• Welcome to Ecoboost Performance Forum. Please log in or sign up.
collapse

Disappointing Power

Started by POPSTAGE2, April 22, 2014, 09:23:16 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

JimiJak

Quote from: REDSHOCGO on April 24, 2014, 08:00:14 PM
Is it possible you may have created a boost leak with the can installation?

I would still love to see a pic of your can install. The more we dig into this, the more I wonder if you tapped the charge pipes instead of the intake pipes...
Although...if the check valves are still intact in that line, you shouldn't be loosing any turbo pressure...not to mention I would be very surprised if the fitting would hold on with 15 pounds of pressure.

Still though...unless it's just a red herring, the OCC set up needs examined even if just to rule it out.

Any chance you can get a picture up soon?
"America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, badass speed." - Eleanor Roosevelt

2014 XSport Black Betty Build

explorergotoluvit

i have a 2013 xsport and it has tons for toque steer and i actually hate it.. its the worst thing about the car if your not holding on with 2 hands it can get away from ya
2013 explorer sport
LMS tuner stat 160 3 bar magna flow v8 91 map
k&n H&R spring
retrofit FXR bi-xenon projectors done by lightwerkz 
all lights replaced with leds from daytimebrightlites

JimiJak

Quote from: explorergotoluvit on April 24, 2014, 10:11:52 PM
i have a 2013 xsport and it has tons for toque steer and i actually hate it.. its the worst thing about the car if your not holding on with 2 hands it can get away from ya

LOL ^^^

True story!
Although, I may not like the TQ steer...I love what comes with it...TORQUE!!
"America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, badass speed." - Eleanor Roosevelt

2014 XSport Black Betty Build

explorergotoluvit

dont see y it can't be full time awd then this 2wd until slipage i guess im use to one of the best awd  subaru
2013 explorer sport
LMS tuner stat 160 3 bar magna flow v8 91 map
k&n H&R spring
retrofit FXR bi-xenon projectors done by lightwerkz 
all lights replaced with leds from daytimebrightlites

POPSTAGE2

Quote from: JimiJak on April 24, 2014, 09:35:48 PM
Quote from: REDSHOCGO on April 24, 2014, 08:00:14 PM
Is it possible you may have created a boost leak with the can installation?

I would still love to see a pic of your can install. The more we dig into this, the more I wonder if you tapped the charge pipes instead of the intake pipes...
Although...if the check valves are still intact in that line, you shouldn't be loosing any turbo pressure...not to mention I would be very surprised if the fitting would hold on with 15 pounds of pressure.

Still though...unless it's just a red herring, the OCC set up needs examined even if just to rule it out.

Any chance you can get a picture up soon?

I'll get you a picture.
But I tapped into the rear intake pipe maybe 5 to 7 inches after the "Y".
I used the factory nipple on the front pipe that was originally connected to the front valve cover.

BigMac- I think maybe you're right but would like to figure this out myself if I could. Going to order the Aeroforce boost gauge unless yous guys :icon_lol:(I'm from wisconsin) think there's something better?

Again, thanks for the help!
99 500HP LIGHTNING
03 SD 6.0
14 EXPLORER SPORT
AND A WHOLE LOT OF OTHER MUSCLE / DRAG CARS

Needmoreboost

One simple and small boost leak can cause a milleu of problems and is very hard (without boost leak tester) to find.  I chased them a lot in my SRT4 until I went to tbar clamps.  Then again they were metal pipes not the plastic ones we have.  Wont work on ecoboost until you convert the hot and cold side pipes.
2014 Mustang GT/CS: white
Auto with custom Unleashed Tuning
Past honorable mentions: 13 SHO, 08 SRT4, 07 350Z, 03 Cobra, 03 Focus SVT, 00 GT Mustang, 91 LX Notch, etc.

BiGMaC

Quote from: Needmoreboost on April 25, 2014, 10:05:43 AM
One simple and small boost leak can cause a milleu of problems and is very hard (without boost leak tester) to find.  I chased them a lot in my SRT4 until I went to tbar clamps.  Then again they were metal pipes not the plastic ones we have.  Wont work on ecoboost until you convert the hot and cold side pipes.

The absolute truth, however uncommon!   Just why I spent the $ for hard hotpipes!...

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

POPSTAGE2

#37
This first couple of pictures you can see the charge? pipe hose sits about a 1/2" from going on the whole way...I loosened the clamp (clamp was kinda loose) and slid the hose on all the way tighted, then took it out for a beat. About the same power. This picure is after the short drive...the hose slid back off from bottoming. Thinking this is normal as when the clamp is against the "barb" it will seal from pressure.
Sorry for the dark pics...was in a hurry this morning to get to work...







99 500HP LIGHTNING
03 SD 6.0
14 EXPLORER SPORT
AND A WHOLE LOT OF OTHER MUSCLE / DRAG CARS

BiGMaC

The movement of the hose will always be there... the lower end of the hose is fixed to the stationary IC inlet and the hard charge pipe is secured to the manifold and moves 2-3 inches forward and back when the engine is revved.

If you have a boost leak it will take a R&R of each connectino and a check of the seal and function of the BoVs.... usually not a simple or quick thing...


•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

JimiJak

Quote from: POPSTAGE2 on April 26, 2014, 01:58:43 PM
This first couple of pictures you can see the charge? pipe hose sits about a 1/2" from going on the whole way...I loosened the clamp (clamp was kinda loose) and slid the hose on all the way tighted, then took it out for a beat. About the same power. This picure is after the short drive...the hose slid back off from bottoming. Thinking this is normal as when the clamp is against the "barb" it will seal from pressure.
Sorry for the dark pics...was in a hurry this morning to get to work...

Thanks for the pics. After work, would it be possible to get more pics of your Rx connections? Just want to rule that out before moving forward...
"America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, badass speed." - Eleanor Roosevelt

2014 XSport Black Betty Build

POPSTAGE2

Ok JimiJak, had some time to take pics.
First pic is showing the oil that is always there everytime I take the RX breather off...anyone else have this issue?



Here's the install with engine cover on. Made my own brackets to do this. It's tite but does fit without touching anything. Scratches on can is from removeing, installing cover.



Clean side install from breather cap to air box thanks to JimiJAK!



Cose up of can.





Pic of PCV valve connection which goes to center nipple on the can. And Manifold vacuum connection which goes to "AN" fitting on the can.



And back intake connection which tee's into front intake where the original nipple was necked down and used. That going into other side "AN" fitting on can. Not shown (forgot to take photo) is the capped off front valve cover nipple that went to the front intake.





99 500HP LIGHTNING
03 SD 6.0
14 EXPLORER SPORT
AND A WHOLE LOT OF OTHER MUSCLE / DRAG CARS

JimiJak

Also, with the exception of not being able to see your anterior air intake vac barb (which would be pretty hard to mess up), it looks like everything's in the right spot...
Thank you for the pics. I'm going to say we can probably cross OCC Install off the list of possible contributors to your lack of power.

Any more info regarding behavior? have you noticed a pattern yet? Is it always underpowered, or have there been times where it seems to wake up? How does it sound? Idle? WOT? etc...
"America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, badass speed." - Eleanor Roosevelt

2014 XSport Black Betty Build

crash712us

I suggest hooking up a vacuum gauge. This can say lot about your poor performance. These engines idle with 20-22 inches a of vacuum. If yours shows less it may guide you on where to look.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2011 tuxedo black non pp, LMS stage 5, Corsa cat back, LMS down pipes, Airaid, Alky control meth injection, Megan Racing coil overs, EBC rotor&pads, Mobsteel grill, 2013 trans cooler. 403whp 417wtq 12.25 @ 110

POPSTAGE2

Thanks for the responses!
I will look at that o-ring today and also put a vacuum gauge on it.
No changes in power or in anything. It has good low rpm power, but at about anything more than 2/3 throttle or above 4,000 rpm it doesn't pick up any more power... it just lays flat like it loses boost. No misses, no odd sounds, actually it's very quiet when just cruising.
99 500HP LIGHTNING
03 SD 6.0
14 EXPLORER SPORT
AND A WHOLE LOT OF OTHER MUSCLE / DRAG CARS

Larrylu

Your symptom description sounds too similar to my experience to not mention.  My symptoms were acceleration going flat at the top of the gear. There was carryover into the next gear.  Before going into the dealership, I also noticed a sound coinciding with the performance flattening that sounded like a belt squeal.   The dealership duplicated the symptoms and claimed that the car thew a code for them. They explained that (their words) I had a vacuum leak at the high pressure fuel pump sensor, which caused an over boost condition. I'm thinking that the car pulled timing to protect itself. They told me that Ford did not use a clamp on the site of my leak. What they did was to trim the hose and add a clamp. Problem has not reoccurred and the car pulls strong to the top of gear and seems to leap as it hits the next gear. In normal driving I was unaware of the slowly developing issue. This may not be related to your problem but I could not help but see a similarity in your description of symptoms. Good luck finding your problem!


2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP
2010 Loaded, Non PP, Steel Blue Metallic, Livernois Stage 4+, Blacked out grill, Nexus 7 Tablet running Torque Pro