Wanted to share this as i did my setup a little different than i've seen thus far(Think everybody's setup is a little unique at least). This is in no way meant to be a "how-to" or writeup as it's been overdone already . . . just putting it out their in case someone attempting install wants to replicate the setup. I recommend reading all the How-to's to get familiar with all the different mounting/routing options.
Jimi-Jak thread (this is actually his can i purchased used,thanks JJ!)
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,2536.0.html
MiWiAu thread -This was a great solution for a vacuum source without drilling,just use BOV with PCV elbow. Also provides a handy diagram for transverse applications.I followed it directly
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6716.0.html

Glock-coma also had a nice install of a monster can on driver's side fender on a SHO (reference Jim-Jak's thread post #75). This option was in my back pocket if the pass. side didn't work out.
To re-iterate i installed the STANDARD can in the passenger side and it was tight, no way a monster can would fit in the spot i put mine.

Anyway, thanks to all the members who posted info about this OCC-it was extremely helpful!


Goals for my install:
Mount can in passenger side front bumper-I wanted as little hose running around the car as possible and majority of the OEM fittings are pass. side so this made sense to me.

Keep an option to remove the RX Clean side separator/oil cap and replace OEM oil cap and clean side line for dealer visits.

As little drilling as possible- mainly i didn't want to drill the rear turbo charge pipe. I was ok doing the airbox but still made efforts to make that discreet and retain an OEM look when i remove the barb fitting and have the factory clean side fittings on to take it in for warranty work.

Find a convenient drain location and easy to use(as in i can drain it without raising the car) valve that wasn't bulky or heavy. I didn't want to use the big heavy copper valves i had seen used before and the location didn't provide a lot of clearance for fittings/adapters etc. I was very happy with how the drain setup worked out.

1st location fitting- Found this existing bolt on the front bumper support. I had to ream out the bracket hole just a bit to get it to fully seat against the bumper stud and also had to drill a new hole in the RX bracket(above the sliding section) to get the can positioned just the way i wanted. Overall finding the location was pretty easy. This pic is before i drilled the additional hole for the can


Installed with 8mm nut


Ended up cutting a small triangular tab from the washer res. it was rubbing up on the can just a little.You can barely see the nub from it in this pic towards the top of the can


Next was figuring out the drain setup. I used this barbed drain fitting i got from an RV store in town. I was stoked to find this thing in town! it worked flawlessly.Just hoping it stays out of harms way whe i'm driving around in a foot of snow.




On to drilling the airbox for CSS hose.I used a 3/8" barb fitting with 3/8" grommet instead of threaded fitting provided in the kit. Just looked a little cleaner than a threaded/barb fitting



Can't see it from the top when installed without the barb


Then just routing the lines from can according to the diagram.

From OEM ports down to can




And single hose for charge pipes over to driver side T fitting


T fitting under T stat housing. I will cap off the front fitting when i want to re-install the factory Clean side tube and oil cap.


and rear BOV connection up to T


Then front OEM fitting for 2nd vacuum source under boost


And link with more pics
http://s749.photobucket.com/user/04nutzer/slideshow/
That's all i got! After running around and getting all the parts and fittings the install really didn't take long. Happy my big assed b*tch is breathin a little better now!

Detailed and informative, bravo!  Should at least tack on a mention in JJs thread.

Quote from: SHOdded on January 27, 2017, 10:53:55 PM
Detailed and informative, bravo!  Should at least tack on a mention in JJs thread.

see you did me that favor. thanks!


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Excellent writeup indeed and keep us updated on the end results.  Z 

Nice work!


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Nice job, looks like there's plenty of room in the passenger side too.
One note, I would watch the long term durability of that clear drain hose and shutoff valve. Neither of which look like they'd rated for Oil/gas.

Quote from: glock-coma on January 28, 2017, 09:35:53 AM
Nice job, looks like there's plenty of room in the passenger side too.
One note, I would watch the long term durability of that clear drain hose and shutoff valve. Neither of which look like they'd rated for
Oil/gas.

absolutely. i knew that when installing. i think the valve should be fine, or if i have to replace the $5 part every year or so i'm fine with that. and the clear hose is temporary just so i can see what i'm catching and develop a drain interval pattern. im also temporarily using clear hose on the CSS as well to see if i get any oil pushing out towards the air box. if i see any accumulation i'll put a check valve in line and replace the clear piece.


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Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on January 28, 2017, 09:42:19 AM

Quote from: glock-coma on January 28, 2017, 09:35:53 AM
Nice job, looks like there's plenty of room in the passenger side too.
One note, I would watch the long term durability of that clear drain hose and shutoff valve. Neither of which look like they'd rated for
Oil/gas.

absolutely. i knew that when installing. i think the valve should be fine, or if i have to replace the $5 part every year or so i'm fine with that. and the clear hose is temporary just so i can see what i'm catching and develop a drain interval pattern. im also temporarily using clear hose on the CSS as well to see if i get any oil pushing out towards the air box. if i see any accumulation i'll put a check valve in line and replace the clear piece.


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Great idea then,  especially on the css.

Thanks for the write up, I just ordered a  can fro McNally yesterday. One question to you and the membership. When I contacted McNally about which can was recommended for my 13 SHO they said not to go with the Clean Side Separator but it looks like damn near everyone's sig line that shows the RX can also shows the CSS used. Thoughts?

Quote from: 6500rpm on January 28, 2017, 12:03:37 PM
Thanks for the write up, I just ordered a  can fro McNally yesterday. One question to you and the membership. When I contacted McNally about which can was recommended for my 13 SHO they said not to go with the Clean Side Separator but it looks like damn near everyone's sig line that shows the RX can also shows the CSS used. Thoughts?

IMO, removing the valve cover to intake piping connection removes any chance of oil being sucked into the intake when under boost.

Did they give a reason why the CSS is not recommended for your application?


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This was the response on the CSS.

"With a 3.5L you should be able to get by with a regular size catch can. I imagine with the engine bay finding room for the catch can will be a problem so a regular will be better that a monster size.
As to the Clean Side Separator I would suggest waiting on that purchase. I personally would not get one. The CSS works on the air flow and with a twin turbo the air flow may be too much for a Clean Side Separator. Again, just my opinion. A CSS is not needed for the Catch Can operation. It is just an optional purchase. Some will say that they are needed and they are not. It is just an additional way to filter blow by. Has nothing to do with the actual Catch Can operational.
For model numbers:
MI1028-9 This is just the catch can and comes with all you need for installation."

Very interested in your results Colorado-SHOBro.  By choosing the can location that you did, it may give the air some additional time to cool down and reduce the velocity giving it a better chance to condense and catch the vapors.

Quote from: 6500rpm on January 28, 2017, 06:13:27 PM
This was the response on the CSS.

"With a 3.5L you should be able to get by with a regular size catch can. I imagine with the engine bay finding room for the catch can will be a problem so a regular will be better that a monster size.
As to the Clean Side Separator I would suggest waiting on that purchase. I personally would not get one. The CSS works on the air flow and with a twin turbo the air flow may be too much for a Clean Side Separator. Again, just my opinion. A CSS is not needed for the Catch Can operation. It is just an optional purchase. Some will say that they are needed and they are not. It is just an additional way to filter blow by. Has nothing to do with the actual Catch Can operational.
For model numbers:
MI1028-9 This is just the catch can and comes with all you need for installation."

Very interested in your results Colorado-SHOBro.  By choosing the can location that you did, it may give the air some additional time to cool down and reduce the velocity giving it a better chance to condense and catch the vapors.

ill keep posting my results. 1st day of install i just installed the dirty side lines+can+ only ONE vacuum source(being the rear BOV port). so basically the setup i would have going to the dealer with factory clean side hose and factory oil cap. i then drove maybe 80ish miles and removed cap from the bottom of the can and this came out. it was almost all water it seemed


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also regarding the css operation- rx moves the fresh air source to the air box so because it's a lower source of vacuum and wouldn't overpower vacuum to the can.


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Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on January 28, 2017, 07:24:42 PM
also regarding the css operation- rx moves the fresh air source to the air box so because it's a lower source of vacuum and wouldn't overpower vacuum to the can.


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Correct. Although, I vented my CSS to atmosphere and used a press on breather filter. I didn't want to drill my air box lid.


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