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F150 Boost pressure feels limited

Started by Defhd10, March 01, 2020, 05:34:07 PM

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SHOdded

They have one for the regular Taurii that are flex fuel capable, but none otherwise.  Same for F150 I expect.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Defhd10

So any ideas on where to start or what to do now at this point?  Could this explain why my turbos are much louder but yet being limited to 7lbs when not under wot?  Or do i just still have a really bad batch of fuel in my tank?  I didnt see a pid for the high pressure fuel pump.  Could there be something wrong with it causing these problems?  I appreciate all the help guys.

TopherSho

the OAR value should not drop like that,  could it be bad gas?  maybe?  But I assume you have been fueling more than once recently so I think the likelihood is less for bad fuel.  To much Ethanol is a possibility,  but you would have to run north of E30 to see it,  and as soon as you fueled up again with 92 it would resolve.

With the comment from SHOdded that you may not have a true flexfuel sensor for that year were back to possible O2 sensors.. your cats seemed fine as compared to your fathers.  O2's they play a large role in determining fuel 'type'.  are you 100% certain the dealer really replaced the o2's  and did they do the fronts AND back ?

2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

SHOdded

Def verify the O2s are new and not fouled out
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Defhd10

Quote from: TopherSho on March 26, 2020, 11:05:42 PM
the OAR value should not drop like that,  could it be bad gas?  maybe?  But I assume you have been fueling more than once recently so I think the likelihood is less for bad fuel.  To much Ethanol is a possibility,  but you would have to run north of E30 to see it,  and as soon as you fueled up again with 92 it would resolve.

With the comment from SHOdded that you may not have a true flexfuel sensor for that year were back to possible O2 sensors.. your cats seemed fine as compared to your fathers.  O2's they play a large role in determining fuel 'type'.  are you 100% certain the dealer really replaced the o2's  and did they do the fronts AND back ?
Uh the dealer hasnt touched anything on the truck other then the reprogramming. Everything thats been swapped/changed was done by me so the o2s are the originals. Ill pull them this weekend to take a look and clean them. Plenty tanks of fuel have been ran through since the beginning of this so i dont foresee it being bad fuel either.

TopherSho

Quote from: Defhd10 on March 27, 2020, 09:34:36 AM
Quote from: TopherSho on March 26, 2020, 11:05:42 PM
the OAR value should not drop like that,  could it be bad gas?  maybe?  But I assume you have been fueling more than once recently so I think the likelihood is less for bad fuel.  To much Ethanol is a possibility,  but you would have to run north of E30 to see it,  and as soon as you fueled up again with 92 it would resolve.

With the comment from SHOdded that you may not have a true flexfuel sensor for that year were back to possible O2 sensors.. your cats seemed fine as compared to your fathers.  O2's they play a large role in determining fuel 'type'.  are you 100% certain the dealer really replaced the o2's  and did they do the fronts AND back ?
Uh the dealer hasnt touched anything on the truck other then the reprogramming. Everything thats been swapped/changed was done by me so the o2s are the originals. Ill pull them this weekend to take a look and clean them. Plenty tanks of fuel have been ran through since the beginning of this so i dont foresee it being bad fuel either.

Sorry on the parts touching ;) .. I remember now that you did the hardware.  In my head cleaning my help,  but if the tips are embedded with debris or the voltage coming out of them is out of range the ECU may still be doing the unusual adjustments.  Im still a bit perplexed with the throttle actual behavior but the OAR sinking like a rock is all we have to go on :/
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

Defhd10

Quote from: TopherSho on March 27, 2020, 12:31:36 PM
Quote from: Defhd10 on March 27, 2020, 09:34:36 AM
Quote from: TopherSho on March 26, 2020, 11:05:42 PM
the OAR value should not drop like that,  could it be bad gas?  maybe?  But I assume you have been fueling more than once recently so I think the likelihood is less for bad fuel.  To much Ethanol is a possibility,  but you would have to run north of E30 to see it,  and as soon as you fueled up again with 92 it would resolve.

With the comment from SHOdded that you may not have a true flexfuel sensor for that year were back to possible O2 sensors.. your cats seemed fine as compared to your fathers.  O2's they play a large role in determining fuel 'type'.  are you 100% certain the dealer really replaced the o2's  and did they do the fronts AND back ?
Uh the dealer hasnt touched anything on the truck other then the reprogramming. Everything thats been swapped/changed was done by me so the o2s are the originals. Ill pull them this weekend to take a look and clean them. Plenty tanks of fuel have been ran through since the beginning of this so i dont foresee it being bad fuel either.

Sorry on the parts touching ;) .. I remember now that you did the hardware.  In my head cleaning my help,  but if the tips are embedded with debris or the voltage coming out of them is out of range the ECU may still be doing the unusual adjustments.  Im still a bit perplexed with the throttle actual behavior but the OAR sinking like a rock is all we have to go on :/
Its all good and again i greatly appreciate all the help.  Maybe the water indigestion and misfire caused the o2s to get out of sync i dont know. I really wish it would throw a code. It would make me feel alot better if the truck knew there was a problem going on. I did try my dads throttle body awhile back thinking maybe a throttle position sensor issue, but of course it didnt change anything.

TopherSho

2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

Defhd10

Decided im not going to touch the o2s. Atleast not yet. Im not getting any codes associated with them like i should if they were a problem, and i dont want to ruin them by attempting to clean. To the point now im going to run it until it throws a code or a rod. Really dont care at this point. Ive wasted so much time and money and not one single thing i do makes any bit of improvement.  Really appreciate all the help guys, but ive pretty much given up. If i knew what it was i wouldnt have a problem spending the money to fix it, but im done wasting my money on the things that wont fix it.

TopherSho

I'd be very careful tossing a rod,  if the dealership/ford network/warranty-company has you marked down as 'modified' they will not honor a engine rebuild.  I ran into that with my Bad injector taking my block out.  I had to pay out of pocket.

Understand the frustration though...
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

SM105K

#100
The Dealership did it.  It most likely corrupted the ECU with the new flash. 
"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |

Defhd10

Quote from: TopherSho on March 30, 2020, 10:58:36 AM
I'd be very careful tossing a rod,  if the dealership/ford network/warranty-company has you marked down as 'modified' they will not honor a engine rebuild.  I ran into that with my Bad injector taking my block out.  I had to pay out of pocket.

Understand the frustration though...
Im already out of warranty, so nothing really to lose at this point.

Defhd10

Quote from: SM105K on March 30, 2020, 12:42:25 PM
The Dealership did it.  It most likely corrupted the ECU with the new flash.
I would like to believe this is true, but i really dont know. I had too many things happen at once for me to point it directly at the flash. Im mostly leaning towards the condensation causing the problem. I cant confirm 100% what the boost was directly after the misfire because i was stock tuned and wasnt paying any attention. As soon as i got the tune back on is when i noticed the problem. And when switching back to stock i noticed it was still present because i was paying attention to it. Granted this was after the dealer flash, but i still cant confirm thats what caused it.

Defhd10

Curiosity got the best of me today so i pulled my o2 sensors as well as dropping the downpipe to take a look at the back side of the turbos. The o2 sensors look fine. Driver side looks the same as the passenger side. The back side of the turbos look fine too. I was really hoping to find a wore out wastegate, but of course i didnt. Both are seated when closed and no play when open. With that said i feel like ive explored all my options at this point.

Does anyone know why i would have erratic OAR like Topher pointed out?  Ive fuelled from a different station that i normally do that past 2 fillups and used 93 octane rather then 89. I will say that the truck does feel like its running a bit smoother on the 93, but still having the boost limited to 7 lbs. Im trying not to give up on this thing, but the end is near.

Defhd10

Okay guys the truck finally threw 2 codes tonight. Both related to throttle position voltage to low. Now i had tried a throttle body in the past with no change, do you think it could be the accelerator pedal?