P0020 error code when Check Engine Light diag is run ('12 SHO with LMS tune)

[halo3kbb]

The car most likely has a mechanical issue that is causing the cam sensor code.  The car could have a sensor / wiring issue, or it may actually be doing it's job by reporting something is off.  There is a legitimate timing chain stretch issue on the EcoBoost 3.5 that could cause similar issues or codes.  Guys that change their oil for instance every 8-10,000 miles would be more susceptible to this versus those that change oil religiously at 3k every time.  Not saying this is the case with your vehicle what so ever just to be clear.  But there is proof of this happening on vehicles that were not maintained as well as the next that could lead to further issues later on in life. 

Thank you LMS - I do fall into the category of religiously changing my oil every 8-10k.   

Had I known that running the tune suggested that I should change it more often, I would have done so.  I never heard any grief from my oil changes (done at the dealer) being over worn so I assumed life was good.  Apparently, maybe not.

What would LMS charge to diag my car out to find the root cause of my problem?  I live in Canton so it's not that bad of a drive for me to have professionals who know the car inside/out to troubleshoot this for me.

Thanks,

Halo3kbb

[ZSHO]

I would personally change the oil as mentioned yesterday,didnt mean to sound harsh on you,and after that try clearing the codes and see how fast they return and proceed from there.BTW any kind of oil leaks inside the engine bay?. Z

[BlackSho]

I had this problem for 2 years (2013) since 4,000 miles. The dealer I kept taking it too had no idea what was going on and after the second solenoid they changed had to contact Ford for help and unless they was blowing smoke Ford had no idea either so after 33,000 miles of clearing it, (because it only should come back after you restart the car) I tried another dealer and it took the mechanic 15 minutes to locate the problem. The wiring runs under the radiator and underneath the battery box where he mentioned the wire was smashed. I have the extended warranty so I can't tell you how much but it didn't take him a full hour. It's definitely not the tune.

[SHOdded]

Welcome to EBPF, BlackSho, and thanks for the insight

[SHOnUup]

The car most likely has a mechanical issue that is causing the cam sensor code.  The car could have a sensor / wiring issue, or it may actually be doing it's job by reporting something is off.  There is a legitimate timing chain stretch issue on the EcoBoost 3.5 that could cause similar issues or codes.  Guys that change their oil for instance every 8-10,000 miles would be more susceptible to this versus those that change oil religiously at 3k every time.  Not saying this is the case with your vehicle what so ever just to be clear.  But there is proof of this happening on vehicles that were not maintained as well as the next that could lead to further issues later on in life.

Could you expound on this?

How does oil play a factor in the timing chain stretch issue?

I ask because I'm testing some extended drain interval custom oil.

If This oil performs as well at 10K as oem at 3K is there still an issue?

I'm betting it's fuel dilution...ecoboost struggles

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[halo3kbb]

I had this problem for 2 years (2013) since 4,000 miles. The dealer I kept taking it too had no idea what was going on and after the second solenoid they changed had to contact Ford for help and unless they was blowing smoke Ford had no idea either so after 33,000 miles of clearing it, (because it only should come back after you restart the car) I tried another dealer and it took the mechanic 15 minutes to locate the problem. The wiring runs under the radiator and underneath the battery box where he mentioned the wire was smashed. I have the extended warranty so I can't tell you how much but it didn't take him a full hour. It's definitely not the tune.

So, "wiring runs under the radatior"  -  This sounds like there might be a chance I know of an incident where I may have gone off-road with the Taurus and maybe I bumped/rubbed more than just the engine bay plastic shield off the car.  I'm going to get the car up on jacks this weeekend and look under the radiator to see if I caused any more damage than what I originally thought.

Thanks for this information!  It's a good place to look!

[halo3kbb]

I would personally change the oil as mentioned yesterday,didnt mean to sound harsh on you,and after that try clearing the codes and see how fast they return and proceed from there.BTW any kind of oil leaks inside the engine bay?. Z

Hey Z - I don't think you sounded harsh at all.  We're good.

I did change oil just 1,500 miles ago, so I'm relitively new on oil.  As mentioned above, I'm going to be looking for some chaffed/rubbed/cut wires under the radiator to the battery box this weekend anyway, so I'll do the clearing as well at that time.  PS -  Since I posted this, the light hasn't come back on yet, and I really haven't noticed it running rough.  Got to love intermittent problems!

[halo3kbb]

I would personally change the oil as mentioned yesterday,didnt mean to sound harsh on you,and after that try clearing the codes and see how fast they return and proceed from there.BTW any kind of oil leaks inside the engine bay?. Z

Also, no visable oil leaks in the engine bay.  Everything looks good/intact.

[ZSHO]

I personally have a set of rhino ramps that really come in handy when going underneath the car,definetly check for any broken/frayed wires leading to the sensor,could possibly be a wiring short/fault in the sensor/solenoid,also while your under there try cleaning any harness/connector with some electronic cleaner as mentioned a while ago,overtime dirt/oil buildup forms and can cause those annoying intermitent issues,check to see if any wires are rubbing against the engine block,heat exposure can cause many unexpected issues to arise. Z

[ZSHO]

I was curious when and who installed your trans cooler?  Z

[halo3kbb]

I was curious when and who installed your trans cooler?  Z

I'd have to look back through my receipts to know the exact date/mileage but the 2013 came stock with it and many folks on this or another very good forum were doing this upgrade.  Since I was just coming off a 2006 Mustang GT that was burning up transmissions, I thought it best to help protect the transmission by instaling the cooler. I bought all the parts from Livernois (LMS) and had a buddy of mine follow the details instructions left by other forum members on how to install it.  I've never had a lick of problem with it.  Best guess, it was installed in the summer of '13 at approx 24,000 miles.

[Livernois Motorsports]

The car most likely has a mechanical issue that is causing the cam sensor code.  The car could have a sensor / wiring issue, or it may actually be doing it's job by reporting something is off.  There is a legitimate timing chain stretch issue on the EcoBoost 3.5 that could cause similar issues or codes.  Guys that change their oil for instance every 8-10,000 miles would be more susceptible to this versus those that change oil religiously at 3k every time.  Not saying this is the case with your vehicle what so ever just to be clear.  But there is proof of this happening on vehicles that were not maintained as well as the next that could lead to further issues later on in life. 

Thank you LMS - I do fall into the category of religiously changing my oil every 8-10k.   

Had I known that running the tune suggested that I should change it more often, I would have done so.  I never heard any grief from my oil changes (done at the dealer) being over worn so I assumed life was good.  Apparently, maybe not.

What would LMS charge to diag my car out to find the root cause of my problem?  I live in Canton so it's not that bad of a drive for me to have professionals who know the car inside/out to troubleshoot this for me.

Thanks,

Halo3kbb

You are very welcome!

I would have to get you in touch with the guys over in vehicle installation for pricing and availability on bringing a vehicle in to the shop.  The best way to reach them is by phone @ 313-561-5500 ext 123.  If you reach a voicemail be sure to leave a message.

[BlackSho]

Halo3kbb, this is exactly what he stated on my in voice. Checked DTC'S P0020, PPT HK-HKG checked voltage At C1452 non present. Checked fuse F67 in bjb ok, found circuit cbk 02 open between bjb vct 21. Traced wires found GN wire rubbed through by / near upper radiator hose. Repaired wire cleared DTC'S and performed self test passed. 1 WT* KIT- Terminal $12.66.

[ZSHO]

Halo3kbb, this is exactly what he stated on my in voice. Checked DTC'S P0020, PPT HK-HKG checked voltage At C1452 non present. Checked fuse F67 in bjb ok, found circuit cbk 02 open between bjb vct 21. Traced wires found GN wire rubbed through by / near upper radiator hose. Repaired wire cleared DTC'S and performed self test passed. 1 WT* KIT- Terminal $12.66.

Thats great to know,so the (black ground)wire was rubbing on/against the upper radiator hose which caused the fraying of such wire,sounds like the heat exposure caused the erratic issues. Z

[halo3kbb]

Halo3kbb, this is exactly what he stated on my in voice. Checked DTC'S P0020, PPT HK-HKG checked voltage At C1452 non present. Checked fuse F67 in bjb ok, found circuit cbk 02 open between bjb vct 21. Traced wires found GN wire rubbed through by / near upper radiator hose. Repaired wire cleared DTC'S and performed self test passed. 1 WT* KIT- Terminal $12.66.

Black SHO-  Thanks for the detailed information.  With as many miles as my SHO has on it, and the impending steering/suspension parts I know are coming, I'm just going to trade this in for a different problem.  I'm getting another ecoboost, a Fusion.  I'm going to miss very much the power the SHO has, but it's really the best thing for me, in my particular situation/financially.  Thanks everyone for all their help.