battery started tanking.  The dash freaked out, my climate controls freaked out, my back up camera flipped upside down. 

I replaced the battery and all those issues went away.
"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |

802SHO

I had to replace my battery after the first winter I started using a battery tender.  It never actually died but it was about to.  I took it out for a drive and put it back on the tender only the tender light stayed red for a couple days after which isn't normal.  New battery stayed on a tender as soon as I would park it in the garage.  Now I upgraded to a lightweight battery and that stays on a tender as well.  Maybe buy a battery tender....keep it full at all times.


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IG @802SHO 2010 SHO non PP, Tuned by AJP Turbo, 109 Octane + VP C85 for E30, Ported GH Gen 3 upgraded turbos, Ported 13+ Exhaust Manifolds, Custom FM IC TreadStone TR10C, EPP Hot Pipes, EPP Dual CAI, XDI35 HPFP, Deatschwerks 300C LPFP, Alky Control Methonal Injection, Alky dual nozzle upgrade, Zex Nitrous dual dry shots, Dicunzolo Gen2 torque mounts, MSD Coils, SP542 .026, 160 T, 3bar, Phenolic Spacer, Braille Lightweight Battery, Kirky Lightweight Racing Driver Seat, Catless Downpipes, custom stainless 2.5" double xpipe w/muffler deletes 4" quad tips, UPR Dual Valve Catch Can, 13+ PP Trans Cooler, Econoaid throttle Body Booster, Bravado Tribute 20x9.5 + 32 offset Wheels, Nitto NT555R Front Tires, Continental Extreme Contact DW Rear Tires and all are 275/35/20, H&R Springs all around w/rear cut 1/2", 1" hubcentric wheel spacers m14 1.5 stud/lug conversion, R1 Concepts Geomet slotted/drilled rotors with Heavy Duty Semi Metallic pads, Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge.
Currently World's Fastest Ecoboost SHO
11.063 @ 123.17 MPH!  NED 10/10/20