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Help! Removal of Rear Turbo

Started by lotusnotes, June 23, 2020, 11:33:02 AM

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lotusnotes

Hi folks! In need of a some knowledge here.. Recently picked up a 2015 Explorer Sport Ecoboost that was a bit of a mechanic special. Symptom was heavy smoking... and discovered that both turbo's were totally shot. Front one lost its turbine rear unit has huge play in it. Already Replaced front easily, and now moving onto the rear or "right" turbo as it's referred to. Where I'm at is I have it totally disconnected, however so far I can't actually REMOVE it from the vehicle.

I can maneuver it in it's little cavity that it's in, coming out the bottom it hits the front passenger axle/subframe, and trying to come out the top its hitting coolant lines, gets hung up trying to shove it back by the PTU / rear driveshaft..  the upper portion of the exhaust manifold, what the hell is going on? It seems like it should come out the bottom and it almost fits but not quite. I tried jacking the engine/trans up a little with a jack and block of wood on oil pan, and it almost clears, it really seems like it should come out the bottom, but due to the size and shape of it seems nomatter way I twist or reverse it gets hung up somewhere.

I saw this post which appears to be Taurus SHO and they hint that the lower subframe needs to drop which makes sense. I'd rather get it out without this but is any good ideas of how best to lower the subframe? Do I have to mark it for alignment before this, pull any steering components first.. ?

https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=9106.0

At least on the Flex forums these guys say it can be wiggled out by turning the long pipe of the turbo inboard but still not really sure what that means. I tried this last night and still couldn't get it out. Anyone do this on an Explorer Sport 3.5 ??

https://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=17751

Would really rather not remove more components or the subframe if I don't have to.. To anyone who's done this on an Explorer, how the hell did you get this unit out of here?

Thanks!

SM105K

If you removed the passenger side drive axle, would that give you more room?
"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |

lotusnotes

It's hard to say... I see that that front axle goes in and then there is a boot and CV about half way in, and it is there secured to a secondary mounting bracket where then from that bracket it goes into the PTU. It's not clear to me how exactly those pieces disassemble, this secondary mounting point for the axle is really what is in the way. It his that, the subframe and then if you slide it over trying to squeeze it by it hits the PTU itself.

I just spoke to a Ford dealer Foreman here and they said that they have done one and found they had to lower the subframe to get at it.  I don't have the FSM for this vehicle, does anyone know  how to do that, do I have to pull steering, the sway bar, etc?    I was trying to avoid this as I'm thinking if I touch the subframe I then have to get the vehicle aligned so way hoping for a better way

802SHO

I removed my passenger axle and knuckle/rotor/wheel bearing assembly and was able to fairly easily maneuver the rear turbo out, also put it back up that way as well.  I did this with the front of the car on jack stands from my back.  I didn't drop the subframe.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

IG @802SHO 2010 SHO non PP, Tuned by AJP Turbo, 109 Octane + VP C85 for E30, Ported GH Gen 3 upgraded turbos, Ported 13+ Exhaust Manifolds, Custom FM IC TreadStone TR10C, EPP Hot Pipes, EPP Dual CAI, XDI35 HPFP, Deatschwerks 300C LPFP, Alky Control Methonal Injection, Alky dual nozzle upgrade, Zex Nitrous dual dry shots, Dicunzolo Gen2 torque mounts, MSD Coils, SP542 .026, 160 T, 3bar, Phenolic Spacer, Braille Lightweight Battery, Kirky Lightweight Racing Driver Seat, Catless Downpipes, custom stainless 2.5" double xpipe w/muffler deletes 4" quad tips, UPR Dual Valve Catch Can, 13+ PP Trans Cooler, Econoaid throttle Body Booster, Bravado Tribute 20x9.5 + 32 offset Wheels, Nitto NT555R Front Tires, Continental Extreme Contact DW Rear Tires and all are 275/35/20, H&R Springs all around w/rear cut 1/2", 1" hubcentric wheel spacers m14 1.5 stud/lug conversion, R1 Concepts Geomet slotted/drilled rotors with Heavy Duty Semi Metallic pads, Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge.
Currently World's Fastest Ecoboost SHO
11.063 @ 123.17 MPH!  NED 10/10/20

802SHO

Plenty of room. 

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

IG @802SHO 2010 SHO non PP, Tuned by AJP Turbo, 109 Octane + VP C85 for E30, Ported GH Gen 3 upgraded turbos, Ported 13+ Exhaust Manifolds, Custom FM IC TreadStone TR10C, EPP Hot Pipes, EPP Dual CAI, XDI35 HPFP, Deatschwerks 300C LPFP, Alky Control Methonal Injection, Alky dual nozzle upgrade, Zex Nitrous dual dry shots, Dicunzolo Gen2 torque mounts, MSD Coils, SP542 .026, 160 T, 3bar, Phenolic Spacer, Braille Lightweight Battery, Kirky Lightweight Racing Driver Seat, Catless Downpipes, custom stainless 2.5" double xpipe w/muffler deletes 4" quad tips, UPR Dual Valve Catch Can, 13+ PP Trans Cooler, Econoaid throttle Body Booster, Bravado Tribute 20x9.5 + 32 offset Wheels, Nitto NT555R Front Tires, Continental Extreme Contact DW Rear Tires and all are 275/35/20, H&R Springs all around w/rear cut 1/2", 1" hubcentric wheel spacers m14 1.5 stud/lug conversion, R1 Concepts Geomet slotted/drilled rotors with Heavy Duty Semi Metallic pads, Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge.
Currently World's Fastest Ecoboost SHO
11.063 @ 123.17 MPH!  NED 10/10/20

lotusnotes

Yes!!   This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!

I have a good impact so Axle bolt shouldn't be an issue... Anything out of the ordinary or I should look out for pulling those components?

SM105K

So you are going pull the passenger axle huh?  ;)
"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |

lotusnotes

LOL. Looking at it last night it didn't look like it would make a difference to me... but I've been convinced!

Will give it a try and report back. Thanks you guys

SM105K

Quote from: lotusnotes on June 23, 2020, 03:08:23 PM
LOL. Looking at it last night it didn't look like it would make a difference to me... but I've been convinced!

Will give it a try and report back. Thanks you guys

You are in good hands.  Please report back with your progress. It will help another person in the future.
"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |

lotusnotes

Thanks will do. Just to post the carnage of the front turbo, it lost the turbine on the hot side completely. Rear did not catastrophically fail like this but is still very very bad. When I investigated the top Wastegate control line to charge pipe had popped off, I assumed it was this that led to their demise. Have about 115k miles on the truck, filter screens inserts within the oil feed lines were very bad as well. Will replace with all new lines.

Also finding the oil return lines are VERY stuck in the block. Got the front one with PB blaster and twisting it and pulling. Any other tips for that? 

Should have some time to get under there tonight after work


EcoPowerParts

We were able to get mine out with nothing removed on my Flex back in 13 just by flipping the turbo around a few times like tetris :)
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lotusnotes

Well, lucky you! I've got the studs off mine, oil line removed, loosened the actuator, and I've played tetris with it for about 2 hours and there looks like no F'ing way to me!   At least on the Explorer. So I'll pull the axle and to me that's a much better option than the subframe...

76fomoco

like 802 said you can pull just the half shaft and no need to pull the stub shaft. Also you can leave the knuckle attached to the strut so you don't need an alignment but you will need a large pry bar to push down on the A arm. I just did the GH turbos and the back one took me 3x longer than the front.
2013 PP AJP E30 160 TS, sp542 plugs, 3 bar, PPE catted DP's, GH IC, GH turbos, XDI-35, EPP hot and intake
Best 3-29-21  11.85 with 3000 DA
DA trap best 117.96
E30 = 492 whp, 536 wtq
E30+meth 498 whp, 539 wtq

802SHO

Quote from: 76fomoco on June 23, 2020, 07:17:30 PM
like 802 said you can pull just the half shaft and no need to pull the stub shaft. Also you can leave the knuckle attached to the strut so you don't need an alignment but you will need a large pry bar to push down on the A arm. I just did the GH turbos and the back one took me 3x longer than the front.
Yeah I pulled the knuckles on both sides to replace my front struts.  Cool that there's isnt any tension on the H&R Springs so it didn't require any special tools to swap the springs out.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

IG @802SHO 2010 SHO non PP, Tuned by AJP Turbo, 109 Octane + VP C85 for E30, Ported GH Gen 3 upgraded turbos, Ported 13+ Exhaust Manifolds, Custom FM IC TreadStone TR10C, EPP Hot Pipes, EPP Dual CAI, XDI35 HPFP, Deatschwerks 300C LPFP, Alky Control Methonal Injection, Alky dual nozzle upgrade, Zex Nitrous dual dry shots, Dicunzolo Gen2 torque mounts, MSD Coils, SP542 .026, 160 T, 3bar, Phenolic Spacer, Braille Lightweight Battery, Kirky Lightweight Racing Driver Seat, Catless Downpipes, custom stainless 2.5" double xpipe w/muffler deletes 4" quad tips, UPR Dual Valve Catch Can, 13+ PP Trans Cooler, Econoaid throttle Body Booster, Bravado Tribute 20x9.5 + 32 offset Wheels, Nitto NT555R Front Tires, Continental Extreme Contact DW Rear Tires and all are 275/35/20, H&R Springs all around w/rear cut 1/2", 1" hubcentric wheel spacers m14 1.5 stud/lug conversion, R1 Concepts Geomet slotted/drilled rotors with Heavy Duty Semi Metallic pads, Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge.
Currently World's Fastest Ecoboost SHO
11.063 @ 123.17 MPH!  NED 10/10/20

lotusnotes

You guys are awesome. Turbo is out, Axle removal was not at all difficult and as pictured loads of space, just a slight rotate on the way out and it comes right out.

I called 2 different Ford dealers (before posting to this forum....)  and was told by the shop Foreman that you must lower the subframe, it's impossible without and the Ford FSM states it that way. And the second dealer told me that I had to remove the transfer case, which makes far less sense than the fist answer. So I think I know where to come to for advice now!

Being totally new to this platform it wasn't obvious to me that the axle which had that intermediate mount point would just all slide out in one piece which it totally does, and that made all the difference.

I ended up pulling the top 2 bolts on the strut to knuckle, but I marked them for rotation to the strut for alignment top and bottom prior to removal.   They don't 'look' like eccentric bolts to me at a glance, unless they are very slightly oval'd.  Do you think I will be OK for this on re-installation or is alignment very necessary? 

This turbo was also in very bad shape, oil line screen was pretty black, and the turbine has seen many better days..

Thanks everyone for your help!